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"This experiment showed me possibilities when it comes to the art of climbing the highest mountains on Earth. I already have plans for 2007!" says Christian Stangl (click to enlarge).
"I did the climb carrying just a waist-bag, filled with some carb gel`s and liquids stored in a kind of a 'camelbag' on my back under the down jacket."

Both images courtesy of Christian Stangl.

Fastest Everest climber eats 3, 6000m peaks in 16 hours

Posted: Nov 09, 2006 04:44 pm EST
"Good news from the Chilean/Argentinean Andes," reports Christian in an email that just arrived. "On November 3rd I managed to climb three 6.000m+ peaks within 16 hours and 16 minutes."

Earlier this year, Christian Stangl achieved a no O2 speed ascent on Everest north side. "After climbing Everest on 25th May in a single push of 16h 42 minutes from the Tibetan base to summit I developed self confidence in speed-climbing high mountains," writes Christian.

GPS and moonlight for navigation

Here goes Christian debrief:

"For acclimatization, I first climbed Ojos del Salado (6.893m) in the high desert of Atacama from base (refugio Atacama) to summit in 4 and hours 52 minutes."

"After some days of rest in very windy weather I started my series of speed climbs at the Base of Cerro San Francisco (6.018m). Summiting in only 3 hours and 15 minutes, I immediately descended in order to climb next 6.000m+ peak."

"I reached the summit of Cerro Vicunas (6.067m) at sunrise. To reach the main summit of Barranca Blanca (6.119m) I had to traverse east summit (6.011m) and central summit (6.037m) first, which proved a little harder then expected."

"The sunrise whipped up very strong winds again and slowed my progress. After a total of 16 hours and 16min I reached the third 6.000m+ peak, the main summit of Barranca Blanca."

"I did the climb carrying just a waist-bag, filled with some carb gel`s and liquids stored in a kind of a 'camelbag' on my back under the down jacket."

"I used a GPS as well as the moonlight to navigate through the dark. The biggest problem proved my heavy breathing in the very dry and cold wind - I lost my voice completely that day."

"This experiment showed me possibilities when it comes to the art of climbing the highest mountains on Earth. I already have plans for 2007!"

On May 25, 2006 Austrian Christian Stangl reached the summit of Everest without using supplementary O2, 16 hours and 42 minutes after leaving ABC. He returned to ABC in six hours. Christian climbed in a light down suit and carried ½ liter of liquid, carbohydrate-gel packs and salted cookies. He used a ski-pole, but no ice-axe or jumar. He had no radio or sat-phone with him.

The earlier fastest no O2 ascent on Mount Everest's north side was made in 1996 by Italian Hans Kammerlander, who reached the summit from ABC in 17 hours and skied down from 7800m.

April this year, Christian Stangl also speed climbed Mount Elbrus in 5 hours 18 min from AZAU to the top. Christian has also climbed Kilimanjaro in 5 hours 36 min via the UMBWE Route, and Aconcagua in 4 hours 25 min from Plaza de Mulas to the summit.

Chris' favorite climbs:

May 2006: Everest speed climb in 16h 42min from ABC north side to summit
April 2006: Ski speed ascent of Mt.Elbrus in 5h 18min from Azau to summit
October 2005: 900km solo Atacama traverse on foot. 34 days.
Februar 2005: Ten 6.000m+ peaks in Seven days
October 2004: Kilimanjaro speed climb via Umbwe route. 5h36min from National park entrance to summit.
August 2003: Huayna Potosi 2h28min from Zongo pass to summit, Illimani 3h43min from Basecamp to summit, Sajama 3h18min from Basecamp to summit.
March 2002: Aconcagua in 4h25min from Plaza de Mula Basecamp to summit

8.000m peaks:
2001: Cho Oyu via a partly new route at north side (Junge Face) solo and alpine style, 3 days, summit on 24th of September 2001
1998: Shisha Pangma via south face (British Route) solo and alpine style, 2 ½ days, summit on 10th of October



#Mountaineering