Posted: Dec 18, 2008 02:40 pm EST
(MountEverest.net) 8000ers are never easy but in winter they become a nightmare which Denis Urubko knows all too well.

Preparing for a second round against the "Great Black," Urubko has compiled a debrief from his past winter attempt on Makalu, in an article for RussianClimb which Lena Laletina kindly submitted to ExplorersWeb.

Denis's story focuses on the summit attempt around January 26, 2008, when an ill Eugeny was stuck on the mountain in a hurricane. Only a short midday break allowed Denis to help Eugeny down to the ice fall from where he could rearch BC while Denis returned to 6400 meters.

Here goes the story:

Makalu Winter Rules
By Denis Urubko

Makalu summit is 8463 meter high and unclimbed in Winter. Last winter the Central Sport Club of Kazakhstan Army team tried to climb the normal route; I tested the Sivera clothing line for the first time - in terrible conditions. What’s the main trouble on winter Makalu? The WIND, of course.

When Eugeny and I reached the exposed slope we could not procced more than fifty steps; the wind picked us up from the ground, it beat us so hard we couldn’t stand up. We basically crept, and had no control of what was going on around us. We were forced to return to our tent.

Only when the wind took a small time-out for a few hours at midday could we break through this blockade. We managed to descend from 6300 to 6100. Eugeny proceeded down over the snow field, while I - on all fours - returned up to Samoilov almost at my wits end by the wild force of the storm.

One hour later we spotted Eugeny from our tent. He had made it to the beginning of the rocky slope and was safe. At another moment of calm Serguey looked out again. "Signori are ascending," he said, "they’ve already reached the glacier."

"Where?" I asked surprised, "let me look!" Squirming at the bright light outside, I spotted tiny spots move at the glacier’s end. I couldn't figure out what they were they doing.

"They’re so far…"
"It looks like they are turning back…"
"Oops…what about the summit bid?"

We followed the Italian trio make hundred steps up and then crawl back leaving the glacier empty again.

"The wind is punishing them," commented Samoilov.
"Yeah," I replied. "Imagine how hard this must be for Nives, she’s so tiny."
"Like a kite on a rope…"

We couldn’t move more that day. We watched also the Italians' second attempt getting beat back until it became clear that their summit bid was over.

The summit death trap

I have flown in storm winds only twice in my life. At 7400 meters on Makalu, the wind blew us off before the crest. My backpack transformed into a balloon, pulling me up. Tied in to each other by a rope, we took turns flying above the col. I kid you not - each of us literally sailed 7-8 meters until the gust weakened and we landed. It was terrible.

We survived the night on a rocky ledge. We made another attempt in the morning. At 7500 meters Samoilov was torn off his ice-axe; flying a few meters downwind. I knew we had to turn back.

In conditions like these, the route becomes a death trap. It's possible to try and reach the top over Makalu Col, but if the wind increases you won’t make it back. The wild funnel reaches up to 200 kilometers per hour making human survival impossible. The western storm will carry your frozen soul towards Lhasa; to soar over Tibet in search of the eternal beauty you couldn't find in your life.

Life in BC: crazy tunes from above

Even life in BC is a mental test. Only those who have experienced it can fully understand the terrible conditions of Makalu BC in winter. Lakes are frozen over by deep frost into a surface similar to pineapple peel. The tent never stops rattling over your head. The ropes scream and the wind incessantly deposits handfuls of snow and sand inside your shelter.

The fragility of life is also underlined by a furious rumble from the summit high up above. She sings mad tunes; she cries out, "poor suckers," at us for not braving her slopes. She mourns and she threats, a mute question of "when?" sounding in each high pitch.

So here are my Makalu winter rules:

1. Try not to look too far ahead: the wind and snow will burn your eyes.
2. Focus on your goal: if you think too much about what's going on around you, it becomes terrible.
3. Trust your partner: because it's the only thing you can trust THERE.

Winter ascents - especially on 8000ers - have their very own, specific rules. I'm returning to Makalu again this winter, with my friend Simone Moro. We have already climbed many routes together, each of our expeditions becoming a big adventure. I hope that we will have another such this time.

I will climb in my Sivera clothes again; the Inta suit with Primaloft filling will get a hard test in these conditions. I still prefer footwear from LaSportiva to keep frostbite at bay. And as usual, I’ll use CAMP gear.

Good luck for all!

Denis Urubko
Central Sport Club of Kazakhstan Army.
15.12.2008

Urubko's climbs are legendary; over only the past few years Denis and twice-divorced, ever-loyal climbing buddy Serguey planted new routes on Manaslu and an unclimbed face of Broad Peak. In 2007 the two made the the latest K2 summit ever in the first K2 north side ascent in 11 years.

Denis Urubko is considered one of the top climbers today. He has summited most of the 8000ers and many other major peaks in the Himalayas and Central Asia. He has also sacrificed summits to help climbers in trouble, some of whom he had never met before.

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