Serguey Samoilov teamed up in Summer 2005 with Denis Urubko to climb a new route on Broad Peaks SW face. The Kazakh pair were the only ones that season to reach Broad Peaks main summit and they did it on the unclimbed west face via a new route in alpine style. Image courtesy of Denis Urubko.
"Our clothing wasn't new, but it was well tested. We saved on everything - only one sleeping bag and one down jacket per team. Of course, we were very cold," said Serguey. "From the start the wall inspired both fear and confidence; we felt the drive. But I always assumed I was there to climb a new route." Image of Serguey carving a ledge for the tent at 6500m, courtesy of Denis Urubko (click to enlarge).
"I can't say that we got to "the edge" at any particular point," reckoned Serguey. "We worked our way up at roughly the same pace day after day, even without gas and water. I didn't feel any pressure of 8000m, even though it was my first time at this altitude. My main objective was not to restrain Denis. The hardest thing on this route wasn't the altitude, the ice or the cold; it was the technical rock climbing. " Image of team member at 6800m, courtesy of Denis Urubko (click to..
Many climbers come back from the mountains transfixed, ensuring their lives would never be the same again. However, that is not Serguey's case: "Nothing changed so far - neither in the soul, nor in life," he declared back at home. The fact is, something has changed: Now there is a new Kazakh route on Broad Peak. Topo of the route, courtesy of RussianClimb.
Posted: Jan 18, 2006 06:00 pm EST SUBSCRIBER CONTENT PREVIEW FOR FULL STORY: LOGIN OR SUBSCRIBE NOW - UP TO 3 MONTHS FREE
(K2Climb.net) Yesterday we featured the first in a two-part series about the life and climbs (and wives) of Kazakh climber Serguey Samoilov.In Summer 2005, despite pushing '50', Serguey Samoilov teamed up with Denis Urubko to climb a new route on Broad Peaks SW face. Unlike Denis (a seasoned 8000er climber and member in dozens of Himalayan expeditions), Serguey was a first timer to 8000+ peaks. The climb also marked his first expedition in the Himalaya.Rookie status or not, Serguey faced the new route with Denis and...