Image of the route by Desnivel.com. Oscar is between camp 2 and 3.
LINKS
|
Latok update: aerial contact with Oscar delayed in spite of good weather
Posted: Aug 13, 2009 12:14 pm EST
(K2Climb.net) 12 August, 2009 Expedition Peña Guara Latok II.
Report by: Fernando J. Perez
Translated by: Mara V. Larson
"The news is desperate. Efforts in Pakistan are proving to be slow and complicated, although officially it is said that there is total support of the local authorities."
"After waiting all morning to contact Sebastian Alvaro (of Al Filo de lo Imposible), finally he has been in contact with Peña Guara, very surprised, because the original flight program anticipated for today has not been completed this morning."
"The Spanish Embassy in Pakistan is focused on this rescue operation, and has since even moved an official to Skardu to make all the arrangements and procedures on the ground."
"The Chief of Army Staff of Pakistan has already issued orders to helicopter sections of Skari Aviation in Skardu to transfer as near as possible two North American alpinists to collaborate in the rescue and to carry out an aircraft reconnaissance to try to see Oscar Perez and also so that Oscar might see he is being looked after."
"Nevertheless, although the weather is good and officially the full support is available, incomprehensibly, the program has not been completed. Ultimately, 2 helicopters have taken off and deposited on the glacier of Biafo, on the south face of the mountain, 215 kilos of supplies, but at 8 kilometers from the pre-established location."
"Pakistani aviation argues that there are many crevasses and so it cannot land elsewhere. Also they have moved Alvaro Novellón and Fabricio Zangrilli to the southern slope, to reach as quickly as possible the wall and to aid Oscar, but have been unable to leave the load, but at a distance of about two hours trekking and waiting on the hope of another flight with the rest of the supplies."
Pakistani Army Air Corps helicopters and mountain climbers of diverse nationalities are immersed at the moment in a desperate attempt to rescue alive a climber from the wall of Latok, a massive peak of 7,125 meters in the heart of the Karakorum.
The Spanish mountain climber Oscar Perez, is at approximately 6,200 m of altitude with a broken leg and an arm immobilized after suffering an accident when he tried to scale it in alpine style with his companion Alvaro Novellón. The rescue has become a fight against the clock since Oscar already has spent seven days trapped on the wall with no tent, only a small sleeping bag to sleep in, a gas canister for making water and some basic food. The rescue goes on with the uncertainty of knowing if Oscar Perez remains alive, since he does not have means to communicate with the outside world.
A group of alpinists intend to climb to where he is and assist in descending with him on the unclimbed and unfixed route. Removing Oscar Perez by helicopter from the ledge is another, very dangerous option.
|
