Ice climbing competitions are rapidly gaining popularity among North and Eastern European youths. In the image, Russian Maria Shabalina in Val Daone World Championship, continuing a family tradition: Her proud dad is Pavel Shabalin (summiteer of Everest via the central North face, Khan Tengri alpine style, etc.).
Val Daone inhabitants and frequent visitors are used to the ice-climbing show every winter. In the image Mauro 'Bubu' Bole - a veteran of the event - changing big wall climbing for artificial ice frames: A chance to try 'Vertical Limit'-like jumps (click to enlarge).
Competitions can be held anytime, anywhere, as long as it is cold enough. In the image, double world-champion Harald Berger, from Austria (click to enlarge).
Competitors perform on specially-designed ice-axes and boots (with non-detachable crampons and heel-hooks). Wrist-lashes are forbidden. In the image, female champion Ines Papert, from Germany (click to enlarge).
Over the years, route designers and engineers have built more and more difficult routes, with shapes impossible to find in ‘natural’ ice-falls. Itineraries include overhanging dry-tooling sections, roofs, hanging chunks of ice, etc. (Click to enlarge).
Basically, what ice-climbing competitions require is a cold place where organizers can build a frame covered with pipes (or some very large icicles) that allow drops of water coming off them to immediately freeze. This creates an ideal 'ice wall' (obviously not always smooth) which can be climbed by any participant armed with a couple of specialized ice-axes and crampons, not to mention some really strong legs. All images by Giulio Malfer, courtesy of Val Daone Ice Master 2005 (click to enlarge).
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Ice-climbing world cup is back: Maria Shabalina and peers for the 2006 stages
Posted: Dec 07, 2005 10:20 am EST
(MountEverest.net) Maria Shabalina is double-Champion of Russia and winner of numerous World cup tournaments in ice-climbing. Sport ice-climbing is a relatively new phenomenon, but it is rapidly gaining popularity, especially in Northern and Eastern Europe – as evidenced by next year's host towns.
Basically, what ice-climbing competitions require is a cold place where organizers can build a frame covered with pipes (or some very large icicles) that allow drops of water coming off them to immediately freeze. This creates an ideal 'ice wall' (obvious not always smooth) which can be climbed by any participant armed with a couple of specialized ice-axes and crampons, not to mention some really strong legs.
The wall can be set up in virtually any outdoor location, as long as it is cold enough. The main square of a town, for example, can prove to be an attractive venue for spectators and sponsors alike. For instance in Kirov (Siberia), ice climbing competitions have been sometimes set on a four storey building with a broken pipe on the upper floor, resulting in an amazing ice-fall reaching all the way down to the ground.
Czech Republic, Romania and Norway
The Switzerland-based UIAA (International Union of Alpinism Associations) has taken charge of the official Ice Climbing World competitions. After two years of putting all the best sports ice-climbers in one single championship, the tournament will now revert back to its original 'World Cup' form, with several stages.
In addition to Val Daone and Saas Fee (whose inhabitants have grown used to enjoy the show every winter), some relatively unknown places will be hosting some of the 2006 World Cup competitions including Špièák, Czech Republic (27-28 January), Busteni, Romania (10-11 February), as well as Hemsedal, Norway, (4-5 March), where and the final tournament will be held.
'Don't try this at home'
Over the years, wall designers/engineers have built more and more difficult routes, with shapes that are virtually impossible to find on ‘natural’ ice-falls. The new itineraries include overhanging dry-tooling sections, roofs, hanging chunks of ice, etc. Sport ice climbers use technical ice-axes (no leashes, of course), and specific boots with crampons and heel-hooks fixed on them. The main categories are difficulty and speed; however, last year in Val Daone, a new discipline was inaugurated: Ice-bouldering.
Climbers perform belayed in top-rope, thus able to risk the most difficult dynamics, and the coolest jumps and moves. In fact, the first competitors were ‘natural’ ice-climbers, but the newest generation currently consists of young rock-climbers, who have found the perfect sport for training during winter months. Favorites for the upcoming season are Austrian Harald Berger, for the men's competition, and German Ines Papert for the female. Both Berger and Papert were winners of last year’s world championship. However, many have their eye on some young spurs from Eastern Europe.
Calendar of UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup 2006:
1. Val Daone, Italy, 19-22 January 2006
2. Špièák, Czech Republic, 27-28 January 2006
3. Saas Fee, Switzerland, 4-5 February 2006
4. Busteni, Romania, 10-11 February 2006
5. Hemsedal, Norway, 4-5 March 2006.
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