Juan Vallejo is returning to Makalu's West Pillar next week, this time for an alpine style attempt. Image courtesy of BBK (click to enlarge).
Expedition members at a press conference prior to departure. LtR: Juan, Mikel, a journalist who will accompany the team to BC, and Alberto. Image courtesy of Euskadi Kirola Fundazioa (click to enlarge).
File image of Alberto Iñurrategi (left) and Juan Vallejo courtesy of BBK (click to enlarge).
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Makalu West Pillar: ExWeb interview with Juan Vallejo, "it's a committed climb, with no room for errors"
Posted: Mar 24, 2009 11:42 am EDT
(MountEveret.net) Juan Vallejo started his Himalayan career supporting Juanito Oiarzabal and the big expeditions launched by Al Filo de lo Imposible TV series.
8, 8000er summits later, Juan turned to tougher routes, smaller teams and a lighter style together with another 14x8000ers summiteer; fellow Basque Alberto Iñurrategi.
Similar in age (both in their late-thirties), the two have since led a number of great expeditions, such as the Everest Supercouloir and latest last year; GIV’s Shining Wall.
Makalu’s West Pillar is next, in alpine style. ExWeb's Angela Benavides caught up with Juan in Spain before his departure.
ExplorersWeb: How come you switched from expedition-style to fast, Himalayan big-wall climbs, such as GIVs?
Juan Vallejo: How could I not? It’s just a natural evolution as a climber. Don’t get me wrong: I’ve got nothing against expedition-style or summit-bagging; in fact, I might consider such projects in the future. It’s just not my favorite kind of style. As I became familiar with the Himalayas, I became transfixed with different peaks, routes and climbing strategies, so I went for what I really wanted. I don’t regret it; I'm climbing in the way that fulfils me most.
ExplorersWeb: Memories from GIV last year?
Juan Vallejo: Oh boy, they’re just great. It was an amazing route. It’s just… OK, had we reached the main summit we'd been happier - we had to stop at a secondary point. Still, we came back with no regrets as we climbed the entire route to the ridge. From my personal point of view – it’s not like climbing Everest and stopping at the South summit where you really feel you’ve not made it. On GIV, our highest point truly felt like a summit with the same entity as the main one.
ExplorersWeb: You had done all the hard work, so why didn't you continue along the ridge to the top?
Juan Vallejo: Because it had gotten too late, too cold when we reached the summit ridge. The overall risk of frostbite and such was just too high; I am sure we took the most sensible decision.
ExplorersWeb: You’re headed for Makalu’s West Pillar next, a route you also attempted in 2003. Back then you fixed ropes while you’ll try an alpine-style ascent this time. Why do you think that might work better?
Juan Vallejo: Well, I can’t tell how it will work out this time – but back in 2003 the rope-fixing and camp-setting was not so helpful in the end. Carrying ropes and gear up such a long, steep route exhausted us and turned out a handicap.
In alpine-style, Makalu’s West pillar is a major challenge as well. In fact, it has not been done before as far as we know. It’s a very committed climb, with no room for errors. But of course we think that we have a shot – or we wouldn’t even try.
Being such a tough climb, I rather jump to it as soon as possible while fit and willing – I’m getting old!
ExplorersWeb: Where do you plan to acclimatize?
Juan Vallejo: We’ll kick off with Baruntse and may also climb parts of Makalu’s normal route to check conditions on the mountain’s upper sections.
ExplorersWeb: You’re teaming up with Alberto Iñurrategi again – whose idea was the Makalu attempt?
Juan Vallejo: Both’s. We’ve been considering that route for years, waiting for the right moment to attempt it. Our chance came last year, when the Euskadi Kirola foundation (a Basque local government’s entity promoting elite-sport) launched a scholarship for mountaineering projects.
We applied and they liked our aim – mostly the route and the style - rather than the summit itself. So we got financial support to do exactly what we wanted to do.
ExplorersWeb: The third member in the team, Mikel Zabalza, was originally to join Edurne Pasaban on Kangchenjunga. How did you persuade him to switch to you?
Juan Vallejo: Ha, ha – not at all! We just offered him the choice to join us, just as last year on GIV, and he quickly made up his mind – all by himself. I’m sure he likes the project as much as we do; he just couldn’t refuse to grab the chance, I guess.
ExplorersWeb: Do you think a three-man team is best for the planned route?
Juan Vallejo: Definitely. Two people may be too few on such a long route, while a larger team would be too slow. Three people can climb pretty fast when roped-up, and sharing the lead on every pitch.
ExplorersWeb: Speaking of sharing… are you sharing the route or climbing permit with any other team?
Juan Vallejo: We have not heard of any other team attempting the Pillar this season. As for the permit, our outfitter in Nepal got us a share with an expedition attempting the normal route. Honestly though, I don’t know who they are.
Born in Alava, Spanish Basque Country, Juan Vallejo (38) has summited 8, 8000ers.
Last year Alberto Iñurrategi, José Carlos Tamayo, Ferrán Latorre, Juan Vallejo and Miguel Zabalaza climbed Gasherbrum IV via the Australian-American route on the NW Ridge, reaching a secondary point on the summit ridge. Ferran Latorre was hit by a falling rock and suffered a leg injury on descent, but managed to reach BC and was evacuated by helicopter without further complications.
Juan, Alberto and Mikel are setting off from Spain on Monday, March 30th, hoping to climb Makalu's West Pillar in alpine-style.
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