Piotr Morawski, Peter Hamor i Dodo Kopold have launched a second, and hopefully successful, summit push on Nanga Parbat, Piotr Pustelnik told ExplorersWeb. "Some other teams on the mountain have set off toward the summit as well." Image of Kinga Baranowska "shooting back" to the photographer, courtesy of Piotr Pustelnik (click to enlarge).
Today they reached Camp 1, Pustelnik said. Tomorrow they'll go to C3; then to C4 and to the summit." Image of Chilean climbers at the Kinshofer wall below C2 courtesy of the Chilean Nanga Parbat expedition.
Hamor and Morawski are not the only Pustelniks former team mates currently on the spot. Kinga Baranowska, who last year shared team with the trio on Broad Peak, is going for a summit push tonight together with Spanish partner Roberto Gorri Rojo. Image courtesy of Piotr Pustelnik (click to enlarge).
Much like Kinga, Urban intends to pitch a fourth camp. Otherwise the summit day from C3 would be too long, most of all due to a very long traverse at above 7,000 meters, Jean-Noel stated. Image of Kinga on the traverse courtesy of Piotr Pustelnik (click to enlarge).
I still hope to ski down all the sections which provide with good enough conditions on this huge mountain, Urban added. Image of Jean-Noel courtesy of his website (click to enlarge).
Tres Pedros in Annapurna high camp.
Newsflash: Morawski, Hamor and Kopold launch a second summit push on Nanga Parbat
Posted: Jul 10, 2007 06:41 pm EDT
(K2Climb.net) Piotr Morawski, Peter Hamor and Dodo Kopold have launched a second, and hopefully successful, summit push on Nanga Parbat, Piotr Pustelnik told ExplorersWeb.
The Polish/Slovak combo launched a single-push summit bid last week, only days after reaching Nangas BC. After 10 hours of braking trail in very deep snow, they retreated 400 meters shy from the summit and returned to BC Saturday.
They didn't linger long; they've gone up again and reached C1 today. Tomorrow they will go to C3; then C4 and to the summit," Pustelnik said. "The climbers reported deep snow on the traverse to Bazhin basin (at the foot of Nanga Parbat North) and more on the way to the Korean Couloir. Some other teams on the mountain have set off toward the summit as well, so Piotr, Peter and Dodo may expect some help at trail-breaking, he added.
More former mates: Kinga and Gorri
Polish Kinga Baranowska, who last year shared team with the Himalayan Trilogy team on Broad Peak, is attempting Nanga together with Spanish partner Roberto Gorri Rojo. Kinga and Gorri have set three higher camps along the Kinshofer route.
Currently in C1, they too aim for the summit in upcoming days, pitching a fourth camp at about 7,400m enroute.
Other teams on the mountain: Just the summit left to go
As for other expeditions on the spot, the Chilean team led by Carlos Bascou, and French climber and skier Jean-Noel Urban are currently in BC after setting their own C3.
Much like Kinga, Urban intends to pitch a fourth camp, or move his tent from C3 to 7,400 meters. Otherwise the summit day from C3 would be too long, most of all due to a very long traverse at above 7,000 meters, Jean-Noel stated. I still hope to ski down all the sections which provide with good enough conditions on this huge mountain, Urban added.
Piotr Pustelnik retired last year, but his two mates from 2006s Himalayan Trilogy expedition are back with a double-header.
Polish Piotr Morawski along with Slovaks Peter Hamor and Dodo Kopold will attempt a first ascent on K2s west face, after acclimatizing on Nanga Parbat's Diamir side. Piotr and Peter were awarded Best of ExWeb last year for outstanding Annapurna and Broad Peak climbs. After cutting his teeth on the Karakoram Spires; Slovak Dodo Kopold entered the death zone earlier this year by summiting first Cho Oyu and then Shisha Pangma (via its south face) where he lost his climbing buddy in a fall.
Piotr Morawski achieved the first winter climb on Shisha Pangma on Jan. 14, 2005. Also on the summit was Italian Simone Moro, who describes Morawski as one of the best Polish climbers today.
Besides Annapurna main and Broad Peak, Slovak Peter Hámor has summited Everest (1998) and climbed "the Alpine Trilogy" the difficult north faces of Matterhorn, Grandes Jorasses and Eiger.
Kinga Baranowska started her climbing carrier as almost all Polish alpinists on the High Tatras. After that, she climbed in the Alps, Africa and Tien Shan, summiting Mount Kenia and Khan Tengri in 2002. In 2003 she summited Cho Oyu and, one year after, attempted Pik Pobeda in 2004. Last year Kinga became the second Polish female climber to reach the summit of Broad Peak after Krystyna Palmowska. Kinga summited on July 22 together with Spaniards Roberto Espiga, Maria Isabel Garcia, Roberto Rojo (her current mate on Nanga) and Juan Carlos Alonso. Piotr Pustelnik and Peter Hamor had summited on July 8 Piotr Morawski topped out on July 9.
French extreme skier Jean-Noel Urban hopes to repeat Hans Kammerlanders feat, by summiting the peak via the Kinshofer route and then ski down to BC. J-N is teaming up with Nicolas Brun.
Carlos Bascou is leading a nine-member team on Nanga Parbats Kinshofer route, Diamir side. Other members are Rodrigo Echeverria, Michael Soldner, Ernesto Olivares, Francisco Munoz, Cristian Garcia, Francisco Larrain, and Pablo Gutierrez Cheetham.
Nanga Parbat 2007 teams:
Chilean Nanga Parbat 2007 website (Spanish) | Chilean Nanga Parbat 2007 blog (Spanish) | Chilean USACH team | Piotr Morawski (Polish) | Peter Hamor (Slovak) | Dodo Kopold | Jean-Noel Urban (French)