Mikael Forsberg was the leader of a Swedish team on Island Peak and Ama Dablam. He was buried by an avalanche in Ama's C3, Monday night. Image courtesy of the expediton's website Himalaya.nu.
Image of Ama Dablam courtesy of Adventure Peaks (click to enlarge).
Image of Paldor Peak, courtesy of Biglobe.ne.jp (click to enlarge).


Nepal missing climbers update: Search underway on Paldor and Ama Dablam

Posted: Nov 16, 2006 07:36 am EST
(MountEverest.net) Rescue teams in Nepal are searching for a total of 10 missing climbers: Four French on Paldor Peak (Ganesh Himal), and six others buried by an avalanche on Ama Dablam (Khumbu area). Hopes are scarce to find any of them alive.

Major rescue operation on Paldor

A team of 17 rescuers are searching for the missing French climbers, Ang Tshering Sherpa, Chairman of the Nepal Mountaineering Association told journalists. “(Also) the French Embassy in Nepal had chartered a helicopter which is hovering over the area, trying to find traces of the missing climbers,” he said.

The four Frenchmen have been identified by their families as Stefan Cieslar, Jean-Baptiste Moreau, Raphael Perrissin and Vincent Villieu. The team set off on a summit bid on Paldor last month – but the alert came only days ago, when the missing climbers didn’t show up in Kathmandu to meet their friends.

Six swept by avalanche on Ama Dablam

The Ama Dablam climbers were swept by an avalanche while sleeping in C3 on the normal route, shortly before attempting the summit.

According to Nepal’s ministry of Culture, tourism and Civil Aviation, the missing climbers belonged to two different teams: Swedes Mikael Forsberg (41) and Daniel Carlsson (27), together with their Sherpas Danurbu Sherpa (37) and Tashi Dorje Sherpa (36), were sharing permit under “Climb High Ama Dablam Expedition 2006”, led Maciej Berbeka of Poland.

Also missing are British Duncan Williams (32) and his Sherpa Mingma Nuru Sherpa - climbing as members in a team launched by British outfitter Adventure Peaks, and led by Clive Roberts of Ireland.

A lethal summit bid

According to Adventure Peaks’ website, Duncan had previously attempted nearby Pumori, also with and Adventure Peaks team. Excess of snow forced them back, and the team went instead for Lobuche East – which they summited on November 2.

Mikael Forsberg (the Swedish team leader) and Daniel Carlsson reached C3 on their summit bid on Monday, after also member Saran Subba turned back that day. According to the expedition’s diary, they were coughing and sleepless, but otherwise strong enough to set off for the summit at 4:00 am on Tuesday.

The Swedish team climbed on Island Peak first, and then leader Mikael Forsberg and members Andreas Bergman, Daniel Carlsson, and Saran Subba moved to Ama Dablam in order to climb its normal route on the SW ridge. The team had hired two high altitude Sherpas: Danurbu and Tashi Dorje.

Mikael, Daniel, Saran and the Sherpas reached C2 on their summit bid on Sunday. On Monday Saran turned back, whilst the others remained for the night in C3. An avalanche swept the climbers that midnight.

British Duncan Williams (32) and his Sherpa Mingma Nuru were climbing with a team launched by British outfitter Adventure Peaks.

Located at the upper Khumbu valley, above Thiangboche, Ama Dablam, “The Goddess’ Necklace” is among the most frequently photographed peaks in Nepal, and also a favorite among climbers due to its elegant shape. The normal route climbs along the SW ridge, on mixed terrain. The peak’s reported altitude varies, depending on the source, from 6812 to 6828m.

French climbers Stefan Cieslar, Jean-Baptiste Moreau, Raphael Perrissin and Vincent Villieu are missing on Paldor peak. They last reported from BC on October 12, right before setting off on a summit bid. The alarm was raised by some friends they had agreed to meet up with in Kathmandu on November 5 – when the Paldor climbers didn't show up.

Located in Ganesh Himal range, the 5.896 meters Paldor peak provides a straightforward climb, according to local trekking agencies. Paldor was first climbed by Bill Tilman in 1949. The normal route follows the NE ridge; however, options are also available for those whishing a more difficult climb, such as the SW ridge, notes Kairn.com.

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