Chogolisa, also known as 'Bride Peak' sits right behind the Gasherbrums massif, at the head of the Baltoro Glacier. Chogolisa I, the SW point, is 7,665m. A long, flat and very sharp ridge united that point with the 7,654m NE summit. Image of the peak courtesy of Mountain.ru (click to enlarge).
Broad Peak was first climbed on June 9, 1957, by four Austrians – Hermann Buhl, Kurt Diemberger, Fritz Wintersteller, and Marcus Schmuck. Their ascent was a milestone in the history of Himalayan mountaineering: For the first time an 8000-meter peak was climbed without the aid of high-altitude porters. Image of Marcus Schmuck on the summit of Broad Peak by Fritz Wintersteller courtesy of BroadPeak.org (click to enlarge).
The left picture shows Hermann Buhl while climbing on the SW ridge of Chogolisa, roped to Kurt Diemberger, on June 27th 1957. The right picture, shot later on the same day, shows Buhl’s tracks disappearing on the edge of the cornice. The images, by Kurt Diemberger, are courtesy of Helmut Schmidt and his Hermann Buhl website.
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BP 2006: Everest researcher Jochen Hemmleb in Buhl's footsteps; German/Austrian ski descent from the Bride
Posted: Apr 03, 2006 10:15 am EDT
(K2Climb.net) Everest researcher Jochen Hemmleb has regularly contributed to ExWeb with articles on Mallory and Irvine’s 1924 ascent on Everest, and its possible outcome. Now he is joining a team led by Markus Kronthaler, aiming to follow Hermann Buhl’s footsteps on Broad Peak and Chogolisa (also known as 'Bride Peak').
However, the 2006 team hopes to set themselves apart from their predecessors. On the latter 'Bride' climb, they are planning a ski descent from the summit - and, of course, a happier outcome than that of Buhl’s expedition!
First we take Broad – then ski Chogolisa
“On Broad Peak, the team will attempt the classic 1957 route via the West Spur. On Chogolisa they will attempt a ski ascent & descent,” Jochen told ExplorersWeb.
“Our Austrian-German team consists of 9 climbers: Markus Kronthaler (leader), Dieter Antoni, Sepp Bachmair, Sepp Heigenhauser, Reinhard Keck, Engelbert Obex, Peter Ressmann, Wolfgang Wörister, and Gerald Zenz. Most are experienced mountain guides and/or members of the Austrian Mountain Police (Alpingendarmerie). I will accompany the team as a writer and photographer,” Hemmleb said.
7 weeks to go
“We will leave Munich for Pakistan on May 21 and are scheduled to return on July 16.”
Broad Peak was first climbed on June 9, 1957, by four Austrians – Hermann Buhl, Kurt Diemberger, Fritz Wintersteller, and Marcus Schmuck. Their ascent was a milestone in the history of Himalayan mountaineering: For the first time an 8000-meter peak was climbed without the aid of high-altitude porters. Buhl - already a legend after his solo summit climb on Nanga Parbat in 1953 -, thus became the first climber to make the first ascent of two 8000-meter peaks. Unfortunately, Buhl was killed only three weeks later when he stepped through a cornice on nearby Chogolisa (25,159 ft / 7668 m).
Located at the head of the Baltoro Glacier, Pakistan, the local name of Broad Peak is Faichan Kangri. Once named K3 by British topographers, the current official height of its main summit is 8,051m. But according to maps from 1957, when the peak was first summited, the summit was measured as 8,047meters high.
Researcher Jochen Hemmleb (author of several books on the subject) has offered interesting insights into the quest for the true fate of Mallory and Irvine, though his articles on ExplorersWeb.
Chogolisa (or Bride Peak) is a mountain at 35° 07' N 76° 35' E in Karakorum (Pakistan). Chogolisa has several peaks, the highest on the SW face (Chogolisa I) rises to 7,665 metres (25,147 ft.).
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