Back to Everest - from Nepal this time. Image of Alex Abramov courtesy of 7Summits-Club (click to enlarge).
Described by one of his best friends, the late Iñaki Ochoa, as one of the strongest climbers in the world - Jorge Egocheaga, MD, will attempt Kangchen with Edurne Pasaban. Image by ElComercioDigital.com (click to enlarge).
Mario Merelli and Mario Panzeri (left in image) at departure from Italy to Manaslu. Image courtesy of Merelli's home team (click to enlarge).
Valery (left) and Victor in Lete earlier this week. The climbers are now enroute to Annapurna's west face. Image courtesy of Babanov's website (click to enlarge).
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Himalaya wrap-up: Manaslu, Makalu and Everest additions, Kang unrest over, preps for winter K2
Posted: Mar 24, 2009 12:53 pm EDT
(MountEverest.net) Unrest in the Kangchenjunga region is over according to local outfitters; Valery Babanov is already on his way to Annapurna while Iñurrategi, Vallejo and Zabalza prepare to attempt Makalu West Pillar in alpine style.
Climbers are flocking to Manaslu, the most popular 8000+meter destination this season - after Everest south side that is. Alex Abramov’s commercial team is the latest to report they will climb the big E from Nepal.
In Pakistan, Russians Victor Kozlov and Nickolay Totmjanin are on a deserted Baltoro Glacier to scout the best route for a K2 attempt this winter.
Update on Kangchenjunga region’s unrest: Sonam Sherpa
News of unrest in the Kangchenjunga region, which forced Nives Meroi and Romano Benet to switch for Annapurna, got Edurne Pasaban a bit worried: the Spanish climber is leaving for Kang in five days.
She checked with her local outfitter Thamserku Trekking's owner Sonam Sherpa who offered following details:
“I have checked on the Italian group’s alleged problems, and I’ve come to know that in fact the problem took place not exactly while trekking towards Kangchenjunga, but on the way to Taplejung, where the expedition’s staff was traveling by bus,” Sonam wrote. ”The blockade was established by the Limbuan ethnic group, and they inhabit an area located before Taplejung."
“The strike is now over, and our group is free to proceed without any problem," Sonam added. "So, there is no reason to worry.”
Changes in Edurne’s team – enters Jorge Egocheaga
When Mikel Zabalza decided to join Alberto Iñurrategi and Juan Vallejo on Makalu’s West Pillar - read more in an interview with Juan Vallejo published yesterday - a new member was appointed to take his place: MD Jorge Egocheaga.
Jorge was described by one of his best friends, the late Iñaki Ochoa, as one of the strongest climbers in the world.
One more team for Kangchenjunga
Norwegians Jon Gangdal and Mattias Karlsson will attempt Kang with Dawa Tenzing Sherpa, Dawa Chhiri Sherpa and Pasang Sherpa.
Everest: 7-summits Club going south
Seven Summits Club Everest Expedition is finally being launched from the peak’s Nepalese side – a first for the otherwise Everest veteran Alex Abramov.
Abramov and guides Nikolay Cherny and Maxim Bogatiryov arrived in Kathmandu last week.
Members to arrive soon are the team’s doctor and BC manager Avaz Makthalikov, guide Viktor Bobok and climbers Vladimir Khutorovsky (Russia), Andrey Carpenco (Russia), Dmitry Nikitin (Russia), Philippe Burlet (France), Erik Ravenstijn (Germany), Michael James Marin (USA), John Anthony Crelling(Great Britain), Patrick Rajnaraine Singh (Canada), Lynne Hanna(Great Britain), and Noel Richmond Hanna (Great Britain).
Japan for Everest north
The Japanese expedition launched by Kanagawa University's Alpine Club is one of the few reportedly attempting Everest from Tibet. The expedition members have currently only Everest and Vinson to go on their 7 Summits project.
The expedition was scheduled to arrive in Kathmandu yesterday. Before Everest, they plan to acclimatize in Langtan area.
Alexey Bolotov & Co for Manaslu
A strong (and huge) Russian team led by Alexey Bolotov is departing Moscow for Manaslu on March 28. The expedition is sharing climbing permit with Peter Hamor and Piotr Moravski but, while the Russians are climbing on the normal route, the “Two Peters” will go for a new line on the West face.
Russian team members are Eugeny Vinogradsky, Gleb Sokolov, Ilja Rozhkov, Arcady Ryzhenko, Dmitry Frolenko, Alexander Bachurin, Alexander Lutokhin, Dmitry Sinev, Edward Rozhkov, Irina Avdeeva, Olga Bystrova, Dmitry Moskalev, Yuri Soifer, Bidzina Gudzhabidze, Alexander Chesnokov, Yekaterina Plakhova, Vladimir Belous and Serguey Duganov.
Mario Merelli & Co. for Manaslu
Manaslu is also Mario Merelli’s goal. Teaming up with him are Mario Panzeri, Marco Zaffaroni, Marco Rusconi, Giuseppe Antonelli, and Roberto Manni.
Annapurna: Babanov & Afanasiev's dangerous crossing
Valery and Victor hoped to start the trek to Annapurna’s West face BC yesterday. “The approach will take them 4 days and won’t be easy - especially not for the porters,” Valery’s home team reported.
“Valery and Victor have bought 400 m of rope to fix an exposed pass, which they expect to find overloaded with snow, for the porters to cross safely.”
Pakistan: Russians scouting on Baltoro for Winter K2!
The Russian National team will tackle K2 this winter. The expedition will go from Pakistan instead of the previously eyed Chinese side.
“The Chinese permit is too expensive,” RussianClimb’s Lena Laletina updated ExWeb. “There are also no civilian helicopters in China, only those belonging to the army, so emergency assistance would not be available if needed."
In addition, no porters are available in China to help carry loads from the end of Camel's trail to BC. The Kazakh expedition who attempted winter K2 in 2007 faced the same problem and was forced to carry all loads to BC, spending a lot of energy already before the climb.
Meanwhile Victor Kozlov and Nickolay Totmjanin are on the Baltoro glacier already to scout the faces and choose a line. Yesterday they called over sat phone from 4600m. “It's still winter here,” they said. “Nights are very cold – we’ve had to break trail in waist-deep snow.”
Links to 2009 Himalaya expeditions:
Everest South side:
Everest traverse - Bill Burke's blog
Richard Hidalgo's blog
Singapore's women on Everest updates
Airborne Ranger Club of Finland
Croatian female Everest expedition
Scott Woolums' Adventures International
Altitude Junkies
Manuel Pizarro - news
Lance Fox's dispatches
Jason Maehl
Yuri and Laura
Nic Cunningham
Billi Bierling - Everest diary
David Tait's dispatches
Adrian Ballinger
Alec Turner's dispatches
Eugene Constant's blog
Megan Delanty's blog
Chris Dovell's blog
Norwegians Hjertnes, Jacobsen and Rambøl
Gilad Stern
Robert kojetin
German Thomas "Tomsky"
SummitClimb - News
Laserer Alpin
Iberic Everest expedition
Nancy Norris
Abramov's 7Summits-club
Everest North side:
Czech Hornbein Couloir expedition - Libor Uher's website
Kanagawa University Alpine Club
Kobler&Partner
Lee Farmer
Kangchenjunga:
Edurne Pasaban
Nives Meroi & Romano Benet
Jon Gangdal
Makalu:
Zangrilli's blog
Zangrilli's guiding blog
Roland Hunter's expedition blog
News on Vallejo, Iñurrategi, Zabalza - Euskadi Kirola
Annapurna:
Martin Minarik
Valeri Babanov
Libor Uher's website
Lhotse:
Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner - news
Manaslu:
Joao Garcia's expedition blog
Jean Luc Fohal's website
Piotr Morawski - news
Andalusian female team - news
Lina Quesada
Carlos Pauner
Nick Rice's dispatches
Mario Merelli
Dhaulagiri
News on Mehdi Etemadfar -MountainZone.ir
Shisha Pangma
Andrew Lock's Shisha+Everest dispatches
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