The normal route on Great Trango Tower avoids the vertical granite walls, but includes some steep, mixed sections. In the image, upper wall and summit (click to enlarge).
Big wall climbers' paradise; Trango Towers' BC (click to enlarge).
The rock spire "Little Trango" rises between the Great Trango and the Nameless Tower (click to enlarge).
A climber walking the last meters before the summit on Great Trango Tower's normal route. All images by Ruediger Jooss courrtesy of Amical Alpin (click to enlarge).
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The new guided climbs: Great Trango Tower
Posted: Mar 03, 2006 10:01 am EST
(K2Climb.net) Through the years, guided climbs have spread from the Alps to other mountain ranges, Himalayas and Karakorum included. These days, climbers can be guided up several 8000ers, and technically difficult Himalayan peaks.
German outfitter Amical is crossing yet another level in 2006 by launching a guided trip on Great Trango Tower; one of the most famous granite spires in Karakorum, Pakistan.
“We had our catalog out by mid October, 2005 and the response has been great - so far we have 5 fixed reservations,” Ralf Dujmovits told ExplorersWeb.
Hard work
Clients must prove they can climb grade V, UIAA scale (about 5.6 US graduation), and mixed terrain (rock and ice) with their crampons on. The route’s steepest sections, +40º will be fixed with ropes however.
Contrary to many guided climbs on 8000ers, camps on Trango's walls are far from comfortable. And there are no high altitude porters helping out with daily routines: Each climber will have to cook his own food and melt snow for water in high camps.
All systems go for August, 2006
Team leader Austrian Herbert Wolf is an IFMGA/UIAGM mountain guide, and experienced in leading Himalayn expeditions. The team will depart from Germany on August 6, and remain in Pakistan until September, 7.
The Trango Towers signal the threshold to the Karakorum. Located between Dunge, Biafo and Trango glaciers, the granite spires are target for big-wall climbers from around the world.
The Great Trango Tower (6286m according to Japan survey in 1988), was first climbed by Americans Dennis Hennek (team leader), James Morrissey, John Roskelley, Galen Rowell, and Kim Schmitz, on July 21th , 1977, through the West Pillar.
Most of the Amical Trango route goes over 30º and 40º steep rock except for a few 50º sections and an 80º ice-gully. The objective difficulties are increased by altitude and severe weather conditions that may cover the rock sections with snow and ice.
Herbert Wolf has summited Cho Oyu, Shisha Pangma and Nanga Parbat, as well as Ama Dablam, Shivling and Denali.
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