Posted: Oct 31, 2007 10:12 am EST
(MountEverest.net) In yesterday's interview, Montagne's editor in chief Philippe Descamps told Kairns.com that GMH has proven incapable of noticing the evolution of high level climbing. The journalist said that his magazine "in contrast with GHM’s lack of skills," has made the award evolve, "especially by internationalizing the jury."

"Some foreigners even told us that the GHM’s departure was good news since the prize wouldn’t risk being too 'French-oriented'," the editor said.

Except it was never about the French. The trouble began when all of a sudden Russian picks were criticized - by some of the very same people who later formed the new jury and their winners of Anglo-Saxons/w friends. Was this "internationalizing" - or an attempt to hijack the French prize?

The climbing evolution: Flex those muscles

Before we knew it, style became the it word. 15-minute fame alpinists pose elegant moves and pumped up muscles in glossy mags. The elite reminding of close-knit SoHo fashion snobs; they decide what's "in" this season. Not everyone can hang, and certainly not hairy men with dangerous habits! Not on stage, at least.

Is this really an evolution as Philippe says? Nothing wrong with rock-climbing, but mountaineering is about so much more than looking good while figuring out clever solutions to interesting technical problems. Risk and to stick out brutal conditions are the very soul of our game - so whatever happened to that?

Toes and fingers intact, new guys have arrived the Piolet d'Or scene and fresh guidelines are set: "Alpine style, and no unnecessary risk," Montagne's editor said in yesterday's part of the interview, adding that the Piolet d'Or winner should be, "a spokesman, not a champion of the world."

So there you have it, at last, the Criteria for the Golden Ice Axe. Now put the K2 west face Russians in this picture. Alpine style - that's a no. Unnecessary risk? Ouch. Good Spokesmen? ...uh...

Here goes the final part of the interview.

No answers

Kairn: Alpinism and competition… It is an unavoidable relationship or a basic antagonism?

Philippe: "We’ve been through this over and over. In order to avoid your readers getting too bored, I shall suggest you to take a look at Montagne’s Magazine’s editorial in the April 2007 issue."

Kairn: How do you judge among alpine style and Himalayan style expeditions, and among those done from the Himalayas to Patagonia? What are the objective criteria to decide?

(No answer)

Kairn: How important are the aesthetic values of a climb and the respect for the environment? What are the criteria applied in these cases?

Philippe: "These subjects have been discussed enough as well. I’ll send you a text compiling the spirit of the Piolet d’Or. You’ll find the answers there." (Ed note: the text is not attached to the interview).

Kairn: What are your resources to verify the accuracy of the achievements and respect for criteria beyond France?

Philippe: "We have active contacts in several countries. However it is true that today it is possible that a climbing team may lie or ‘arrange’ an achievement."

"That’s why MM’s (Montagne Mag, Ed note) crew prepares a set of precise questions. All documents, especially the images, are carefully studied."

"It’s also MM’s redaction crew who goes over all details with the members of the jury, and many doubts are solved this way. The morning of the election at the Piolet d’Or ceremony is very intense. If there are questions or problems such as those with the Ukrainians last year, we try to be the first to notice."

Kairn: What is the role played by sponsors? How can the nominees’ independence be guaranteed without an independent moral structure?

"The commercial partners help the event’s organization financially. But their support does not even cover 30 percent of the cost assumed by Editions Niveales. Sponsors are never asked about the election of nominees."

"I can ensure MM’s vote can’t be bought; this is well-known — to certain people’s despair! I trust the people who are up front and transparent, before 'independent moral structures,' which are neither moral, or structures, or independent. If you have information proving otherwise, I’ll be glad to know and to discuss."

Kairn: How important is the Piolet d’Or for Montagne Magazine? Does it have any influence in sales? Otherwise, why should you organize such event?

Philippe: "I am not sure the event has any effect on sales. The Piolet d’Or is directed at foreigners in whose countries MM is not available. As far as sales are concerned, there are other subjects much more to the taste of the public at large."

"On the other hand, we want to let the people know that alpinism is alive; we also want that vitality to be known and shared. Indirectly, the livelier alpinism is, the better MM will be known. Funny enough, this prize is the only one to have acquired an international dimension, and that is precisely what is has been criticized for."

Piolet d’Or without a golden ice-axe?

Kairn: By creating an Asian Piolet d'Or — don’t you take credibility from the original award? Since you’re making an Asian version, wouldn’t it be logical to have an award per continent?

Philippe: "It would be a good idea to have a Piolet d’Or per continent… That way the values of alpinism could be defended all around the world. Instead of taking credibility from the original prize, this could be a way to pre-select candidates in a much less controversial way."

Kairn: This concept of ‘reward’ as it comes in the Piolet d’Or… It seems obsolete in today’s alpinism…The GHM stated precisely that.

Philippe: "The GHM always preaches exactly what its president doesn’t do - he’s too keen to keep his fingers in the candy jar. He leads a club meant to represent the elite of alpinism, but otherwise proves incapable of listing a series of achievements within a year, nor finding a president for the jury."

"The GHM’s committee’s latest position is incoherent... They want a Piolet d’Or without a golden Ice-axe, a prize without reward, a jury without journalists selecting the guests…"

"… Without a clear, transparent, easy-to-understand reward, there will be no encounter with the public… that’s what happened with Deauville’s Film Festival - it was celebrated with no awards, and it lost touch with the public."

Kairn: And now, how do you see the future of the Piolet d'Or?

Philippe: "MM and Editions Niveales have invested a great deal of energy making a popular, credible event. The effort was not in vain, but nor is it unlimited. It would be disappointing, but not exactly surprising, if we French were actually digging our own graves."

"I still believe the Piolet d’Or has greatly contributed to today’s alpinism (much more than MM has done), even if only by the debate it spurs. Which event of international significance, which better platform could climbers find to defend their vision and their passion in front of the general public? In the same way, would the films by Kusturica, Soderberg or Guney still have spectators without Cannes’ film festival? Today, the community can express themselves. We will listen to everyone."

Kairn.com press agency is specialized in mountain outdoor sports. Created 6 years ago, today Kairn.com is a leading online mountaineering and climbing news source in France, and an international reference. Co-founder Cedric Larcher is an alpinist and a journalist.

Editions Niveales is a French press editor for mountain magazines such as Montagne Magazine, Vertical, Grimper, Trekmag, Snowsurf and others. Editions Niveales was partner with the GHM for organizing the Piolet d'Or. GHM was in charge of the moral caution, and part of the jury. Editions Niveales was in charge of organizing and mediatisation of the event.

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