Image of Makalu by Marko Prezelj, courtesy of Patagonia's "The Cleanest Line" blog (click to enlarge).
FTA's November team in Ama Dablam's BC on November 10th. Image courtesy of Field Touring Alpine (click to enlarge).
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Himalaya wrap-up: Over on Makalu, Ama Dablam summits reported
Posted: Nov 12, 2008 07:10 am EST
(MountEverest.net/Madrid) Hoping for a last-minute chance, on November 4th Steve House stormed up Makalu’s west face on his own – only to be rejected again by strong wind. The climbers are heading back home… until next time.
Meanwhile on Ama Dablam, a second team by FTA reached BC on Monday. At arrival, they got news of three Polish climbers summiting that day.
Makalu: Steve House’s Election Day
“On Nov 4th I made the last attempt to climb Makalu’s west face on my own,” Steve House reported over Sat-phone yesterday. “According to our latest forecast, winds were supposed to drop down to 30 miles an hour at 8,000m – but actually I hoped the forecast was wrong and the wind would die down completely at that altitude.”
Thus on US’ Election day, Steve set off from BC in cold yet calm weather. “Air was cold but not moving – until 7/8 pm that day. After an uncomfortable bivy night, Steve awoke to the too-familiar sight of wind blowing hard on the face. “I couldn’t even get my stove to run, so strong the wind was,” House recounted. “Drifting snow got in my boots, my clothes – not very nice. I turned back and returned to BC”
“Well, it was just one night of my life on the mountain, nothing to big, not too nice – but at least I got a closer look to the wall and some useful features,” Steve reflected.
Wrapping-up: We may be back
Back in lushing-green Tumlingtar yesterday, Steve and mates were enjoying the richer air, the warmer temperatures and the perspective of getting back home by the end of the week. “Yesterday we spent our first night in thick air after 43 days,” House said. “I can’t tell you how well we all slept."
“It feels like this has been a very long trip to me,” Steve concluded. “Everything that could have gone wrong in an expedition, actually went wrong: we had problems with logistics, we all got sick, BC was extremely cold, and wind virtually never stopped.”
“However, we’ve spotted at least two potential routes up the West face which may be climbed alpine style- it’s one of the greatest walls on one of the finest, most difficult mountains in the world. I have the feeling that we will be back in the future – it’s still a great target.”
Ama Dablam: Arrivals in BC and summits reported
”We’ve arrived in base camp on November 10th,” FTA’s November Ama Dablam team reported. “Next we are packing for our acclimatization trip to Island Peak and sharing some skills on a fixed rope course.”
”Three Polish climbers summited on the day we arrived and, according to their Sherpa, the AD route is in great shape,” team leader Chris reported. “There are only a few small teams here right now.”
Links to Himalaya fall 2008 teams:
Makalu
House's posts on Patagonia's blog
Vince Anderson's blog
Pumori
PeakFreaks' updates
Fabrizio Zangrilli's blog
Annapurna II
Croatian expedition's blog
Kang Guru
Altitude Junkies/Project Himalaya expedition's blog
Ama Dablam
FTA's Ama Dablam dispatches
Adventure Consultants' Ama Dablam dispatches
IMG's updates from Ama Dablam
Adrian Ballinger's AlpenGlow expedition blog
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