Climbers on descent on Kangchenjunga - image courtesy of Edurne's Al Filo team /TVE (click to elarge).
Image of recent Manaslu summiteer Mario Panzeri, courtesy of Montagna.org (click to enlarge).
Image of Xavi Arias in Everest-Lhotse BC some days ago, courtesy of Xavi's home team (click to enlarge).
“Tamara Romero and Inma Garrido, from the Andalusian female Manaslu expedition, topped-out at 9:30, local time,” the expedition’s home team reported. “Manuel ‘Lolo’ Gonzalex, accompanying the team, has also reached the summit.” Image of the team courtesy of the expedition (click to enlarge).
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Himalaya wrap-up: Kangchenjunga and Manaslu summits, Edurne in C3
Posted: May 19, 2009 12:23 pm EDT
(MountEverest.net) “It was the toughest climb of my life!” Polish Kinga Baranowska and Norwegian Jon Gangdal both used the same words to describe their ascent of Kangchenjunga yesterday. Kinga dedicated her top to Wanda Rutkiewicz’s memory.
All summiteers, and particularly Edurne Pasaban, were exhausted on descent. Nives Meroi gave up her success for the best reason possible - her husband.
”Another K2” for Edurne
The Basque climber, now 12x8000ers summiteer, was helped down from C4 today by climbing mates– but needed over 7 hours to reach C3, and was unable to move further down.
Alex Chicon (who turned around without reaching the summit yesterday, and therefore felt stronger) and a Sherpa stayed with Pasaban, while mates Ferrán, Juanito, Asier proceeded to C2. Edurne’s state didn’t improve along the evening so, fearing for her life, a Sherpa was appointed to reach the Camp with some O2.
Edurne sipped some gas, and felt better immediately. She was able to eat, drink and walk some steps again, according to Al Filo team.
“It’s been another K2,” Edurne told her parents with a broken voice over the sat-phone yesterday from C4. After 24 hours above 8,000 meters, including a difficult descent from the summit in the night, Pasaban couldn’t help to think of her 2004’ K2 experience. Back then, exhausted and frostbitten, she was pushed to the limit on descent – and eventually lost two toes to frostbite.
Alberto Zerain – rescue turned into summit push
Meanwhile Alberto Zerain, who departed C4 yesterday carrying O2 and hot drinks for the climbers on descent, continued up after checking they were OK - he summited shortly after dawn today.
Nives Meroi: Romano comes first
Nives Meroi and Romano Benet are back in BC. Romano felt bad during the summit push and, fearing he might be developing HACE, Nives sacrificed her summit chance in order to escort her husband down.
“It would have been easy for Nives to reach the summit by continuing on her own, since she was feeling strong and there was a line of climbers on the way,” her sister Leila posted on Meroi’s website. “But she didn’t even think about it, and sacrificed her chance in order to accompany and look after Romano on the way back down.” Nives reportedly said Romano finally entered BC “stumbling like a zombie”.
Manaslu: summits!
Italian Mario Panzeri was the first to reach Manaslu's summit today, according to Montagna.org. "Mario topped-out on his own, after leaving everyone else behind shortly after departure from C4," the Italian site stated. "He is already back in BC." Manaslu is Panzeri's 10th 8000er.
”Zsolt Eröss, member of the Hungarian Expedition reached Manaslu’s main summit at 10.15 (Nepal time) today,” Zsolt’s wife Hilda told ExplorersWeb. “(When I talked to Zsolt) two other members were on the way: one of them had turned around, while a second still had a chance to top-out.”
“Tamara Romero and Inma Garrido, from the Andalusian female Manaslu expedition, topped-out at 9:30, local time,” the expedition’s home team reported. “Manuel ‘Lolo’ Gonzalex, accompanying the team, has also reached the summit.”
Before the Hungarian and Spanish climbers, Alexei Bolotov’s Russian team led the way on Monday.
“On May 14th, only five hard-core members in the Russian team remained in place,” Mountain.ru reported. “Alexei Bolotov, Gleb Sokolov and Sergei Duganov started the final assault - but that day strong wind forced them back. The climbers launched a second attempt on May 18th, early in the morning, and topped-out Manaslu at 10.30am local time.
Gleb Solokov, from Novosibirsk, was summit-member in 2007’s Russian K2 West Face expedition, and 2004’s Everest’s Central North face wall. In 2005 Gleb completed the first solo traverse of Peak Pobeda.
Lhotse: Xavi Arias going for the top tonight
Spanish Xavi Arias logged on from C4, after spending hours trying to repair his tent, which he found severely damaged by the wind. "I've fixed best I could, and assumed I'll spend an uncomfortable summit night," he reported. "Nothing else you can do in times of crisis." Xavi is setting off towards Lhotse's summit tonight.
Kangchenjunga:
Edurne Pasaban
Jon Gangdal
Kinga Baranowska
Nives Meroi & Romano Benet
Makalu:
Zangrilli's blog
Zangrilli's guiding blog
Roland Hunter's expedition blog
News on Vallejo, Iñurrategi, Zabalza - EiTB blogs
Annapurna:
Martin Minarik
Elisabeth Revol's blog
Valeri Babanov
Lhotse:
Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner - news
Ralf's Amical Alpin
Hirotaka Takeuchi's blog
David Göttler's website
Xavi Arias' blog
News on Mondinelli on Montagna.org
Manaslu:
Joao Garcia's expedition blog
Windhorse Trekking - News on KOrean Dynamic Busan
Andalusian female team - news
Lina Quesada
Carlos Pauner
Nick Rice's dispatches
Mario Merelli
Radek Jaros
Dhaulagiri
Piotr Morawski - news
Peter Hamor
Polish Tatra Rescuers team
News on Mehdi Etemadfar -MountainZone.ir
Luis Stitzinger - news
Nobukazu Kuriki - English blog
Cho Oyu
Al Filo Spanish team's website
Belgian expedition's website
Shisha Pangma
Romanian Expedition
Lesser Himalayan peaks:
Polish Nanda Devi East expedition
Moran's British Nanda Devi East expedition
Puryear and Gottlieb on Lunag Ri
Ben Clark - Baruntse updates
News on Russian Pumori and E-Gongga teams on RussianClimb
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