View of Ama Dablam enroute to BC courtesy of Everest Cordoba expedition.

Plane landing in Lukla. Image courtesy of James on Everest expedition.
Crossing a bridge to Namche. Image courtesy of James on Everest expedition (click to enlarge).
Namche Bazaar. Image courtesy of No-guts-know-glory expedition (click to enlarge).
Everest wrap-up: The climbs begin!

Posted: Apr 03, 2008 02:36 am EDT
( And we thought we'd get a vacation this Everest season. Not so. Below all the teams that have started dispatching already, most en route to the mountain and some already there!

Less climbers than usual - about 270 plus local are reported - yet all in good spirits judging from the dispatches. Many yaks are on the trail to BC right now, and the work with the icefall has started! Not much snow on Everest this year, and colder than normal at this point. Here go some of the entries, click on links for more.

As for other Himalaya - updated list of expeditions and reports coming up!


Peak Freaks - in BC!

"We are the first team at base camp as our camp was set-up 2 weeks ago waiting for the permit issues to get sorted out. The ice-fall doctors (the sherpas who work maintaining the ice-fall) have already started fixing the ice-fall with the ladders and ropes and should have it ready to start climbing on in about 6 to 7 days, maybe less."

No guts no glory, Rob

"Today is our first acclimatization day. Were currently in Namche Bazaar at 3500 metres above sea level. The people here are amazing. We have had incredible interactions with our porters and hosts at tea houses. Weve been sleeping in tents, but using tea houses for eating in and toilets. We choose to avoid lengthy time inside buildings because most are heated using wood stoves and burning yak dung. The combination is hard on your breathing and at this altitude we need our lungs as clean as possible. The air is starting to feel thin up here."

Mallory expedition

"Until today everyone was unsure whether permits to climb past base camp would be issued. Lots of people have just been sitting at base camp waiting for news from the government and the Ice doctors had not set any ropes or ladders in the Khumbu Ice Field. The permits were issued today but we are still unsure how high anyone can climb or what happens if there is demonstration on the mountain or the Chinese need more time to bring the torch from the summit. The Nepali army has been sent to base camp to discourage demonstrations.
Welcome to politics in the third world."

IMG - Permits Received

"Good news from Kathamndu. Yesterday afternoon we had our briefing at the Ministry and received our permits. This morning (Tuesday) Dave Hahn and Justin Merle flew to Lukla by the fixed wing airplane, then to Shyangboche by helicopter, where they were met by Ang Passang."

"This afternoon they will do the briefing at the SPCC office in Namche and will pay for our Icefall permits and garbage deposits. Tomorrow they will hike to Dingboche where they will catch up with the expedition team. The team spent last night in Deboche and today they are visiting Tengboche for an acclimatization day. So, tomorrow they will all be together. So far it sounds like everything is going well with the group and aside from a few sniffles, everyone seems to be acclimatizing normally."

James on Everest - Onwards and Upwards...

"A quick stop in Doha and 5 hrs later we had arrived in Kathmandu! My third time in 12 months! We had a team meeting regarding the permits issue: Later this week the Cabinet is to decide upon a proposal put together by the leading expedition companies which hopefully fulfills everyones needs and requirements. So the masterplan we put together was to proceed as normal and hope for the best!"

James and his team are currently resting in Namche (3,415m) "The team is in good spirits despite the uncertainty but with any luck this will all clear up very soon!"

Irish on Everest

"Our bags that had been in freight finally arrived this morning as they were fast tracked, or should that be fast yak'd up the valley. It ment that I had my boots just in time for the first snow which is great. Onward up the valley for a few more rest days."

Tim - blessed for Everest!

"Yesterday was a cool day! We left the town of Namche and had some up and down climbing for 2 hrs before an early lunch and then, bang... big long grind of an uphill to Tengboche and it's famous monastary. We are at about 12000' and going to 14000' tomorrow."

Cordoba Everest - Periche (4200mts)

"The brightness of the ice shining like crystal of the summit of Ama confirms that the winter has not ended. Although we climbed this peak already in 2004, the sight always surprises us. We arrived at Periche, to 4200 mts. Tomorrow we will have a day of acclimatization and rest, climbing a nearby 5060 top named Nangkar Tshang."

AdventurePeaks - all according to plan

"It always somehow seems appropriate to start an Everest expedition on April Fools Day but everything is going according to plan. The whole team are now together in Kathmandu and taking it easy before the serious business starts. Stu & the Sherpas have more than 2 tons of equipment and supplies to check off before it can be flown by helicopter up to Lukla."

Alpine Ascents - Vern

"The team is in high spirits as we anticipate an early morning departure to the mountains. So, please stay tuned for our further adventures."

7 summits Denmark, Henrik: leaving for Everest

From Henrik: "Yesterday we made a decision about what to do. Based on the information we have from here about the weather, mountain conditions and the informations we got from Nepal, we decided to go for Everest, and wait with Denali till after Everest."

"The condition late May, beginning June is much better and the climb, since we are acclimatized from Everest should be fast to do. Based on the information we have now from different kind of sources, Nepal will not close Everest, but there will be some rules on how to act on the mountain. Between the 1 and the 10 of May we cannot go higher the camp 3. We will leave from here tomorrow. What to do in Kathmandu... See you..."

Links to teams currently dispatching from Everest:


Canadian Mallory
Lee Farmer
Irish Everest/Graham and Ian
Klimb for kids/Tim Warren
James Balfour
No guts know glory/Rob Hill
Peak Freaks
Adventure Peaks
Alpine Ascents
Adventure Consultants
Summit Climb
Alaskan Granite
Danish Everest
Cordoba Everest
Nepalese 77 year old
Eco Everest/Dawa Sherpa
Coldfeat Fiennes/Cool
Mountain Madness
Jagged Globe
Lincoln Hall rescuers Andrew Brash, Myles Osborne and Dan Mazur
Miura senior (Japanese)
Alan Arnette
David Tait