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Denis and Serguey have achieved the first summit on Manaslu since 2003. Imagw of Serguey (left) and Denis (right), during their expedition on Broad Peak last year, courtesy of Denis Urubko / Russian Climb (click to enlarge).
"In the photo the route seemed substantially simpler," said Samoilov. "In real life, the mountain seemed much more difficult and intimidating than I had imagined. I felt a little anxious before the start, and calmed down only after an acclimatization climb up to 7,200 meters on the standard route. When the Italians firmly turned around after having a look at the Wall I, frankly speaking, felt relieved: If you have any doubts, it is better to quit right away." Image of camp ..
"When I moved to Kustanay, all my friends told me that I would be dreaming of the mountains, but I must confess: I never saw them in my dreams during those ten years. I made wooden sculptures and almost became a furniture-maker. Even once back in Almaty, I kept on spending most of my time with artists and sculptors, not climbers." Image of Serguey Samoilov, courtesy of RussianClimb.

Serguey Samoilov: A life of climbs and wives

Posted: Jan 17, 2006 03:00 pm EST

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(K2Climb.net) Serguey Samoilov was the newbie on the team, the unknown partner of the Kazakh climbing celebrity Denis Urubko. Close to 50, this was his first expedition in the Himalaya, his first 8000m and he went for a new route in stormy weather up Broad Peaks SW face. The Italian team they were supposed to join forces with refused to attempt the face at first glance and opted for the normal route. <cutoff>The Kazakhs went up anyway. Facing the unexpected, they had no idea if they would find a way up the mountain - or off it for that matter. Not a surprise...

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