K2's BC has turned into a ghost town, with few climbers remaining. Image of K2's BC courtesy of Hugues d'Aubarede website (click to enlarge).
K2 wrap-up: Americans in ghost BC still hoping to launch a summit push
Posted: Aug 12, 2008 09:50 pm EDT
K2s Base Camp, virtually deserted and covered in clouds. With the Dutch, Korean and Singaporean teams gone, only ghosts remain on the barren glaciers as well as a group of six climbers (four Americans and two Sherpas) who still hope for a chance to attempt a summit bid.
Six men still going for it - on O2
Mike Farris has waved his team off, and instead joined Dave Watson, Chuck Boyd and apparently Gheorghe (a.k.a "George") Dijmarescu and two Sherpas for a summit bid as soon as weather permits - which may not happen in upcoming days.
Gheorghe's name is familiar to readers of the book "High crime" where his Everest commercial outfit is among the featured.
ExWeb readers might recall the story of violent threats, clients fearing for their lives, oxygen stashes getting robbed, Sherpas demanding money in high camps, porn in mess tents, and a 15 years old Everest summiteer Sherpani slapped by her expedition leader on descent in Camp 2 while a whole bunch of climbers looked the other way.
The original story was published by the Connecticut Newspaper Hartford Courant - a detailed report about Dijmarescu beating up his 4 time Everest summiteer and Sherpa wife in Base Camp.
When ExWeb wrote about the story Connecticut Everest: "George hook a blow with his right hand into the side of his wife's head" Gheorghe offered to whack ExWeb's female editor as well George to Tina: "You believe I only threaten you with a law suit..."
Back to the climb, weather is the big issue, Mike Farris stated yesterday. No stable summit windows are apparent for at least a week. The current summit team consists of Chuck Boyd, Dave Watson, George (Dijmarescu?), his two Sherpas, and myself. We plan to use oxygen due to the total lack of backup below us. Until we get some indication of suitable summit weather, Im doing little but rattling on like this. The other guys need to do some prep work to get their gear in place.
Statements on rescue labors
Base camp is becoming a ghost town, Chuck reported. We are collecting food and equipment from expeditions that are leaving. Once everybody is gone, the remaining teams are going to get together and decide on a plan for which route we are going to climb.
Dave Watsons K2 Tall Mountain Team reported that Dijmarescu's Sunny Mountain Chogori Expedition - comprising George Dijmarescu, Rinjen Sherpa, and Mingma Sherpa - helped Italian Marco Confortola on descent from Camp 2 to base camp.
Dave Watson was working with the Dutch and American teams to fix ropes to aid the injured Dutch climbers descent from Camp 1, while Chuck Boyd and Andy did shifts manning the radios at base camp, wrote the expedition blog.
At the time of the accident on K2, Dave and his mates were still in the Broad Peak area. The team didnt summit Broad, although Andy Shelters reached a new personal high altitude record, and Dave had some good skiing from an altitude of 7500 meters, according to the expedition blog.
Gone with heavy hearts
Norit K2 expedition Maarten wrote that Roeland, Jelle, Pemba and Mark reached Skardu Saturday, slowed down by landslides and roadblocks.
It is with heavy hearts and great reluctance that the team has decided to abandon the summit bid, reported Singaporean home team. The mountain is so near, yet so far, team member Dr. Goh said. The tents and equipment are all up there ready for us. But with 11 climbers killed when the weather was perfect, it was just too shocking for words.
Pakistan's air rescue services:
Links to teams in K2 2008:
Wilco van Rooijen's Norit K2 expedition
Serbian Vojvodinean expedition
Gerard McDonnell's dispatches
Marco Confortola's updates
Cecilie Skog's updates
Nick Rice's dispatches
Mike Farris expedition's website
Zerain's team blog
American K2 Tall Mountain Team's blog.