"As we were debating how much weather we wanted to be climbing in, we got a radio call from above that a major part of the icefall had collapsed overnight," reported Mike. "We heard that all of the Sherpas who were climbing up to higher camps were turning around, so we decided to bag our climb for the day.” Live image over Contact 4.o of Mike crossing a ladder at the Icefall, courtesy of Haugen's Coleman Everest (click to enlarge).
Dawa Sherpa, a 40-year-old high altitude worker from Solokhumbu, fell to death yesterday on the south side of Everest, between C2 and C3. Image of the way to C3 up the Lhotse face courtesy of IMG (click to enlarge).
Yesterday Maxut & Vassily retreated from the North Col and returned to ABC due to bad weather conditions. Image of the Kazakh climbers courtesy of RussianClimb.
BC facilities for those team forced to stay put ultil the route along the Khumbu Icefall is re-opened. Image of yesterday's dinner courtesy of Tim Warren, image of BC Bakery courtesy of Montagna.tv (click to enlarge).
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Everest wrap-up: Sherpa lost on the south side, Khumbu Icefall route closed
Posted: Apr 27, 2007 10:13 am EST
(MountEverest.net) Altitude worker Dawa Sherpa fell to his death yesterday near C3 on the south side of Everest, and an avalanche has blocked the route across the Khumbu Icefall this morning, forcing several teams to stay in BC. The way may be reopened tomorrow, although the bigger teams in BC are apparently not entirely satisfied with how the route is being maintained this year (a job for which each team pays a fat fee), and thus are demanding further Icefall Doctors from Sagamartha Pollution Control Committee.
On the north side, bad weather has forced the Kazakhs back off their summit push, while a number of teams planned on spending at least one night at the South Col. Chinese authorities have reportedly expelled the American activists detained Wednesday in BC, while Gavin’s team reports that soldiers are registering climbers, apparently searching for some foreigner climbing without the proper documentation or permit.
Everest north side
Maxut and Vassily: North Col retreat
Yesterday Maxut & Vassily retreated from the North Col and returned to ABC due to bad weather conditions, according to Mountain.kz.
Gavin Bate: Military searching for “undocumented” climbers – traverse’s plans
“[On their way back] the Cho Oyu team was woken at 2 a.m. in the morning while they slept in a small village by the Chinese police battering at their doors,” reports Bate’s home team. “The whole experience seemed initially humorous, but this soon changed as they realized the police where in pursuit of some climbers who apparently were heading toward Everest without the correct paperwork. Having gone through their paperwork and credentials, the police headed on their way. The team then headed toward Kathmandu, where they are now.”
Gavin and Pasang have remained at a Tibetan village, hoping to reach Everest’s north side BC in a few days time. Bates and the Sherpa are planning on a no-O2 traverse of the mountain. “Gavin's plan at present is to take a couple of climbs up to the North Col with one overnight stay, and then come off the mountain completely before going for the summit,” his team reported. “He hopes to make it to 8,300m on his summit attempt, stop for a few hours and then continue on up and over.”
In the news: American activists expelled
Chinese government has announced to have expelled the U.S. citizens arrested Wednesday in BC, according to the Associated Press. The American students had unfolded a banner protesting Beijing’s plans to take the torch up Everest on Tibetan territory, and the invasion of the country. They were detained right away, accused of performing "illegal activities aimed at splitting China." Read more on the subject on a previous story published earlier today on MountEverest.net.
Philippines: South side team preparing as well
While the north side team members, including the three ladies, work on their acclimatization up the mountain, a second group of climbers prepares to set camps on the south side, in order to provide support when the north side team traverses down to Nepal.
David Tait: North Col
David Tait and several HiMex team members took a day trip to the North Col yesterday. Some other members have returned back to BC due to altitude-related problems, and hope to join the rest of the expedition once they recover. The team plans to spend their first night at the North Col tomorrow — weather permitting.
Everest south side
Dawa Sherpa lost between C2 and C3
Dawa Sherpa, a 40-year-old high altitude worker from Solokhumbu, died yesterday on the south side of Everest. According to the official report by Nepal’s Ministry of Culture, Tourism and Civil Aviation, Dawa “died by falling down the Kharpas crevasse while ascending from Camp 2 to Camp 3 on April 26.”
He was working with an international, 10-member commercial team led by Austrian Herbert Wolf.
Adventure Consultants: Icefall Route closed
“Wake up call at around 4 a.m. had us roused and preparing for our climb to C1,” the team reported. “Shortly afterwards a large avalanche was heard — which in itself is not uncommon. What was noticeable about this avalanche was that the direction of release appeared to come from the icefall route. Several of us commented on this. Anyway, we headed down and on with preparations. But after about half an hour into the icefall, we received a radio call from our Sherpas that the icefall route had been cut off by an avalanche, and at least one ladder was out. So back to BC — we are having an enforced rest day. It is anticipated that icefall repairs and maintenance will be completed today, in which case we will head to C1 tomorrow.”
Mick Haugen: Last rotation delayed
Mike Haugen and the IMG team also woke up early to head up to higher camps for a last time before the definitive summit bids. “This all came to an end when the wind picked up, and the snow started blowing,” he said. “Since we did not want to be in the icefall with low visibility and high winds, we tried to wait out the mini-storm. As we were debating how much weather we wanted to be climbing in, we got a radio call from above that a major part of the icefall had collapsed overnight. We heard that all of the Sherpas who were climbing up to higher camps were turning around, so we decided to bag our climb for the day.”
Commercial teams: Further IceFall Doctors needed — now!
“Dave went to a meeting with the SPCC (Sagamartha Pollution Control Committee) this morning to discuss the continued maintenance of the ice fall, and it was demanded by the expedition leaders that they hire two more IceFall Doctors,” Alpine Ascents: team reported.
In fact, all big teams have met up with SPCC crew, demanding a larger crew working on the route across the Khumbu Icefall. “SPCC has collected a LOT of money form the various expeditions teams,” vented IMG director Eric Simonson. “IMG alone paid $8,400 in icefall fees, and the teams want to see the money spent on the route maintenance!!”
IMG: Route fixing update and summit plans
“IMG Sherpas installed more ropes above Camp 3, and now the Sherpas from other teams have taken over, made it to above the Yellow Band, and should be up to the South Col very soon,” Eric said. “The goal is to have the Col stocked by early May, then pull the Sherpas down again to give them a good rest break, then be ready to pull the trigger on summit bids, weather permitting, any time after about May 10.”
Links to teams on Everest North:
David Tait’s dispatches | Gavin Bate’s updates | Philippine expedition's blog | Nives Meroi’s website | Cato's news on Nettavisen | De Jong’s Dutch team - blog | Win Holf’s diary | News on Makalu Gau’s team | Lungevity team’s blog| News on Adrian Crane’s Team Karma | Scottish Scouts | Phill Michael’s Freestyle Everest | Project-Himalaya | DCXP | Jon Miller’s podcasts | Manny Pizarro’s Learning without limits updates | Cyril & Clement’s website (French) | Hamars til Topps (Norwegian) | Adventure Peaks’ news | Kari Kobler's team (German) | Xinjiang expedition's website (Chinese) | HiMex | Abramov’s 7Summits-club
Links to teams on Everest South:
Caudwell Xtreme Everest’s blogs | Meagan McGrath's travelogue | Mostafa Salame | Paul Adler’s updates | Mike Haugen’s Coleman Everest | Tim Warren’s dispatches | Al Hancock's dispatches | Exploradus team's dispatches | Stefano Biffi’s blog (Italian) | SuperSherpas | Sky High - Scouts on Everest - news | London Bussines School’s Everest team | Everest Pixel Dream cleaning expedition | Alpine Ascents’ cybercasts| Adventure Consultants | IMG - Everest 2007 | Michael Dunjey | Werner Berger | Finding Life expedition - blog | Ta Loeffer | Summit Climb - news | Mountain Madness | Jeanne Stawiecki's website | Ice 8000 - news | BaseCampMD
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