Posted: Feb 08, 2007 12:38 pm EST
(MountEverest.net) Himalayan spring climbing season is approaching and here goes an update on the climbing fees - including some other details to be taken into account, according to the recent winter Ama Dablam expedition.

The cost of Everest

Everest south side logically holds the highest climbing fee of all. In addition, climbing via the normal, South Col route is remarkably more expensive than any other route on the peak’s Nepal side.

Everest - South Col route royalties are:

One member - $25,000
Two members - $40,000
Three members - $48,000
Four members - $56,000
Five members - $60,000
Six members - $66,000
Seven members - $70,000

Want a better deal? Try another route - or another 8000er

Luck favors the bold though. If you want to try another route and can assemble 7 friends to join, your permit will only cost you 7 thousand. Expeditions attempting other routes on Everest from Nepal pay a climbing fee of $50,000 for up to 7 climbers.

Teams climbing on all other Nepalese 8000ers pay $10,000 per team, as long as they are 7 climbers or less. (Each additional climber on Kangchenjunga, Lhotse, Makalu, Manaslu, Dhaulagiri and Annapurna will cost $1,500.)

The lesser, the cheaper

As for lesser peaks, royalties are as follows:

Peaks from 7,501m to 8,000m - $4,000 per team, up to seven members. Each additional member is $500.
Peaks from 7001m to 7500m - $3,000 per team, up to seven members. Additional member $400.
Peaks from 6501m to 7000m - $2,000 per team, up to seven members. Additional member $300.
Peaks less than 6,500m high - $1,000 per team, up to seven members. Additional member $200.

Spanish winter Ama Dablam team report: Dead friends are garbage?

All climbing teams in Nepal are also due to leave a “garbage management” deposit prior to the climb. The money is refunded afterwards, as long as the LO confirms the climbers have left no refuse behind. However, the concept applies to a rather large number of items.

In a recent winter climb on Ama Dablam, a Spanish expedition lost their team mate Guillermo Mateo who perished on the mountain shortly after reaching the summit three weeks ago. Guillermo fell down the west face of the mountain; his body ending up somewhere on a crevassed glacier making a rescue attempt impossible.

“To our disbelief, back in Kathmandu our garbage deposit was refused to us,” a member in the team reported last week to ExplorersWeb. “Apparently, dead bodies which can not be retrieved are considered garbage!”

Trash categories

In fact, the issue is mentioned in Nepal’s climbing regulations, which state:

“The following materials shall fall under the category of garbage:

(a) Garbage that can be destroyed: Toilet paper, paper, cardboard, things made from bamboo, jute and cotton bags, decomposed food or dead bodies.
(b) Garbage that can be recycled: Tin, bottles, jars, plastic cans, plastic sheets, reusable gas cylinders, and plastic bags or gas containers.
(c) Garbage that has to be reimported: Used oxygen bottles, used batteries, equipment to be used for climbing or personnel goods, etc.”

The garbage deposit adds up to $4,000 for Everest, $3000 for teams climbing on all other Nepalese 8000ers.

For lesser peaks, fees vary depending on the region in which the mountains are located. For peaks located in Khumbu and Annapurna’s ranges fees rise up to $2,000 for expeditions on 7000ers, $1000 for peaks between 6,500m and 7,000m; and $500 for trekking peaks less than 6,500 meters. Those climbing on peaks lower than 8000m located out of Khumbu and Annapurna ranges will pay $500 as garbage deposit.

All mentioned costs have to be added to the Sherpas’ and BC staff salaries, gear provided to the liason officer, etc. More details on Nepal’s Ministry of Culture, Tourism and Civil Aviation’s website (Check out the links section).

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