Notice sent out by CTMA this morning (click to enlarge).






ExplorersWeb Week in Review - special edition

Posted: Mar 10, 2008 05:01 pm EDT
Due to developing events on Mount Everest, this is a special edition of ExplorersWeb's week in review.

Hannah has hit the Arctic ice, Broad Peak winter attempt has been aborted, and the Russian duo has entered the last degree towards the North Pole. There were a number of interviews last week but biggest news is China's decision to close Mount Everest for climbing this spring. Check in on ExplorersWeb for continuing coverage of this story.

Chinese closing Everest - thousand or more climbers and staff affected Last year, rumors that Mt. Everest will be closed during the Olympic torch event were denounced by CMA & CTMA but this morning a notice was sent out to Everest north side expedition leaders stating that the mountain will be closed until May 10.

According to a reliable source, no group visas to enter will be issued before the date.

Considering the need for acclimatization and infrastructure, climbing Everest north side this spring will therefore be short of impossible. This is a serious blow to Everest climbers and related personnel, many of whom got the notice only one week before their Everest approach is due to begin.

Reportedly, Chinese officials also attempted to convince Nepalese authorities to close the icefall on the south side of Everest this spring until May 10, and try not to have summits during the period. Nepal has reportedly rejected this request.

Not only Everest, but also Cho Oyu will be closed during this period. In many cases, permit, porter, staff and infrastructure fees have already been paid by climbers and outfitters. Those who can afford it, now try to reroute to Everest south side - putting a dangerous strain on this side of the peak, with close to 70 permits reportedly issued there already this season.

Protests are now being put forward by mountaineers to Chinese officials. "I don't blame CMA/CTMA in Lhasa," a western organizer told ExWeb over phone from KTM this morning, "Beijing is taking over."

Chinese Everest torch climbers: what to wear on the Big Day On February 24, Chinese outdoor brands such as OZARK unfolded the Everest Olympic torch clothing line at the ISPO CHINA ExWeb's contributors in China reported. The OT mountaineering team is estimated to reach Mount Everest north side base camp on March 18th. Other main sponsors include CCTV - the main weather source responsible for the technical staff researching the right conditions for the torch.

Winter Broad Peak update: attempt aborted 247 meters from summit They were the last men standing but yesterday also the final attempt on a winter Himalaya 8000er ascent this season turned unsuccessful. Reportedly, only 247 meters remained to the top of Broad Peak when the mountaineers had to obey their cutoff time of 2 pm. Simone reports the upper climb was slow due to unexpected crevasses and climbing from camp 3 without rope.

Barneo to open earlier Victor Boyarsky told ExWeb in an email that the plan this year is to open the Barneo base earlier; the helicopters are due to start towards North already today, on March 10. "The team (incl myself) will leave Moscow with all equipment for the camp on two planes on Sunday, March 16."

Apa Sherpa patrolling Everest? New rules for liaison officers in Nepal The existing policy allowed only government employees for the job; the officials known to perform poorly in the 'lawless' climate of high altitude Himalaya, if being around at all. But now Wangchu Sherpa, president of Everest Summiteers Association, has recommended 28 Everest summiteers for the task, Apa Sherpa among them.

North Pole Winter: Into the last degree Matvey and Boris have crossed 89°N. The ice conditions look good, but the low temperature of –42°C, without the wind, and equipment breaks make things difficult.

Hannah: Alone on the frozen ocean Hannah is off to the North Pole, all on her own, with her heavy sled. She is experiencing the coldest temperatures in her life and difficult rubble ice, but is in good spirits. Hannah’s base camp manager, Steve Jones, is reporting as “it is so cold that she will not be able to post her own dispatches until it warms up a bit.”

ExWeb interview: Andrew Lock, the final 8000ers ‘In Obscurity’ Up to 2005, only twelve men had stood on the summit of them all. Last year, Silvio Mondinelli broke the haunted 13. Next up is a low key Australian: Andrew Lock. ExWeb caught up with the climber for an interview.

ExWeb interview: Daniela Teixeira, Everest without oxygen ExWeb caught up with Daniela Teixeira, who plans to scale the peak from the north side without oxygen and Sherpas this spring.

Everest 2008: "The Xavis" back for a speed attempt without oxygen This upcoming spring Xavier Aryan and his climbing buddy Xavi Aimar will go for Everest. Aryan will try to climb it without O2 and in less than 24 hours from BC. He's not really after a speed record, only to try as fast as possible climb, he told ExWeb. There will be no Sherpas, just the company of Aimar who'll ascend on 02 himself as an added safety measure for Aryan's attempt.

More additions to Everest north side: Latvia Atis Plakans, Liga Plakane, Kaspars Klapkalns, Edijs Sadauskis, Normunds Lisovskis, and Peteris Tomins will use no Sherpas above ABC, and some will try the climb without supplementary oxygen according to team member Normunds Lisovskis.

ExWeb interview, Inaki Ochoa encore, part 1: "the summit is where everything goes down in any and every other direction" 2006 was a sweet year for the climber: He had crowned his numerous Shisha attempts by climbing alone, without oxygen, finding his own way and making the first Shisha summit of the season. For this he was awarded among the Best of ExWeb and the top also marked number 11 in his list of the 14, 8000ers - to which he added number 12, Dhaulagiri, the following year. Next came a very popular interview, so last week ExWeb ran an encore with the wild Spanish mountaineer: checking for the latest with Inaki Ochoa.

Erden Erduc update: Landfall - almost Last week, Erden decided to go to the island of Kosrae, the easternmost island in the Federated States of Micronesia. "Continuing further will put me in great risk during the typhoon season in the areas around the Marianas and farther west," he wrote. But the sea decided otherwise. Currents brought the tiny vessel back out again, and so Erden's voyage continues.

Read these stories – and more! – at ExplorersWeb.com

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