File image of Andrew Lock, courtesy of his website (click to enlarge).
Italian team climber heading up the British route on Shisha Pangma's South face. Image courtesy of Roby Piantonni's website (click to enlarge).
Czech climbers on Cho Oyu summit last Thursday. Image courtesy of the Czech expedition website (click to enlarge).
Crevasse on Dhaulagiri. Image courtesy of the Chilean expedition's website (click to enlarge).
SummitClimb team members on Shisha's Central (secondary) summit last week. Image courtesy of SummitClimb (click to enlarge).
LINKS
|
Himalaya wrap-up: Lock celebrating his 14th 8000er, Miss Oh to give Annapurna a second try, Hiunchuli rescue attempt called off
Posted: Oct 05, 2009 10:09 am EST
(MountEverest.net) It’s been an action-packed weekend, with Miss Oh failing her first (but not last) summit push on Annapurna, and Andrew Lock celebrating the summit of his 14th 8000er - after a very tough climb to Shisha Pangma Main, with an open bivouac in a storm included.
Other teams on Shisha, Everest and Manaslu are preparing to set off as soon as weather conditions improve.
Sadly, hope is lost for the Korean climbers missing on Hiunchuli – the search has been called off.
Shisha Pangma – North side
Andrew Lock and Neil Ward climbed up a variation of the Iñaki route on Friday morning along with Alex Gavan, Nick Rice reported from Shisha’s North side BC.
Alex turned back with symptoms of HAPE. “On Saturday morning, we received news that Andrew and Neil had spent the night in a bivy around 7,600m and had only just reached Camp III. As night came, they stopped for the night in Camp I. Andrew and Neil did in fact summit the Main Summit.”
Back in BC yesterday, the summiteers confirmed the news.
Meanwhile, Dan Mazur’s SummitClimb team is safely back in BC – including Bart.
Other climbers are currently waiting for better conditions to follow in Andrew and Neil’s trace: American Nick Rice, Italian Marco Panzeri, Polish Kinga Baranowska and Romanian Horia Colibasanu.
Shisha Pangma – South side
The sun finally hit BC and Edurne’s spirits rose today. “Weather forecasts show an improvement from October 8th – wind will be still blowing strong o on the mountain’s upper sections, but we hope it will eventually decrease enough to let us launch a summit bid,” she reported.
“We’re back in BC after spending some days at altitude to improve our acclimatization,” Piantoni’s team reported. “Loaded with 20kg heavy backpacks, we headed up the British route,” The climbers reached as far as 6,600m in a two-days climb. “A beautiful climb up a 40º/55º steep couloir on snow and ice,” they said.
Annapurna
“Korean climbers (including Miss Oh) are back in Annapurna BC, aiming to launch another summit push by mid October,” ExWeb’s Korea correspondent Kyu Dam Lee reported. “D-day might be October 15th, weather permitting.”
Cho Oyu
“Four of us summited Cho Oyu on October 1st, after a 14-15 hours-long climb from C2 – we are currently back in BC,” Leopold Sulovski’s Czech team reported. The climbers went for Cho Oyu’s normal route after conditions on the SW side (where they had hoped to open a new route) proved too dangerous.
Hiunchuli
All efforts to find and rescue Korean climbers Min Jung-Young and Park Jong-Sung, missing on Hiunchuli for over a week, have proved useless. “We did our best, but found no trace of them,” Jik-Ji expedition members stated, according to local media.
“Among the 11 member-strong Jik-Ji expedition, some climbed Hiunchuli’s normal route, while other members (including the missing climbers) hoped to open a new route on the peak’s north face,” Kyu Dam Lee reported.
Dhaulagiri
Italians Cala and Ivo failed to reach C3 in a first summit attempt last weekend, due to bad weather. “We’re back and hoping to launch another summit bid in two days,” they reported in a later update yesterday.
“There’s wind and snow – it seems the storm will be with us for some time,” Chileans Rodrigo and Andrés reported yesterday. “Thanks to forecasts, we were able to reach C2 and return before the stormy spell set in though.”
Links to Himalayan fall 2009 expeditions:
Everest:
Basque team Hornbein expedition
Makalu:
Ueli Steck
Annapurna:
Oh Eun-sun
Shisha Pangma:
Edurne Pasaban
Ferran Latorre
Andrew Lock
Kinga Baranowska
Juanito Oiarzabal
Carlos Pauner
Nick Rice's dispatches
Romanian Expedition
Piantoni's Italian expedition
SummitClimb
Dhaulagiri
Chilean expedition
Italians Cala and Ivo
Manaslu:
Mexicans Badia & Mauricio
Altitude Junkies
Chilean Ski expedition
Guillaume Hintzy
Dream Guides team
Cho Oyu
Simone Moro - Cho Oyu SW face
Cho Oyu SW face Czech team
Mario Merelli
Argentinean team
Malta's Challenge8000
Alpine Ascents
Hvitserk
Adventure Consultants
IMG
Jagged-Globe
Reto Everest
Himalayan 7000ers:
FTA - Satopanth
Fabrizio Zangrilli - Pumori
Peak Freaks - Pumori
|
