The view from the bus on the Karakorum Highway, image courtesy of Shared Summits Nanga Parbat expedition, who reached Camp 1 today (click to enlarge).
Pakistan wrap-up: records set straight on Gasherbrums and rockfall alert on Broad Peak
Posted: Jul 16, 2008 01:34 am EDT
(K2Climb.net) No traverse for Dos Pedros; replies from Kobler (sort of) and Amical regarding GII summits, and alerts about careless climbing on Broad Peak.
Gasherbrum II - Amical
Last week, Alex Gavan reported that on July 6th a big number of people made a push to the summit. Slovak Peter Hamor and Polish Piotr Morawski topped out first. Spanish Jorge Ecogheaga followed the two after realizing he was initially on the wrong summit point.
What happened after, is less clear. Gavan reports that Amical guide Herbert Rainer stopped 50 meters below the top, but was compelled to continue up by one of his clients, and thus probably reached the true summit with Ralf Arnold. Yet Amical's website also had Josef Polster and Andreas Kichmeier as summiteers, Gavan reported.
ExWeb asked Amical for a confirmation, and today Ralf Dujmovits forwarded a statement made to the outfit by guide Herbert Rainer.
In the statement, Herbert confirms that he reached the summit together with Ralf Arnold (and Jorge Egocheaga with a friend), while "Andreas Kirchmair and Josef Polster were 50 m in distance and 5 m difference in altitude off the summit at the beginning of the corniched knife-edged summit ridge. Gerald Fiala and Josef Winkler went back 50 altitude meters below the summit ridge due to bad visibility and clouds."
The UIAGM guide reported that members from "other outfitters" stopped below summit true.
Gasherbrum II - Kobler
Alex Gavan also reported that Kobler's outfit aborted below, while claiming summit. Gavan wrote that Peter Hamor and Piotr Morawski clearly saw Kobler's Sherpas stopping at Jorge's original turning point, while Kobler's website stated that their guide Mohammad Ali told them in an email that 6 clients and 3 porters had reached the summit of Gasherbrum II.
In response to ExplorersWeb's offer to comment Alex Gavan's report, Kobler cc'd us on his message to Amical (in German), reading:
"Hello Ralf will you answer this? I write from experience and from information by Henry and Russel that they have issues against us commercials. I will not answer this, greetings Kari."
According to Alex Gavan, Polish climber Pawel Michalski asked Kobler's guide in BC (three days after "summit") how many of his team had topped out. The guide answered that he didn't know, as the weather was foggy.
Dos Pedros: no traverse
The Himalayan Trilogy dream team (Piotr Pustelnik, Piotr Morawski and Peter Hamor) set up a grand plan to span over the next two years, including a long G1/G2/G3 traverse from G1 to G2 and G3 starting via the original (first ascent) American line to G1, then to Gasherbrum La and on the ridge thru Gasherbrum East to G2 and G3.
Peter and Piotr reached the summit of GI in alpine style, by the Spanish route, which merges to American route. They traversed the summit and descended to Gasherbrum La Col. The next report came from the summit of G2, 11 days later, but finally the two had to abort G3 due to bad weather, exhaustion and lack of time.
The question arose; was this a G1-G2 traverse?
"They have done a traverse of G1 (full) and then went down to BC for rest and refueling," Piotr Pustelnik wrote to ExplorersWeb today. Pustelnik says that as far as he knows, the climbers then climbed the normal route up to camp 4, and then to the summit of G2. "So, it wasn't a traverse itself, rather a double header," Piotr writes.
Peter Hamor and Piotr Morawski succeeded in traversing Gasherbrum I in alpine style, after ten days on the mountain, struggling in deep fresh snow with 20 kg heavy backpacks. Piotr Pustelnik comments, "to me, the high point of the climb was the traverse of G1 (in pure alpine style, alone on the route), so hats off for this achievement."
"They are great and honest climbers and I am sure that they want us to 'admire' their real achievements, not ones they didn't do. I am waiting anxiously for their original report."
Broad Peak - reckless climbing?
On steep 8000ers, loose debris gains terrifying velocity very fast while people seldom are in a position to jump out of the way. While stones often come falling due to warming temperatures on the wall; also mountaineers have to dig camps and plant their feet and hands with great care, or they risk to put climbers below in a deadly crossfire of shooting rock.
Yesterday it was reported that a Danish climber had to be evacuated from Broad Peak after being hit by rock fall. Later reports to ExplorersWeb stated that a team of careless mountaineers on the 10th actually broke rock loose while climbing. The first round hit the Iranian climbers, rendering one of them unconscious. The same climbers then again caused rock fall, this time hitting Mogens Jensen in his head, face and chest. The climber is currently in an Islamabad hospital for observation.
Links to teams in Pakistan:
French K2 west face expedition
Wilco van Rooijen's Norit K2 expedition
Gerard McDonnell's dispatches
Marco Confortola's updates
Cecilie Skog's updates
Nick Rice's dispatches
Baltoro Express expedition's website
Dodo Kopold's website
Mike Farris expedition's website
GI, GII, G3 & Broad Peak
Peter Hamor's website
Piotr Morawski's website
Pustelnik's Himalayan weblog
Broad Peak, GI & GII
Badia & Mauricio's website
Joao Garcia's blog
Serge Civera's updates
Alberto Zerain, Aitor Hayas and Juan Carlos Gonzalez's team blog
Lina Quesada's blog
Rafael Merchán's updates
Panzeri & Nardi's Mountain Freedom
GI & GII
Alex Gavan's website
Roby Piantoni's updates
Fernando González Rubio
Field Touring's updates
Kari Kobler's team
Daniela Teixeira's dispatches
Karakorum's lower peaks & spires