Posted: Feb 28, 2007 12:13 pm EST
(MountEverest.net) The Golden Ice-axe is transforming into a “Golden Grenade” of sorts, exploding in the face of media, climbers and, most of all, organizers. Its prestige has been seriously damaged in recent years. Nominees have refused selection. The GHM has abandoned the scene. Fights have erupted between advocates of different climbing styles. But funny enough, it has been this year’s winner, Slovenian Marko Prezelj, who delivered the final blow.

Barely a couple of weeks after happily posing on stage with the shiny tool in his hands, Marko came out with a surprising letter to Mountain.ru. He wrote that he doesn’t believe in a “prostituted” award he calls, "the golden thing."

Two-faced or not; Marko’s letter is courageous, and in the end quite simply a desperate call for the return of integrity and justice in climbing. And perhaps exactly because it comes from the winner this time, the message might ring strong enough: Climbers and media need to stop manipulating accomplishment and truth.

Marko: "I could feel the competitive spirit created and fueled by the event's organizers"

Here goes Marko's posting:

"Several people criticized me for participating in the Piolet d'Or ceremony this year. None of them were in Grenoble."

"Joining this circus gave me the opportunity to present my opinion about the award, publicly. Time will tell if doing so was a mistake.
I don't believe in awards for alpinism, much less trophies or titles presented by the public or the media. At the ceremony I could see and feel the competitive spirit created and fueled by the event's organizers. Most of the climbers readily accepted this mood without understanding that they had been pushed into an arena where spectators thrive on drama, where winner and loser are judged."

Judging climbs is like judging children

"It is not possible to judge another person's climb objectively: Each ascent contains untold stories, influenced by expectations and illusions that developed long before one sets foot on the mountain. In alpinism, even the most personal judgments are extremely subjective. When we return from the mountains we remember moments differently than they were - there and then - when we had to make decisions under the pressure of many factors."

"Comparing different climbs is not possible without some kind of personal involvement in each climb, and even then it’s difficult. Last year I climbed in Alaska, Patagonia and Tibet. I cannot decide which expedition was the most ... the 'most what' in fact?
To illustrate this point I asked (during the first part of ceremony) the father of several children to decide which is the best and which is the worst of his children? He could not answer."

"Were the winners simply more adept at the manipulation game?"

"I might choose which wine, food, song, book or movie I like the most, in a certain moment, but a jury cannot decide which is the best, worst or most for everyone in one year."

"If a jury does choose a single winner it automatically implies a loser, which is the essence of competition. And first place means there is a second, third and last place. Is the last place truly worse, or were the winners simply more adept at the manipulation game? Did they exaggerate the 'beauty' of their ascent more effectively and market themselves better to the jury?"

"The commercial influence on the event is obvious"

"The idea of inspirational gatherings of climbers is a good one, however I cannot support the absurd idea of 'competing' at alpinism. At the Piolet d'Or ceremony I spoke against this competition. I said the trophy is not important to me because the choice of a winner is subjective. Like with singing and beauty contests the commercial influence on the event is obvious and definite."

"The story of the Piolet d'Or makes it clear that comparing climbs and climbers with varying goals and ideals is nonsense. Attempting to do so in the timeframe of one calendar year is even greater foolishness. If comparison is impossible, then what are the media and sponsors presenting and promoting and why? For increased sales, or for FAME maybe?"

Fame is a bitch

"In Slovenia fame has the same word as a woman's name: “Slava.” Old people used to say: “Slava je kurba.” Fame is a bitch, they would say. One day she sleeps with one person and the next day with another. Fame is a cheap trap set by the media in which the complacent are quickly caught and exploited. Those who are caught realize too late that trust and honor do not live in the same house as notoriety."

"The public doesn't truly care about climbers whose sick hunger for fame locks them into an incestuous relationship with a media that promotes or criticizes according to its own interests."

Plenty of Gladiators and clowns to feed media

"The Piolet d'Or show organizers know and count on the cruel fact that they will always find plenty of desperate, passionate gladiators and clowns to role-play in the fame game. The more interesting question is whether it is Reality Show or Soap Opera?"

"If the romantic idea of the Piolet d'Or will survive it must evolve into a simple gathering where climbers exchange ideas and share their dreams, illusions, and realities. Perhaps they might even climb together, with no one cast as winner or loser? If this is not possible then I ask the media and the promoters to stop forcing the competitive spirit into alpinism and to start respecting the alpinists, their human differences and the creative ideas that make alpinism a complicated and rewarding experience."

"I apologize if I have offended anyone who is addicted to Miss Fame, but caution that she gets around so watch out for STDs. If alpinists are bullets and the media is a rifle, what is the target?"

Join the game to be heard

"Several times I have been labeled “naïve.” I'm aware that my essay has had a boomerang effect and brought this criticism on me. While I don't want to pose as a purist fighting against media, I do believe the issues I raise are important to alpinism."

"People who know my opinion ask why I went to Grenoble. They say that if I don't respect the award I should have stayed home. Last year Rolo, Alesandro and Ermano didn't want to go. It was not an easy decision, but I realized that I had a greater chance to be heard if I went to France and tried to play the game. Maybe I was wrong. I'm not certain yet. Only time will tell."

"My letter is addressed to alpinists as well as the media. Responsibility is on our side. If we report our climbs accurately, then we can ask what makes them beautiful and what is the level of manipulation in the competition for prizes?"

Climbers manipulate - and so does the media

"It is my belief that there are several examples of past climbs when the level of manipulation from climbers or the media was quite high. Alpinists should at least think if we like the rules of the media game or not. Many just don't think about it and rush for ... who knows? Maybe some money at the far end?"

"If we want to preserve the spirit of alpinism, the media should function as a mirror, not as a big drum and a trumpet for 'galactic heroes', the 'Incredibles' and their sponsors."

Climbers, be honest – media, do your job

"It would be nice if there were a fair amount of respect on both sides at the beginning of the relationship. The main problem is the manipulation - first on the side of alpinists."

"The media should be sceptical, ask questions and try to avoid sensationalism by exaggerating or hiding facts fed to them by the alpinists. I know that this is not simple. We live in an era when 'truth' is very virtual. My point is that real alpinism cannot be virtual. When it gets serious, the alpinist confronts himself or herself and nothing else."

"I really hope that it is clear what I mean. There is no need to stop promoting alpinism - with respect and best efforts. Maybe I'm overloaded with the past and my thinking is a bit old fashioned? I want to provoke discussion since there was almost no discussion last year when three alpinists said that they didn't want to join the competition."

Why compete? Let’s just go climbing

"I would not try to compare alpinism with other sports or the film industry."

"Why not stop 'competition' and make a kind of alpinism festival? We can show pictures (true or false), tell stories (true or false), share ideas (new and old) and do some climbing? Maybe young people will get inspiration from that as well? Or maybe we don't need this?"

"Alpinism needs attention and promotion. But at any cost? I feel the responsibility to open the discussion. Will the bullet hit me for doing so?"

The prestigious Golden Ice Axe has been the source of much controversy in recent years. Climbers have objected to the award's alleged politics and comparisons of different disciples, such as low altitude technical climbs and high altitude mountaineering.

In 2005, American Steve House criticized the prize for going to Russian Jannu North face climbers. Steve got the prize the next year awarded by new jury members, including British climber Stephen Venables. This year's winner, Slovenian Marko Prezelj, in turn was part of an expedition led by Steve House in 2004.

Last year, the mixed team of Cerro Torre rebels Ermanno Salvaterro, Alessandro Beltrami and US resident Rolando Garibotti asked for their nomination to be withdrawn, stating that Piolet d’Or is a subjective award, pitting climbers against each other.

And only a few weeks ago, co-founder Groupe d'Haute Montagne (French High Mountain Group) left the award. The GHM climbers had represented the prize’s body of reference and moral caution, while Montagnes Magazine was in charge of communication and event organization.

Jury members this year (each with one vote) were (climbers): Americans Steve House and Vince Anderson, latest award-winners for a new route on Nanga Parbat's Rupal face; Swiss Michel Piola, Piolet d'Or in 1992 for a new route on Torres del Paine; Frenchman Christian Trommsdorff, nominated last year for a traverse on Chomo Lonzo; and Russian Yuri Koshelenko, awarded in 2003 for the opening of Nuptse East's south pillar with Valery Babanov.

Other jury members were (media): Italian Vinicio Stefanello, journalist with PlanetMountain.com; Montagnes magazine staff; and Korean Im Duck Yong, journalist and founder of the Asian edition of Piolet d'Or.

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