Winter Broad Peak expedition leader Artur Hajzer and the "Princess of Rupal". Image courtesy of the Polish BP winter expedition/HiMountain.pl (click to enlarge).
Princess of Rupal...or "Tony the goat"? In 2004 Willie Benegas made plenty of friends in Pakistan: none of them was as loyal and devoted as Tony the goat, though. Love has its rewards, and Tony ended up living on a farm instead of becoming the main course at dinner during the expedition. Image (sent live over Contact 3.0) of Willie and Tony’s romantic moments in Karakoram, courtesy of Willie and Damian Benegas/Patagonian Brothers Expeditions.
Robert (left) and Don ready for "Sweet Home Baltoro." Image courtesy of the Polish BP winter expedition/HiMountain.pl (click to enlarge).
Latest addition to the Polish BP winter team: Taqi (left) and Amin. Image courtesy of the Polish BP winter expedition/HiMountain.pl (click to enlarge).
Fixing route to C2 on Manaslu. Image courtesy of the Czech Manaslu website (click to enlarge).
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Himalaya wrap-up: the unlikely brotherhood
Posted: Dec 22, 2008 11:36 am EST
(MountEverest.net/K2Climb.net) Calendar winter has officially kicked off; finding Artur, Robert and Don still in Skardu.
The Czech team on Manaslu struggle to find a route to C1 and C2.
Broad Peak - Artur's notes from Skardu
Bad weather has postponed the Polish team's flight until earliest Sunday, Dec 21st. "Are you proud of us now Simone?:-)" teases Artur, noting they will reach BC in calendar winter.
There will be hree Pakistani climbers in the team. Quadrat (Simone's partner last year), Ali (member of the Russian K2 west face expedition in 2007) and Amin, "probably the toughest, has summited Nanga Parbat and GII," Artur reported. Taqi, hired as a kitchen boy, is actually a Broad peak summiteer. The team plans to do all in their power for victory; including fixing ropes above 7,000m.
Dreaming of having "a girlfriend in every city" or at least driving a Porsche through Beverly Hills with a movie star by his side; Artur has had to do with a street girl he found in Skardu - the "Princess of Rupal."
(Ed note "keeping them honest" - could the Princess in fact be Tony the Goat, promising devotion to Willie Benegas a few years back?)
We also learn that Don's grandfather, Mr. Wachowiak, emigrated from Poland to Chicago before the World War I. "The name of our expedition - Polish Broad Peak Expedition - is thus absolutely true," notes Artur. "Reaching the summit of Broad Peak in winter will surely move Don towards starting the procedures, in order to obtain the Polish citizenship."
Don Bowie: “The unlikely brotherhood”
In his latest update, Canadian (for the moment) Don Bowie reported:
“In fear of ruining the streak, I'll say it anyway: So far, so good. The team feels cohesive, lighthearted, and prepared, ready to take on the frigid Broad beast together.”
“Artur, Robert, and myself will be joined by 5 Pakistanis: Didar (cook-extraordinaire and base camp manager from my 2007 K2 expedition), and climbers Quadrat, Amin, Ali, and Taqi.” Bowie added. “Together we form the unlikely brotherhood of the 2008 Broad Peak Winter Expedition.”
Manaslu: Searching for a route to C2
Last week, the Czech team broke trail through waist-deep snow setting BC at 5,700m. On Friday, the climbers ventured above C1, trying to find a new route to C2, since breaking seracs have left the usual trail unattainable. “Unfortunately the weather turned for the worse, with clouds and snow,” team member Pavle reported. “We fixed only one huge crevasse before being forced back to BC.”
Links to 2008/09 Winter 8000ers expeditions:
Makalu:
Simone Moro's website
Simone's Blog
Info on Denis - RussianClimb.com
Manaslu:
Czech expedition's website - news
Broad Peak:
Don Bowie's website
A. Hajzer's HiMountain
Nanga Parbat
Jacek Teler's blog
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