Posted: Aug 25, 2008 10:23 am EDT
(K2Climb.net) It’s over for the Americans on K2; FTA’s team was forced back on Spantik, and Slovenian Gregor Kresal was airlifted from Muztagh Tower. Only Zangrilli’s team remain on Nanga Parbat.

Meanwhile, in the European Alps, a serac swept a large number of climbers on Mont Blanc du Tacul yesterday – eight are feared dead and several others are injured.

The first fall expeditions have started to arrive Nepal. A 6.8 magnitude earthquake rocked the Xigaze region in Tibet this morning. The epicenter was west of Shishapangma in the Zhongba county. The region is very remote and no immediate damage or casualties are reported.

In the news: Deadly serac fall on Mont Blanc du Tacul

Eight climbers - five Austrian and three Swiss - are feared dead on Mont Blanc du Tacul (French Alps), after a serac fell on the ascent route 3.00 am on Sunday.

Mont Blanc du Tacul (4.248m), easily reachable from l’Aguille du Midi cable car and the Cosmiques refuge, is a popular climb by itself, and the first stage on one of the most visited routes to Mont Blanc – the tallest peak in Western Europe at 4,810m.

Tacul climb’s main obstacles are large seracs rising right above the route, and a number of crevasses. Therefore, danger and difficulty varies from one day to the next, depending on conditions. Higher average temperatures in later years have increased the objective risks on MB du Tacul: Crevasses are larger, snow bridges weaker, and seracs more unstable. An early departure is therefore mandatory but, as facts have sadly proved, not always enough.

K2: game over

Dave and Chuck from the K2 Tall Mountain team left BC last Thursday. With the mountain in bad conditions after a long stormy spell, the forecasted three days-long weather window was not enough for a summit attempt,.

Before returning to Islamabad, the two climbers planned to check out a rock climbing area in Charakusa valley.

Nanga Parbat: The Messner invasion

“Friday morning, whilst scanning the upper mountain through the telescope, we heard the sound of approaching helicopters coming up the valley. Within minutes our tents were threatening to fly out of BC and the ever present goats and donkeys ran for their lives: Messner and his film crew had arrived,” Fabrizio Zangrilli reported. “They said a quick hello and took off again to try to fly above 6000m as the clouds had parted. They promised they would be back for lunch.”

Messner was filming with the same pilot who rescued Humar from the Rupal Face, Fabrizio said. “I suppose there’s no better pilot to film the face with,” he reckoned.

After some touch-downs to reload filming gear, Messner’s crew had lunch with the American team. “ I did a very short interview for the cameras, and after we all discussed the physical changes in the Rupal Face since 1970, when Messner first climbed it,” Zangrilli reported. “Then with a quick good luck the show left town.”

As for the Americans’ plans, they hoped to head up toward 7,000m on a week-long acclimatization trip. Then they’ll evaluate which the best route for a definite summit bid up the Rupal face.

Muztagh Tower: Gregor evacuated

Askari Aviation confirmed Messner’s filming trip and also reported on Slovenian Gregor Kresal being rescued from Muztagh Tower on August 19th. Kresal, a member in Pavle Kojzek’s team, was evacuated from BC and taken to Skardu.

Spantik: Nowhere to go but down

“The wind was blowing a gale and despite our desire to finish off this big climb, there was no way we could possibly go anywhere but down,” FTA leader Chris reported on Friday evening. “We were the only ones left on the mountain and the descent today was epic for some.” The team reached C2 that night, and BC safely on the following day.

Links to Pakistan teams 2008:

Askari Aviation
K2

American K2 Tall Mountain Team's blog

Nanga Parbat

F. Zangrilli - NP’s Rupal Face dispatches

Spantik

FTA’s Spantik dispatches

Muztagh Tower

Pavle's Slovenian expedition dispatches

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