Winter Broad Peak expedition reached C1 Saturday. Image Artur Hajzer/HiMountain.pl (click to enlarge).
Stomachs full of sauerkraut and kielbasa in C1. Image Artur Hajzer/HiMountain.pl (click to enlarge).
Denis Urubko at home with Simone Moro in Italy last week. Image courtesy of Simone Moro's website (click to enlarge).
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Himalaya wrap-up: Up on Broad Peak - out of Nanga Parbat
Posted: Dec 29, 2008 11:21 am EST
(MountEverest.net/K2Climb.net/Madrid) They started the expedition only one week ago – but at their current pace Artur, Don and Robert may easily be in time to celebrate New Year’s Eve in C2!
Speaking of New Year, Simone Moro hopes to arrive in Kathmandu right in time for the party, while Jacek Teler and his team shall greet 2009 back home: snow and dangerous seracs have forced them to call Nanga Parbat off.
Broad Peak: on to C2
“Artur, Robert and I reached Camp 1 on Broad Peak (at approximately 5600+ meters) on Dec. 27th,” Don Bowie reported over sat-phone. According to Don, the team was spending the night in Camp 1 and then, weather permitting, hoped to continue up the mountain to fix ropes on the way to Camp 2.
"There is not much snow, but a lot of ice and rock,” Bowie noted. "Our stomachs are full....of sauerkraut and kielbasa... That's what one eats when climbing with Polish climbers. And, we are all in really good spirits."
Don has posted videos on his website, and so has Artur on HiMountain.pl – don’t miss the cool images of the team’s arrival in BC here, and how the Polish/Canadian/Pakistani combo celebrated a multicultural (and rather cold) Christmas Eve in BC, here.
Nanga Parbat: It’s over
Excess of snow and logistic difficulties have been too much for Jacek Teler’s team on winter Nanga Parbat. “The game is over,” Teler wrote earlier today. “Winter Nanga Parbat looks like a very steep ice-cream,” Teler reckoned. “Menacing seracs hanging from the Mazeno ridge would turn any attempt into a Russian-roulete game.”
“Tomorrow we will retrieve C1 and return to BC.” Jacek stated.
In addition to the difficult conditions on the route, the climbers had to endure bitter cold and loads of snow without part of their gear and supplies – the LO officer (carrying a goat for fresh meat) had been blocked by fresh snow on the way to BC.
Makalu: Kathmandu in time for New Year’s party
“Departure is scheduled for December 30th,” Simone Moro reported. “I will arrive in Kathmandu just a few hours before the big New year’s party."
"On January 2nd Denis and I will fly to Lukla," Simone added. "We plan to spend 2 days acclimatizing up the Khumbu valley, while our cook and porters trek to Makalu’s BC and get everything ready for the time we arrive. Let’s hope that the new year provide us with a sunny winter.”
Links to 2008/09 Winter 8000ers expeditions:
Simone Moro's website
Simone's Blog
Info on Denis - RussianClimb.com
Info on Simone/Manfrotto.com
Manaslu:
Czech expedition's website - news
Broad Peak:
Don Bowie's website
A. Hajzer's HiMountain
Nanga Parbat
Jacek Teler's blog
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