Posted: Dec 19, 2008 12:08 am EST
(K2Climb.net/story edited Dec19) Himalaya statisticians - what a mess mountaineering would be without them. Reuters correspondent Liz Hawley has had first dibs on most climbing news in Nepal and China for the last five decades making a name for herself over time.

Less known is the 'Santa of Karakoram': Pakistan's Saad Tariq Siddiqi, who has worked no less tirelessly to meet, greet and file all Pakistan mountaineers. The difference: Liz finds you while you find Saad; at the Pakistan Alpine Club in Islamabad.

Saad has now compiled the results for the 2008 climbing year in Pakistan. Serac falls on K2 took no less than eleven lives. We lost big names such as Pavle Kozjek, Karl Unterkircher and Jean-Noel Urban on nearby mountains. But there were also summits, first ascents, new routes and an increasing number of expeditions visiting the country's 8000ers and spires.

All the facts, figures, summits and attempts were filed as usual by the Secretary of the Alpine Club of Pakistan; Saad Tariq Siddiqi. Find the list below but first a wrap-up of yet another unforgettable climbing season courtesy of ExWeb's Karrar Haidri.

Report of Mountaineering Expeditions Visiting Pakistan in 2008
By Karrar Haidri, facts compiled by ACP’s Secretary Saad Tariq Siddiqi

In 2008, 85 teams applied for Permission to climb various peaks in Pakistan, including one winter climb on Broad Peak (Ed note: and Nanga Parbat). 76 applicants were granted permission to climb their targeted peaks – nine of them obtained permit for double-headers, three expeditions went for a hat-trick attempt, and one team was granted permit to attempt four peaks within the season.

On the other hand, two expeditions were denied their applied permits, since the peaks they hoped to climb were located too close to the war zone in Siachen Glacier. Six other teams eventually withdrew their applications.

Overall, 634 members of 76 expeditions launched a total of 92 summit pushes on 24 peaks, out of which 131 climbers (including three Pakistani climbers), were successful in hoisting their national Flags on the summit of 11 peaks. A brief resume of successful climbs on various peaks is given below:

K-2 (8611-M) Chogori

It’s been an unlucky year for K2 climbers. The “savage mountain” lived up to its name and proved its nature by claiming 11 lives in one day i.e. on 1st of August 2008.

Otherwise, this year 74 climbers of 10 expeditions tried to summit K-2, out of which 17 climbers of 6 expeditions were successful - including one Pakistani climber: Meharban Karim, sadly lost on descent.

Drama on K2 unfolded as 24 climbers were caught in an avalanche while crossing the Bottleneck on 1st August 2008. Some of them were swept away to their deaths, while others slipped after climbing the peak to be buried under tons of snow.

Broad Peak (8047-M)

Twelve expeditions tried their luck on Broad Peak this past season, out of which seven teams succeeded. A total of 29 climbers eventually topped-out. Action is not yet over on the peak, since a team led by Polish Artur Hajzer will soon attempt to complete Broad Peak’s first winter ascent.

Slovakian Valdimir Plulik took a fatal fall while attempting Broad Peak on 26th June, 2008.

G-II (8035– M)

This year was a good climbing year for G-II: 150 members of 17 Expeditions were granted permission to climb G-II, out of which 11 expedition were successful. The mountain’s summit stats added up 38 new names in 2008.

(Ed note: climbers reported that only a fraction of those reporting success July 6th actually made the true top. A similar situation unfolded later on Manaslu, both occasions mainly involving several large commercial teams. Out of around 20 summits originally reported around July 6th on G2; only 6 ended up confirmed.)

Gasherbrum I (8068-M)

In spite of 95 members in 12 expeditions attempting to reach the top of Gasherbrum I, only 14 climbers actually summited. There was also one casualty: prominent climber and extreme skier Jean-Noel Urban was killed while climbing GI on June 16th.

Nanga Parbat (8125-M)

Nine teams attempted Nanga Parbat but only three of them succeeded; out of 55 climbers, only 17 summited. Among them were Pakistani Nisar Hussain and Muhammad Ali (who thus achieved all five 8000ers in the country). On a sadder note, two climbers lost their lives on the mountain.

Spantik Peak (7027-M)

Unlike 2007, the current year has been unlucky for Spantik climbers. Only a two-man Italian team summited, while all other 12 expeditions on the mountain eventually aborted their attempts due to bad weather.

K-7

Two teams went for K7 this year – and both eventually succeeded, by eventually putting 5 climbers on the summit.

Bekka Brakai Chhok

New Zealander Patricia Deavall and British Malcolm Bass achieved the peak’s first ascent on July 12th, 2008. Two members of the USA Italian Expedition also climbed the peak in August 2008.

Ed. Note: Italian Simone Moro claimed to have achieved the first complete ascent on Bekka Brakai Chhok in the first week of August, teaming up with Hervé Barmasse. In his season’s end chronicle, Brazilian statistician Rodrigo Granzotto confirmed the achievement, mentioning Pat Deavall’s climb as “attempt.” (Story edited Dec 19: Patricia Deavall and Malcom Bass in addition reported to media themselves that they gave up when the ridge proved increasingly difficult as snow conditions worsened.)

K6, Kapura, Batura II

These three peaks were attempted by one team each – and all of them eventually managed to put two climbers on each summit.

Muztagh Tower

Pavle Kozjek, leading the Slovenian Expedition on Muztagh Tower, sadly perished on the peak, on August 25th.

Expeditions to other Peaks

The recent season saw attempts on Gasherbrum-III & IV, Latok-I & III, Rakaposhi, Skyang Kangri, Dastagil Sar, Diran, Muztagh Tower, Chogolisa, Tahu Rutum and Bantha Brakk. All expeditions failed to reach the main summit on their targeted peaks.

Ed. note: The Spanish team led by Alberto Iñurrategi on GIV reached the peak's northern (not main) summit, according to later reports.

Total Number of Summiteers

In all, 132 mountaineers of 39 expeditions have been successful in reaching the summit of above-mentioned 12 mountains.

Fatalities

Pakistan’s mountains have kept 16 climbers in 2008. Eleven died on K2, one on Broad Peak, two on Nanga Parbat and one on Gasherbrum I. One climber was killed on Muztagh Tower.

Download 2008 Pakistan Expedition Report (xls)

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