Topo of the new route opened by Marko and Boris on the NW ridge of Chomolhari (click to enlarge).
Denis (left) and Serguey climbed the new route on Manaslu in alpine style, in one single, four day-long push (click to enlarge).
Ukrainian climbers Igor Chaplinsky, Orest Verbitsky and Andrey Rodiontsev have achieved the first ascent of Shingu Charpas North ridge - alpine style. Image of the peak courtesy of Mountain.ru.
"My choice "without limits"? Maybe a route in the same style to one of 8000er in Karakorum in other words, Id go for my recently postponed plan. Besides lack of time, considering such kind of expeditions pose also a financial problem for me." Self-portrait on Cho Oyu courtesy of Pavle Kozjek (click to enlarge).
Ian Parnell leading a pitch at 6000m on Kedar Dome, by Tim Emmett, courtesy of Planet Mountain (click to enlarge).
Sharpening the Piolet dOr: Nominations pick fast, alpine-style climbs - and civilian courage
Posted: Dec 12, 2006 04:06 pm EST
(MountEverest.net) Nominees for the Piolet dOr, to be awarded January, 26 in Grenoble, France are:
The 8000er climbers: Denis, Serguey - and Pavle
Kazakh Denis Urubko and Sergey Samoilov, for the new route opened in alpine style on Manaslus NE face. The two climbers were already awarded the Asian edition of the award, held for the first time last month in Korea. This is also the second straight nomination for the Kazakhs, who were selected in 2005 after a new route on Broad Peak. Slovenian Pavle Kozjek is the other nominee for a climb on an 8000er.
Pavle led a new route on Cho Oyu last fall. He reached the summit alone, in a single push which took him less than 15 hours. Pavle was also the first climber to submit images from the killing of Tibetan refugees on Nangpa La.
Climbs on isolated peaks
Also nominated are Slovenian Marko Prezelj and Boris Lorencic, for the first ascent on Chomolharis NW pillar the new route was opened alpine style in a five-days push and difficult conditions. Chomolhari, also known as the Bride of Kangchenjunga, is located on the Tibetan-Bhutanese border.
Ukrainians Igor Chaplinsky, Andrey Rodiontsev and Orest Verbitsky have been selected for a first ascent on the north ridge of Shingu Charpa, a 5600m Karakorum spire located in Masherbrum massif. The Ukrainian team took a five-day round trip to reach the summit, in alpine style.
Two Brits at an Easteners' gathering
The only non-eastern Europe climbers in the nominations are Brits Ian Parnell and Tim Emmett, who climbed the SE Pillar of Kedarnath Dome (Kedar Dome), in India's Gangotri region. Ian and Tim free-climbed the entire 2000 meter route on-site (at the first attempt) with no aid. The team was also the first to reach the summit of the 6830m peak from its East side.
This is Parnell's third nomination for the Piolet d'Or: He was also candidate in 2001 after a new route on Mount Hunter (Alaska), and in 2003 for a new route on Annapurna III.
May 8, 2006 Kazakhs Denis Urubko and Serguey Samoilov completed a new route on the NE side of Manaslu (8163m), alpine style. A few days before, they had already reached the top via the normal route, achieving the first summit on Manaslu in three years. In 2005 Denis and Serguey were also nominated for the international Piolet dOr after a new route opened on the previously unclimbed SW face of Broad Peak.
July, Ukrainians Igor Chaplinsky, Andrey Rodiontsev and Orest Verbitsky achieved the first climb on the north ridge of Shingu Charpa (5600m) in Masherbrum massif, Pakistan. The Ukrainian team took a five-day round trip to reach the summit, alpine style.
October, Slovenian Pavle Kozjek opened a new route on Cho Oyu's SW face, in a 14,5 hour single-push ascent from ABC to the top - the only climb outside the normal route this season according to Miss Hawley. Other four team members (including expedition leader Uro Samec) followed part of the new route, eventually traversing to the normal route and summiting on October 3. Pavle was also the one to submit the first images of the Nangpa La shootings - effectively killing the Chinese official statements that nothing had happened.
October, a Slovenian team led by Marko Prezelj opened a new route on Chomolhari, also known as the Bride of Kangchenjunga, located on the Tibet-Bhutan border. Marko and Boris Lorencic needed five days to climb the peak's NW ridge. They graded the resultig route ED2, M6+/30-70, c1950 m.
October, Brits Ian Parnell and Tim Emmett climbed the SE Pillar of Kedarnath Dome (Kedar Dome), India's Gangotri region. Ian and Tim free-climbed the entire 2000 meters-long route on-sight (at the first attempt) with no falls and no aid.