Truth #7: Of all mountaineers, independent climbers on Everest north side have had the highest fatality rate, while independent climbers on the south side have had the lowest fatality rate. Image of Jamie Rouan taking a breather on his climb up to the North Col, courtesy of team EverestMax (click to enlarge).
Truth #8: More climbers overall try Everest from the north side. Only 3% try a non standard route. Everest north side from the top of the third step. Image courtesy of Philippe Gatta (click to enlarge).
Truth #6: Guided south side climbers have had twice the support staff (Sherpas and guides). Image of Everest south side Icefall by ExplorersWeb (click to enlarge).
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AdventureStats Special: The twelve truths of Everest, part 2
Posted: Sep 28, 2007 01:42 am EDT
(MountEverest.net) Yesterday, ExplorersWeb presented 4 truths about guided/unguided climbing - the statistics showing that close to half of the climbers who try, reach the summit of Mount Everest.
Two thirds are not part of commercial outfits, and independent climbers don't die more often than guided climbers. Today though, we examine the numbers closer, comparing climbing the north vs. the south side.
Truth #5: Historically, the north side route has been twice as dangerous as the south
Climbers have been divided on this issue. The north side is steeper but lacks the scary ice fall. So which side is harder?
Statistics show that Everest north side has twice (1.5%) the fatality rate of Everest south (0.8%). Ponder the next fact though...
Truth #6: South side guided climbers have had twice the support staff (Sherpas and guides) of the north
Guided south side climbers have had the highest number of hired Sherpas: 1.1 per climber. Independent south side climbers have employed 0.9 Sherpa each.
North side guided climbers have had 0.6 hired Sherpas each. North side independent climbers have had 0.5 hired Sherpas each. This could, in parts at least, explain the next statistics...
Truth #7: Of all Everest mountaineers, independent climbers on Everest north side have had the highest fatality rate, while independent climbers on the south side have had the lowest fatality rate
During 2000-2006, lower climbing fees lured most independent climbers to Everest north side: 39% of all Everest climbers have climbed the north side in independent expeditions. 24% have been independent climbers scaling the peak from its south side. But the north side bargain came at a steep price:
Independent climbers on Everest north side have had the highest fatality rate (1.7%), in sharp contrast to independent climbers on the south side, which have had the lowest fatality rate (0.6%).
Commercial expeditions have had 1.0% fatality rate on the north side and 1.1% fatality rate on the south side.
Truth #8: While more climbers overall try Everest from the north side, only 3% try a non standard route
Everest guides are often dubbed 'professional climbers' by media while independent Everest climbers are called 'amateurs'. Yet while guides often (but not always) are very skilled at leading clients in familiar mountain terrain, they are not known to attempt off-routes or to climb without support and oxygen. The task belongs to independent climbers - who seems to survive the difficult challenges with little or no support:
57% of Everest climbers have climbed from the north side, 40% from the south side - and 3% tried a non standard route.
40% of climbers trying the two normal routes have had success.
12% of climbers trying non-standard routes have had success.
Between 2000-2006, there have been no fatalities among the 150 climbers trying non-standard routes.
Next, final: Skill, oxygen and age.
* All results based on an ExplorersWeb analyze of the Himalayan Database and Adventurestats.
** Summary tables available at www.adventurestats.com
*** All data for the period 2000-2006 unless otherwise noted
**** No conclusions have been made on sample sizes less than 10 unless otherwise noted.
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