The red dot shows the exact location of C3 on Ama Dablam. Three climbers can be seen moving above the serac. Image shot on October 27 by Maciej Kalwak, camp location courtesy of Artur Hajzer - HiMountain Team (click to enlarge).
A wider zoom of the previous image shows the upper sections of Ama Dablam's normal route (click to enlarge).
Ama Dablam climbers approaching the hanging serac above C3. Image courtesy of Duncan Chessell (click to enlarge).
Climber above the serac, on Ama Dablam's upper slopes. Camp 3 can be seen down below. Image courtesy of Duncan Chessell (click to enlarge).
Ama Dablam's C3 back in 1999 Image courtesy of Duncan Chessell (click to enlarge).
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Artur Hajzer and Duncan Chessell about Ama Dablam avalanche: C3 tents under hanging serac
Posted: Nov 16, 2006 12:16 pm EST
(MountEverest.net) “It was the serac," read an SMS sent by Ryszard Pawlowski to fellow Polish climber Artur Hajzer today. The two climbers had met in Ama Dablam’s BC a few days back. Artur’s team, led by Wielicki, reached the summit between November 2 and November 6. A huge, hanging serac above C3 had been a subject of heated discussions among team members during the expedition.
“During my stay there [in C3] we debated whether that serac was stable or not,” Artur told ExplorersWeb. “In my opinion it was very dangerous, and the tents were set in a wrong place - but so many people had slept there before, including experts - that finally we convinced ourselves we shouldn’t worry.”
Artur: "I couldn’t take my eyes of that chunk of ice"
“The fact is though, that I saw a line of water streaming down from underneath the serac. I couldn’t take my eyes of that chunk of ice during the entire summit push!”
On Monday night, disaster struck - six people were buried in C3. The only trace of camp now remaining are some rests of clothing, reported a helicopter searching the area.
“The tents should have been placed higher up and further to the right,” said Artur. “50 - 100 meters would had been enough, I guess.”
Duncan: "There was far too many people on the route"
In an email to ExWeb today, Australian guide Duncan Chessell chimes in:
“I am not yet sure where or what happened, but I do know the mountain and its C3 well,” wrote Duncan. “Our Autumn 2006 Ama Dablam trip got shut down 100% trying to get to Camp 2, since there was far too many people on the route.”
“My guess having been on the mountain 4 times (summited 3 times) is that C3 was over crowded and these guys put their tents across too far to the left - under the ice cliff.”
In the expedition dispatches, the team reported three hour jams at the Yellow Tower, a steep section before C2. “We had real trouble getting any tent spaces anywhere on the mountain at all, so our expedition leader had to pull the pin totally.”
Nepal's government over-selling permits - but climbers choose where to pitch a tent
“We (DCXP) are shifting our dates back closer to winter and are planning a spring trip next year, in order to avoid this,” added Duncan. “Moreover, we are considering to open up another peak instead of Ama Dablam in the long term.”
”The over selling of permits by the Nepalese government caused our team to turn back. However, the people who got taken out by the avalanche had chosen to put their tents and sleep there. Surely they were unlucky and it is very sad they are missing. One can probably blame the Nepalese government for the overcrowding of the mountain - but climbers choose to put their camps where they do.”
“On the other hand, would have they chosen to come climbing on Ama Dablam if they had known they would had to fight for room with another 200 climbers? Maybe not. Maybe it is time for the Nepalese Authorities to do something about it.”
Times are changing
American outfitter Peak Freaks had a team on Ama Dablam this fall season as well. For practice, the guided team members even fixed some rope on the route. But their hopes vanished when they found someone had stolen their fuel and climbing gear in C1. “Peak Freaks has already secured security camp staff for next season,” the home crew reported. “It is unfortunate, but times are changing.”
On Monday November 13, six Ama Dablam climbers (one Brit, two Swedes and three Nepalese Sherpas) were swept by an avalanche while sleeping in C3 on the normal route, shortly before attempting the summit.
The missing climbers belonged to two different teams: Swedes Mikael Forsberg (41) and Daniel Carlsson (27), together with their Sherpas Danurbu Sherpa (37) and Tashi Dorje Sherpa (36), were part of an independent Swedish team led by Mikael whose members had summited Island peak some days before. British Duncan Williams (32) and his Sherpa Mingma Nuru were climbing with a team launched by British outfitter Adventure Peaks.
Located at the upper Khumbu valley, above Thiangboche, Ama Dablam, “The Goddess’ Necklace” is among the most frequently photographed peaks in Nepal, and also a favorite among climbers due to its elegant shape. The normal route climbs along the SW ridge, on mixed terrain. The peak’s reported altitude varies, depending on the source, from 6812 to 6828m.
The Ama Dablam Polish expedition comprised 15 members, led by Krzysztof Wielicki. Krzysztof, Artur Hajzer, Darek Zaluski and Jacek Jawien climbed the mountain as training for a climb on Nanga Parbat this winter. The Poles will climb via Schell's route up the Rupal face.
Artur Hajzer has four 8000er summits to his name and the first winter climb of Annapurna.
Peak Freaks Ama Dablam team was led by Tim Rippel, veteran of 27 Himalayan expeditions including six on Mt. Everest and numerous expeditions on Mt. Pumori and Mt. Ama Dablam.
Australian Duncan Chessell has been guiding since 1994 and led a number of Himalayan expeditions. He has summited Everest, Makalu, Cho Oyu, and Ama Dablam three times. He's only got Vinson to go to complete the 7 Summits - a peak he will attempt this season.
Duncan's DCXP team on Ama Dablam this fall comprised 6 Sherpa Guides, 8 expedition members and 2 western Guides.
Polish Ryszard Pawlowsky has taken part in over 100 himalayan expeditons. He has summited 8000+meters peaks ten times, including K2 from its north side, and Everest three times.
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