Dodo landed in Kathmandu yesterday, together with three fellow Slovak climbing mates. They will cross into Tibet this week and head for Cho Oyu. The plan isnt just to bag a summit, but also to acclimatize appropriately for the expeditions main goal Shisha Pangmas south face, alpine style. Image of Dodo last year, injured while climbing on Karakorum spires, courtesy of the 2006 expedition's website (click to enlarge).


On Shisha, our four-man team will face more than two thousand meters of climbing with average incline of 50°, including several sections of steep rock and ice, Dodo reported. The team expects to spend four days on the wall, taking along just three days worth of food, a stove, sleeping bags, spare gloves and climbing gear. Expedition's poster courtesy of Dodo (click to enlarge).
Dodo Kopold stepping up into the deathzone: Cho Oyu and Shisha Pangma before Nanga Parbat and K2

Posted: Mar 12, 2007 02:15 pm EDT
(MountEverest.net/K2Climb.net) Last week we reported that Dodo Kopold was joining Piort Morawski and Peter Hamor for Nanga Parbat and a new route on K2 this summer. But the young Slovakian climber also has a double-header on Tibets 8000ers planned for spring.

Dodo landed in Kathmandu yesterday, together with mates Pavol Lazar, the expedition leader, Jaro Dutka, and Marek Hudak. They will cross into Tibet this week and head for Cho Oyu. The plan isnt just to bag a summit, but also to acclimatize appropriately for the expeditions main goal Shisha Pangmas south face, alpine style.

Four days on the wall no room for a tent

On Shisha, our four-man team will face more than two thousand meters of climbing with average incline of 50°, including several sections of steep rock and ice, Dodo reported. Once in BC, the team will decide whether they will climb all together or divide themselves in two groups. They expect to spend four days on the wall, taking along just the essentials: three days worth of food, a stove, sleeping bags, spare gloves and climbing gear.

The chances of our attempting the route depend on the conditions on the face, which are unpredictable. We may have to resort to Plan B, which would be to climb one of the routes already established on this face.

Dodo Kopold was born in 1980. His new routes on Himalayan big walls have seen him recognized by the Slovak Mountaineering Union every year since 2002. His openings include Sharp Knife of Intolerance on Castle Pek, Himachal Pradesh (2002, capsule style); Last Minute Journey on Mt. Mahindra, Indian Miyar valley (2003, alpine style); Khanadan Buttres on Karakorums Shipton Spire (2004,first repetition, alpine style); Assalam Alaikum on Karakorums Great Trango Tower (a new over 3000m long route opened alpine style in 2005); plus two new alpine-style routes last year on Karakorums Haina Brakk (Dolzag Dihedral) and Uli Biaho (Drastissima).

This tear, Dodo has stepped up to the 8000+ meters peaks, planning ascents on four of them, including two new routes. Dodo will join a Slovakian team on Cho Oyu and a new route on Shishas south face in spring. After the end of the expedition and a months rest at home, Kopold will will team up with fellow Slovak Peter Hamor and Polish Piotr Morawski on to attempt an alpine-style first ascent on the west face of K2. The three climbers will acclimatize on Nanga Parbat before moving to K2s BC on Savoy Glacier.

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