Ludo, Elisabeth and Antoine surrounded by their KKH drivers during the road-trip to Skardu some days ago. Image courtesy of Eli's expedition website (click to enlarge).
International Broad Peak Expedition's gear packed and ready to be sent to Islamabad. Image courtesy of Eelco Jansen's website (click to enlarge).
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Pakistan wrap-up: First climbers in Broad Peak BC - security update
Posted: May 27, 2009 11:00 am EST
(K2Climb.net/Madrid) Pakistan's climbing season is on again! While most expeditions are scheduled to kick off in June, Antoine Girard, Eli Revol and Ludo Gianbiasi have already arrived in Broad Peak’s BC.
During approach along the KKH, the French team avoided stopping for the night in Chilas due to security concerns – otherwise they reported no further problems. ExWeb’s correspondent Karrar Haidri has also updated on recent rumors speaking of an expedition leader’s kidnap – which finally proved inaccurate.
Broad Peak: French team first to reach BC
French Antoine Girard, Eli Revol and Ludo Gianbiasi landed in Pakistan two weeks ago, and reached Broad Peak’s BC on Sunday. “Our L.O. has just arrived in a helicopter, but otherwise we’re the only living souls in BC – how cool is that,” Ludo reported on Monday. The team hoped to reach 6,500m on a first acclimatization trip on Tuesday, but climbing plans were delayed due to strong winds.
During the approaching ride along the Karakorum Highway, Eli reported on some security concerns. “The trip is not safe anymore during the night,” she reckoned. “We prefer to drive non-stop, rather than spending a night in Chilas, since Taliban terrorists are reported to descend from Swat valley in the dark and loot convoys staying for the night in villages by the KKH.”
The expedition reported no incidents though, and Eli’s thoughts were otherwise focused on sad memories from her recent climb on Annapurna: Some months ago, Revol and Czech climber Martin Minarik reached Anna’s East summit, but Martin disappeared on descent in storm conditions.
“The stunning landscapes during the approaching trek are helping me to feel happy again among mountains,” Eli reflected. “Annapurna’s drama remains deep in my thoughts – but I am trying to focus on positive memories, revising all the magic moments I spent with Martin, when the way to go was dictated by the mountain and our bodies’ strength, not by our minds. Annapurna has taught me humility – it has reminded me that only the mountain decides on our fate.”
The team’s current goal is Broad Peak, although they might give K2 a try afterwards. “We’d rather see how go it goes on Broad Peak first, and then check conditions on K2 before making up our minds,” Antoine stated.
Eelco Jansen: Cargo on the way
“Our 22 barrels and medical box were sent on Monday to Saltoro Summits’ HQ in Islamabad,” International Broad Peak expedition leader Eelco JAnen reported. “Leo, Barbara, Geert and I had spent the previous day sorting everything out in Leo’s basement.“
Security update: Kidnapped foreigner not related to climbing expeditions
Rumors reached ExplorersWeb earlier this week, about the possible kidnapping of a foreign expedition leader. First-hand news from Pakistan tells a different story though.
“I am in close contact with Pakistan’ Ministry of Tourism and there is no news of any expedition leader being kidnapped,” ExWeb correspondent in Islamabad Karrar Haidri reported. “A French citizen has been kidnapped in Quetta as he arrived there from Iran, but that person is not related to climbing expeditions.”
Links to climbing teams in Pakistan 2009
Broad Peak:
Elisabeth Revol
Antoine Girard
Ludovic Giambasi
Eelco Jansen's blog
Karrar Haidri's Saltoro Summits
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