Posted: Dec 16, 2005 09:29 pm EST
It was all about greed last week, when the ExplorersWeb Oxygen series kicked off. The subject is acute, and mails continued to pour in even as we ran the first parts of the series. The Christmas spirit was saved by Kashmir and Pakistan, where the hands-on aid work continues. And another big adventure is up: When you sit down to your Christmas dinner this year - two birdmen might be soaring 10,000 meters in the sky.

ExWeb Special: Oxygen on Everest - The highest death lab in the world Imagine you were to dive into the deepest ocean on Earth: Would have your scuba tanks filled and managed by a convicted drug dealer? Well, something similar to this situation has been and is still happening on Mount Everest. And although ExplorersWeb has posted a number of stories on the problem since we ran the series about Henry Todd in 2003, other players have emerged – and more climbers have died. Check part 1 in the series about the shady business and why people die to greed rather than altitude on the mountain.

ExWeb Special: Oxygen on Everest - The highest death lab in the world, part 2 "Criminal negligence," accuses a climber. Summit Oxygen are hard to reach these days. One owner/employee has left without a trace and the security deposits have been used as working capital for the company. With at least 80% failure rate it seems that Summit Oxygen has no intention whatsoever to take responsibility for the financial loss and potential disaster they could have caused by marketing oxygen without a proven record at altitude. Climbers say that not only does the company refuse to return deposits - they don't even return e-mails.

"On arrival back here the equipment was inspected and tested and all worked fine. To that end we are not in a position to offer compensation to clients who feel damaged by a situation that cannot be verified. I am, however, prepared to offer you a substantial discount if in the future you decide to use our equipment again," was the founder's final word to a complaint.

ExWeb Special: Oxygen on Everest - The highest death lab in the world, part 3 A look at the history of nasal demand and close circuit (chemical) systems are featured in part 3. "The theoretical reasons for using a closed-circuit system seem obvious: instead of reducing the effective altitude by a few thousand feet, closed-circuit oxygen puts you back to sea level. However, purists have agitated against its use often on ideological grounds. Their claim is that open-circuit systems are cheating enough; closed-circuit would be beyond the pale. Some physiologists (e.g., Dr. West) feel that actual performance gains with closed-circuit oxygen would not be realized because of the effect of acclimatization--but none have actually tested that hypothesis," writes Tom Holzel, who tried the system on Everest in 1986 when searching for Mallory's camera.

Jean Christophe Lafaille airlifted to Makalu's BC Lafaille reached Makalu’s BC on Monday, airlifted to the base of Makalu by a chopper. Jean-Christophe, along with a cook and two kitchen helpers were left at 4800m. There is no report on the climber acclimatizing previous to the flight to BC.Makalu’s conditions are extremely dry: There is no snow in BC and the mountain faces show a great deal of grey rock. Lafaille is attempting not only Makalu’s first winter ascent, but also his 12th 8000er.

Birdmen Angelo and Richard: Over Everest back together on Aconcagua “Birdman” Angelo d’Arrigo is in Argentina, preparing to beat some records. After an astonishing flight over Everest in a hang glider last year, the Italian now intends to follow the flight of condors over Aconcagua and reach even higher altitudes than on Everest - bringing an old friend for the trip. The current flights will take place over Christmas and New Year: “I plan to climb Aconcagua next week (from December 17, to December 24), and be ready to fly by the 26th of December. Whatever the exact flying date will be, I need to be done by January, 13 – that’s when my flying permit ends,” Angelo told ExWeb.

Panic in quake-affected areas: A new 6.7 tremor hits Afghanistan’s Hindu Kush A 6.7 magnitude earthquake hit northeastern Afghanistan last week. It was the strongest tremor to strike the area since the original October 8th quake (measuring 7.6 on the Richter scale), which destroyed large areas of Pakistan and Kashmir. The epicenter of the tremor was located on the Afghan side of Hindu-Kush, a scarcely populated area; however, the earth shook places as far away as Delhi and Islamabad. The tremor caused panic in the flattened cities of Balakot and Muzaffarabad, where people ran from the few houses still standing and tents provided by relief organizations. "People came out of their tents and started screaming and reciting verses from the Koran," a resident, told the AFP news agency. "The people living in buildings spared by the big quake were the most terrified."

Aftershock! - The North Face Team live from Kashmir The North Face team reported after experiencing the aftershock: “Around three this morning, I awoke with a start,” reports Cedar Wright. “The ground was shaking, and I immediately knew we were experiencing an aftershock. The experience was much like being on boat in high seas, and I waited nervously for the intensity to grow. It was with great relief that less than a minute later the tremor subsided, and I slipped back into a restless sleep unsure it the experience had been but a vivid dream. As it turns out, the aftershock was one of the largest since the quake. In some areas rock falls were triggered.”

”One child that we encountered had suffered a broken femur when his house collapsed on top of him. Tragically the bone had not set properly, which if it is not addressed soon, could leave the child crippled for life. We have put a plan in motion to move the child to Srinagar, where the leg can be re-broken, and then set correctly. Each day brings its trials and rewards, but undoubtedly my experience in Kashmir will never be forgotten.”

Pakistan quake update - Alpinclub Sachsen 3rd team OK: "Not an aftershock, but a new earthquake altogether"
Reported Jens Sommerfeld. "I couldn’t sleep – somehow, I knew something was going to happen. And it did. At about three in the morning, the earth started shaking. At first it was a light tremor. ‘Ah, another aftershock,’ I thought – I have had quite a lot of them. But then the tremor got stronger, and stronger; it was longer than any I have ever experienced (10-15 seconds). I jumped from the bed and went out to the balcony, ready to jump on to a neighboring flat roof. Cries filled the town and, in background, the roar of an avalanche: A land-slide. I saw lights falling downwards – that could only be a car which had been caught in the falling rock.”

Pakistan: ExWeb interview with Claude Nadon - a different expedition leader Canadian Claude (Claude-André) Nadon is an accomplished climber: He has summited Cho Oyu and Cerro Torre. In 2003 he attempted the Broad Peak-K2 double-header, and turned around 600 meters shy from the summit of Everest. Currently in Pakistan – Claude's goal is not to reach a summit, but to deliver over 8,000 shelter kits to isolated mountain communities in Northern Pakistan, right on the infamous Line of Control in quake-struck Muzzaffarabad. As it turned out, the logistics involved in distributing aid goods were not so different from the daily work of a large expedition leader on a 8000er. Claude came to Pakistan from Afghanistan: "We all lived and worked in the mountains, sleeping wherever it was possible: In our trucks, in mosques, etc. We used snowmobiles to reach the unreachable, heavy machinery to clear the roads, and hired over 5000 people for cash for work programs."

TNF Kashmir quake update: Beyond Western eyes - "an accomplishment that we are here at all" “We are very happy to report that the team has made it to Thangdar near the epicenter of the earthquake where about eighty percent of the houses were damaged,” reported The North Face aid team. “Thangdar will be our staging area for missions into the most inaccessible villages, where we will be moving supplies to those most in need, primarily widows and the elderly. It is truly an accomplishment that we are here at all considering that the last Western civilians to visit this area did so some fifty years ago. Exploring the unique mountain villages, and jeep trails, we truly have the feeling of being trailblazers.”

Adrian Flanagan Update While all ocean explorers face many of the same challenges: sea sickness, tropical storms, unbearable heat and sunburn to boast, one man; Adrian Flanagan, faces about 300 days of it. “It's getting unbearably hot here now. The heat confines me below decks most of the time. I am not wearing any clothes and even going on deck for pee and I am covered in sweat by the time I make it back below. I am like a rabbit coming out of its warren. A certain part of my body is still quite uncomfortable... I hate wearing sun block, that's the problem - makes me feel gooey and sticky like a melted chocolate bar still inside its wrapper.”

Crispin Latymer Update Still recovering from Tropical storm Delta which blew across the North Atlantic early last week, Crispin Latymer has been catching up on some much needed zz’s. “We have just gone under the 1,000 mile marker to Barbados. That also puts me exactly midway between my two closest points of land, Barbados and the Cape Verde Islands, 997 miles in either direction. This is the point at which I am furthest from land. Last night was pretty grim as the wind swung throughout the night and dropped to around 7 knots. Yet again I had another long night of rolling and rattling but short on sleep. The one discovery I did make at 04.22hrs and which frankly, at this stage, ranks right up there with the electric light bulb and the microchip was a dirty, single, simple wax earplug!” ”

Ocean rowers wrap-up Now past the two week mark in the Woodvale Atlantic Rowers Race, the teams, groups and singles alike seem to be getting their bearings about them. And although some of the independent trans-Atlantic explorers shared some fairly horrific stories, it appears that a little salt, wind and water can do wonders for the spirit - except, for Alex Bellini, that is: “It’s rainy and cold. Rough seas. Wind from the North about 4 knots. Miserable African winter!” he reports. “Another day cast away (no pun intended). Why must each good day always be followed by a bad one? This is beginning to annoy me, not mention grate on my nerves. What did they mean when they said “expert sea navigators” perhaps they could find a way out of the Atlantic? Or is that just another mirage like El Dorado. It started to rain, hard, that made today, the 14th, another day to cross off the calendar. So I crawled back into my cabin."

Spaniards reach South Poles of Inaccessibility - but where is Lenin? The Spanish Trans-Antarctic expedition reached not one, but two South Poles of Inaccessibility, yet Lenin is still nowhere in sight. Turned out the Spaniards are using a measure, provided by the British Antarctic Survey. According to the British, the 'first ' Pole of Inaccessibility at 82º 53’ 14’’S, 55º 4’, 30’’ E is considered the furthermost point from Antarctica’s coast line and accounts for only the continental firm-land surface. The 'second' Pole of Inaccessibility, at 83º50'37''S, 65º43'30'' E, is located 200km away towards the SE. Unlike the 'first' Pole, the 'second' accounts for both the continental land surface as well as the ice-shelves of Antarctica. The Russians stated the South Pole of Inaccessibility was located at 85°50S 65°47E. The Scott Polar Research Institute agrees with that location. The poor Spaniards must continue to 85 degrees, if they want to find Lenin. They are however, the first to reach the Brit's coordinates.

Alex Abramov's report from 2 nights in snow cave sans sleeping bags at Vinson: "Three days of heroism and drama" No matter where they go, Alex Abramov's expeditions are anything but boring. After crashing a Landrover on the slopes of Elbrus and being bombed by Maoists en route to Everest this spring, the super-chef might have thought he would have a quiet expedition on Mt. Vinson, the highest point of Antarctica. It was not to be. Check the report.

Craddock summited - lower than expected "We climbed Craddock!" reported Damien Gildea. “Steve and I had to wait out 3 days and 4 nights of bad weather at our exposed perch on the ridge at C1. But the 7th dawned beautifully and we set off in the afternoon once the sun hit. A bit of a slog, but not too cold or windy and we climbed about 1200m in just under 5hrs. Steve and I stepped onto the little summit at 8pm, taking care not to step off the huge 2500m south face beneath us. There are a few summits up there, all very similar in height, but we put the GPS on the highest rock summit, another nearby dome was a few meters higher but all snow (but we went over and climbed it anyway!). Just after we set up here at BC again, it started to snow. Then, during the night it stopped snowing, and the wind began to howl. The tent shakes like Apollo 13 re-entering the atmosphere and the noise is maddening. Antarctica, just like in the stories ...”

”But, we know this: Mount Craddock is no longer Antarctica's 4th highest mountain. Last night we submitted our data to AUSPOS via Iridium phone and got the answer back an hour later. Craddock was supposed to be 4650m. In fact, it is only 4368m - This puts it in 7th place! Moreover, the little snow peak Camilo and Manuel climbed north of Craddock, on the ridge to Vinson, is 4402m - higher than Craddock !”

Teams summit Vinson in great weather After successive outbursts of extremely bad weather, climbers who endured strong wind and far below cero temperatures were rewarded with “The most spectacular days you could ever imagine in Antarctica.” Team leaders seized the opportunity to launch their summit bids, with 100% success. “It was a tough day, but in the end we are all very happy,” Abramov said. “Victor Bobok and I stepped onto the highest point simultaneously, because we wanted to be - both - the third Russian climber to complete the Seven Summits. Soren Gudmann has established a new Seven Summits record: He has completed them all in the shortest period ever. Soren started by summiting Everest this year, on the first days of June, and has managed to summit all the other peaks before the end of 2005.” Alpine Ascents’ second Vinson team this season also reached the top. Irish Pat Falvey and Clare O'Leary also summited Vinson. Clare has thus become the first Irish woman to complete the 7 Summits challenge, and Pat is now the first Irishman to summit all Seven - twice (he finished the first 'round' back in 1997)!

Proyecto Cumbre: A sausage for prize “Snow conditions were improving through the day. As a result, we ended up having covered 22,1 km, our best distance by far. In addition, we are glad to announce, we’re already progressing at the 83rd degree. As a prize, we will have a sausage for dinner! reports the team doing the longest unsupported SP crossing this year.

New Mexico to get a new customer - Richard Branson New Mexico has plenty of sunshine and is fast emerging as the Star City of United States. The tourists don't come to sunbathe though. The approx 320 days of sunshine provide excellent weather - for Space launches. Latest in the row of Space costumers is Richard Branson who has chosen Roswell, New Mexico, as the launch site for his Virgin Galactic "space" rockets. New Mexico has a tradition of space history. It's the place for the UFO ‘Roswell Incident’ flying saucer crash of 1947, including alleged alien autopsies. Lately it's THE place for all kinds of Space events. New Mexico officially won the right to host the X PRIZE CUP in a national competition conducted by the X PRIZE Foundation in 2003, winning over Florida, California and Oklahoma. White Sands Space Harbor, New Mexico, was third in preference for Shuttle landing of STS-114 - the first Space Shuttle mission to fly since the loss of Columbia and the STS-107 crew. And a ground station in New Mexico was where Astronaut John Phillips recently transmitted his testimony from ISS. New Mexico is also the place for the Taos Mountain Film Festival which kicked off the season in New Mexico on October 7-9.

Ario Sciolari’s alone across Alaska: Change of plans and pre-start thrill Ario’s original goal was the crossing of the southern glaciers up to Point Barrow, the northernmost area of Alaska. However, bad glacier conditions have prompted him to change his strategy: The new plan is now to cross from Lake Louise, southern Alaska, to the Arctic Ocean at the Eskimo village of Kaktovik, 70 degrees latitude north. "The goal now is to cross 3000 Km, on skis, from the south to the north in this huge land. I’ll be sliding across the ground, dragging the small sledge carrying my entire little world: Tent, sleeping bag, food, and journal. Of course, thinking about tomorrow, alone in the middle of all this, makes me fear for what lies ahead. But it's good to be afraid - it's OK.”

Read these stories - and more! - at ExplorersWeb.com

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