"Tim and I were in the Annapurna Himal last year and skied Thorung Peak. After seeing Annapurna IV from the route, we decided that it looked simply incredible and that it should be skied." Image of Anna IV ascent (click to enlarge).
Preparing in BC (click to enlarge).
"We're positive people with great lives who love adventure. We just want to ski, we're not afraid to put them on, drop a line and go home...no matter where we are." (Click to enlarge).
"We'll climb it like no one is there and leave it like we weren't either. We don't really like fixed lines or crowds so we will find a line and have some fun with it." (Click to enlarge).
"Someday the dust will settle and the only offering I have to the outcome of the region is this; We will be climbing and naming as many of their mountains as possible." All images live over Contact 4.0, courtesy of the expedition website (click to enlarge).
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American Annapurna IV first ski descent summit push is on! ExWeb interview with Ben Clark
Posted: May 16, 2008 12:09 am EST
(MountEverest.net) "It's been awesome so far, we will leave at midnight tonight-noon MST- for the summit and will call back and leave some audio dispatches to let you know how it's going."
They are climbing Annapurna IV, a 24,680 foot peak located in western Nepal with the ambition to ski it for the first time. The expedition consists of "3 friends, skis and a mountain." Climbers are seasoned alpinists Ben Clark, Tim Clarke and Josh Butson.
Camp at 20,000'
As an experienced team of Alpinists, dropping off the summit on skis and laying down fresh tracks is as leader Ben Clark says 'staying as focused on getting down as the climbing up, a playful take on commitment and style'."
The route to camp one slid to the ground the day after they climbed it. Last night, the team got some wind and snow and is experiencing some enormous wind slab avalanche potential above their current camp at 20,000'.
"Don't worry though; we're packing a punch to this bad boy. We're hanging here at 20,000' because we want 3 things," Ben reports:
1. To be able to summit safely and within reason, hanging here allows us to eat drink and freshen up.
2. To be able to descend safely-if we pitch a tent any higher and have even one wind event-we could be stuck for days-no good.
3. There are 4 rappels and some nasty spines to negotiate when we descend the first 1000' from this camp alone-we want to be fresh for that.
The interview
A few weeks back, ExWeb caught up with Ben for an interview. Here goes.
ExWeb: Why Anna 4?
Ben: Tim and I were in the Annapurna Himal last year and skied Thorung Peak. After seeing Annapurna IV from the route, we decided that it looked simply incredible and that it should be skied. Our friend Josh has been on two expeditions with me in China where we have been establishing alpine style first ascents in The Changping Goa valley and he is a ripping skier so it only seemed natural that the three of us would come here together.
ExWeb: What gear are u using (skis, boards, bindings, shoes, clothing...parachute? :)
Ben: We'll be using lightweight apparel from Mountain Hardwear and an EV2 tent for the three of us up high. Garmont Mega Ride boots with Dynafit FT crabon 10.0 skis and Ft Vertical bindings. We'll carry it with an Osprey Atmos 65 and fill that puppy full of Clif bars. We have a mix of climbing hardware and will us 8.8 MM Sterling rope.
ExWeb: This is dangerous. Your main worry about the project?
Ben: Wind loading up high. I've been on three expeditions to the western Himalaya, it gets windy up there.
ExWeb: And your biggest strength, you reckon?
We're positive people with great lives who love adventure. We just want to ski, we're not afraid to put them on, drop a line and go home...no matter where we are.
ExWeb:The climb: will you fix ropes, what's the strategy?
Ben: We'll climb it like no one is there and leave it like we weren't either. We don't really like fixed lines or crowds so we will find a line and have some fun with it.
ExWeb: What have you guys done before in terms of skiing/climbing?
Ben: That's a long answer but in short, first ascents in alpine, trad, ice, bouldering and first descents for all of us individually. Collectively we have 10 Himalayan expeditions, 4 trips to China, 12 South American expeditions and 2 Alaskan. I'll let the cat out of the bag...I've summitted via the North Ridge of Everest and been to Dhaulagiri and Shishapangma as well.
ExWeb: You are from Telluride (pretty place) is that where you've been training this winter? Favorite climbs/runs in the area?
Ben: We live in Telluride, we climb, ski and train year round in the most beautiful place on Earth!
ExWeb: The Russian/American couple who vanished on Everest north side in 1998 were from Telluride, did you hear about them and what were your thoughts? Do people still talk about it there?
Ben: People do, their children still live there and there is a plaque at a secluded but popular bouldering spot in the Illium valley that commemorates their lives. I never met them but they sounded like great people.
ExWeb: What would be your ultimate project after Anna?
Ben: Keep living the dream! Maybe we'll see something else (Himal Chuli?) while we're up there but I know I'm funded to head to the Kara Karpo region of Eastern Tibet/Sichuan province to attempt to map and climb peak 6509. I head in September and Josh will probably join me for our third straight season in the region.
ExWeb: Will you bring a Free-Tibet banner? (Optional q)
Ben: I would but bring a free Tibet banner you know, we still feel like we're better off just defeating communism one mountain at a time. Someday the dust will settle and the only offering I have to the outcome of the region is this; we will be climbing and naming as many of their mountains as possible. Cheers guys!
"Folks, if you have received this e-mail you are invited on the greatest expedition I could fathom. We are climbing 24,688' Annapurna IV in Nepal, with the ambition to ski it for the first time." These were Ben Clark's words when the team kicked off their big ski attempt.
The seasoned alpinists Ben Clark, Tim Clarke and Josh Butson are attempting Annapurna IV located in western Nepal.
The team will ski as much of the 9000 ft line as possible. The north ridge has a technical reputation, the team will be rock climbing, ice climbing and traversing an exposed Himalayan ridge to the summit.
If they succeed, this will be the first ski descent of Annapurna IV and a route of this nature.
The guys invite you to follow this great adventure live on their website (check links section), subscribe to RSS feeds, or just send them an email at team@annapurnaiv.com. "Looking forward to sharing the adventure!" says Ben.
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