Go Mi-sun left) and Kim Jae-soo ticked off three 8000ers in spring and are now ready to summit three more. Images courtesy of Ang Karma/Windhorse Trekking (click to enlarge).
Pasang Lama worked with Go and Kim’s team on K2 last year, and is now member in Phil Crampton’s team.
LINKS
|
Pakistan wrap-up: 2008 Korean K2 expedition returning to Karakoram
Posted: Jun 16, 2009 11:25 am EDT
(K2Climb.net) Her team summited K2 at 5.30pm but only Go and Korean leader Kim Jae-soo survived the top - 5 other expedition members perished on descent. Three of the former expedition members are now returning to Karakoram; in two different teams.
Last summer, Korean female climber Go Mi-sun told Karrar Haidri that K2 became her 6th 8000er summit, and that her goal is to climb all 14 8000 meter peaks by the year 2011, with Kanchenjunga last on the list. Since then, Go has changed her mind.
Ready to try and bag no less than 7 summits in a year; following her Makalu-Kangchenjunga-Dhaulagiri triple this spring, she’s now headed for both Gasherbrums and Nanga Parbat, together with regular partner Kim Jae-Soo, and then Annapurna in fall.
Also heading for both Gasherbrums is Pasang Lama, fresh from summiting Makalu and Lhotse in spring. Pasang worked with Go and Kim’s team on K2 last year, and is now member in Phil Crampton’s team.
Santiago Quintero is attempting K2 while Bowie, Normand, McKinnon, Pierson and Fält are preparing to start the climb on GIII and GIV.
Korean Go; Sports-, Ice- and Ski-Mountaineering champ
After completing the first ever Nepal 8000ers hat-trick by summiting Makalu (April 30th), Kangchenjunga (May 19th) and Dhaulagiri (June 9th) in spring, Koreans Kim Jae-soo and Go Mi-sun are flying to Islamabad on Thursday, ready for Gasherburm I, Gasherbrum II and Nanga Parbat.
”Dhaulagiri was Go’s 10th 8000er and Kim’s 11th”, Windhorse trekking’s Ang Karma Sherpa told ExWeb from Nepal. It was also the Korean lady’s toughest climb, she told Ang Karma in an SMS. "We climbed for 25 hours non stop from camp III to summit and back due to the bad weather and ice showers constantly hitting our faces,” Mi-sun reported back then.
”With ten 8000+ meter peaks already tucked under her belt in an amazingly short time-span ( 2,5 years), the former Asian Women Sports Climbing, Asian Women Ice Climbing and Korean Women Mountaineering Ski champion, Go has menacingly entered the league of 5 top women climbers in their 'race' for the coveted title of the first women mountaineer to reach all fourteen 8000 meter summits,” Ang Karma added.
Should Go’s ambitious plans work out, she might get done with the task this year – by climbing Annapurna in fall, and bagging a record number of 7x8000ers in one year.
”Sherpa Tshiring Dorjee from Cheskam, Solukhumbu, who accompanied her on Makalu and Dhaulagiri, will be joining the expeditions to the Karakorum climbs,” Ang Karma ended. “The expedition is supported by Kolon Sport of Korea.”
Except for her first 8000er (Cho Oyu), Go Mi Sun has always climbed with Kim Jae-soo. They climbed K2 together last year, surviving the tragic serac fall at the Bottleneck which cost the lives of their mates and other climbers belonging to different expeditions.
2+2 8000ers in 2009: Pasang Lama headed for both Gasherbrums
Fresh from summiting Makalu and Lhotse in May, Pasang Lama is now aiming for two moe 8000ers. Working with Altitude Junkies/Project-Himalaya team, Pasang is currently on his way to Gasherbrum I and II.
Pasang was also a member in the previously mentioned Korean expedition on K2 last year.
K2: Santiago Quintero: K2 ahead
After summiting Makalu last year, Ecuadorian climber Santiago Quintero is in Islamabad ready for his main goal: K2, without porters or supplementary O2.
Having lost some toes to frostbite years ago, Santiago hopes the upcoming climb “will motivate peoples from all the sidewalks and latitudes of the world to pursue their 'unreachable' dreams and not surrender in face of life’s adversities,” he told ExplorersWeb. Santiago's project is called “K2 sin D2” (K2 without fingers).
GIII, GIV: Ready for the real deal
“The team has now established camp 1 at 6000 meters after nine days of work in the ice fall,” Team member David Fält‘s wife Camilla told ExplorersWeb. “Tomorrow they will venture towards the final camp and the start of the actual ascent of G3 and G4.”
”It has been a long lasting hard work as it has been snowing every afternoon for 12 days,” Camilla noted. “The weather is fine though and everybody are fresh and well, looking forward to see the icefall at the final approach. The team has been away for five days and is expected back at base camp today.”
Links to climbing teams in Pakistan 2009
Broad Peak:
Elisabeth Revol
Antoine Girard
Ludovic Giambasi
Eelco Jansen's blog
Field Touring Alpine
Karrar Haidri's Saltoro Summits
Serap Jangbu Sherpa
Adventure Tour Pakistan
K2
Fredrik Ericsson
Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner
Maxut Zhumayev
Fabrizio Zangrilli's blog
Santiago Quintero
Nick Rice
Nanga Parbat
Gerfried Göschl's blog
Louis Rousseau
Joao Garcia
Gasherbrums
Daniela Teixeira & Paulo Roxo
Philippe Gatta
Altitude Junkies' dispatches
Don Bowie
Valery Babanov
Kinga Baranowska
Colombian Camilo & Anna
|
