Broad Peak 8047 m summit (click images to enlarge).
BP: Babanov on vertical serac at 7000 meters.
BP: Following 2 days of bad weather, the traverse at 7500m was avalanche prone.
Image by Miguel Angel Perez of the bad-looking ridge leading to BP summit.
Broad peak ridge at 7850m.
Valery Babanov and Viktor Afanasyev summited Broad Peak on July 17th via a new, 3000 meter long route variation rated VI, WI 5, M6, 90°.
Less than 2 weeks later; July 29 the two went on to a new route on the SW face of Gasherbrum 1 in alpine style and reached the summit on August 1.Topo of new route on Gasherbrum 1. The climb starts at 5800 meters and merges with the 1978 Yugoslavian at 7600 meters. 2300 m, VI, WI 4, M5, 80°.
Bivouac on the SW face of Gasherbrum 1.
High floor with a view.
"One could say it was a perfect ascent except for the rock," concluded Valery.
Valery Babanov (l) and Viltor Afanasiev (r) opened two new routes in alpine style within only 3 weeks on Karakoram 8000ers. All images courtesy of Babanov's website (click to enlarge).
Posted: Dec 28, 2008 12:02 am EST SUBSCRIBER CONTENT PREVIEW FOR FULL STORY: LOGIN OR SUBSCRIBE NOW - UP TO 3 MONTHS FREE
Occasionally, we see double-headers in Himalaya. A times, an 8000er will get a new route. But a double header made up of two new routes is unheard of. Luck can create success but not excellence. Repeated success is not a sign of repeated luck - but of mastery. Valery Babanov has been called "Master of Alpinism" for good reason. We have covered close to a thousand expeditions in 2008. It's difficult to choose the best, as they all contributed in their own way, sharing their story - their very soul in fact - with us and the...