Posted: Nov 22, 2004 12:00 am EST
Jerzy "Jurek" Kukuczka has entered mountaineering history as ‘the second man to conquer all 14, 8000ers” after Reinhold Messner.

The description hints sort of a ‘second best’ rating - but nothing could be more off. The best are not always the first. In fact, many consider Kukuczka the greatest mountaineer of all. In this ExWeb series, we examine why.
Today, part 1: Elegant style, pure spirit and deep respect for the rules of the game

14, 8000ers in 8 years

Jurek didn't only climb all the 14, 8000ers; he summited them all in just eight years! It took Messner 16 years to complete the list. In fact, only Korean Young-Seok Park has climbed all 8000ers faster than Kukuczka. The Korean ace broke that particular speed record by some months, although we must keep in mind that he used O2 for some of his climbs.

New routes, winter, alpine style

Another remarkable fact is that Kukuczka climbed most of his ‘Great 14’ through new routes or/and in winter season. To be accurate, at the end of his 8000ers quest he had opened nine new routes – one of them solo - accomplished five climbs in alpine style and four in the winter.

At each and every new climb, he sought for a twist - a new challenge to add. He wanted them all, but he also wanted a bigger quest with each. He wanted to test their boundaries rather than to prove himself - could it be done this way, or that way, faster - or in winter, perhaps. Jerzy's example is all the more important today, as some proclaim the 8000ers "done".

Cho Oyu, Shisha, Everest - they all offer plenty of serious challenges for the truly courageous, as long as they are approached "Kukuczka-style".

That style is the reason why Jerzy is considered a reference on elegant climbing, pure spirits and deep respect for the rules of the game.

Next: The money, the visas and the suffering

Image of Jerzy Kukuczka, courtesy of Bergfieber.