Posted: Oct 13, 2009 01:57 pm EDT
(MountEverest.net) "The trouble is that nobody seems to want to aspire anymore," an American Hollywood celebrity (!) said in a US newscast yesterday. A British political correspondent commented: "acclaim comes not with accomplishment but with fame and so that's what people are chasing."

But great men don't need great awards, the newsman said, pointing out that Winston Churchill understood this when he refused a Dukedom offered to him by the Queen. Thinking about it, "finally I remembered that I must die as I have always been; Winston Churchill," the statesman reportedly recalled.

Back in Kathmandu after summiting the peak from its north side, Andrew Lock reflects today on his 14x8000er 'final' which took a burning aspiration few understand. So was it worth it? "The experience is all the richer for having worked hard for it," Andrew said, directing his thank-you speech to Shisha Pangma.

An the lesson continues. While some "mountaineers" are already back home enjoying local fame for false summits; on Shisha's south flank, nearly out of time and with high winds forecasted to hit hard all week, the real climbers are back in BC - and growing increasingly desperate.

Shisha Pangma south side

“We are back in BC, spent and pretty bummed,” reported Edurne Pasaban just a while ago. “Our Scott Bivouac camp is trashed, we are short on gear and the wind keeps howling. Forecasts say this will go on until October 20th, exactly when our climbing permit expires.”

“Still we refuse to quit, hoping that a new weather forecast will show a change. Should that happen we might launch another attempt by October 15th. If not, our chances are out.”

“The wind blew strong at ABC last night,” Roby Piantoni chimed in. “I was sure it would decrease by sunrise as forecasts had announced, but it didn't. The day brought glorious sunshine but the wind was still hitting us in 60-80 Km/h gusts. We waited for yet another forecast – which turned out even worse: the wind was expected to reach 100Km/h at 7000m on the next day.”

“We finally returned to BC, where we are currently waiting. High winds are expected to remain without variation for some days… Meanwhile, Adriando and Vero have done a last acclimatization trip up to 6,200m on the Slovenian route.”

Shisha Pangma north side

”Neil and I are still pretty tired and the stairs at the hotel are a challenge in themselves but its good to be eating real food and getting the odd hot shower,” Andrew Lock reported at arrival back in Kathmandu on Sunday.

”I've received a few requests for specifics about the route we climbed -whether it was the '80s Austrian route or the '00s Inaki route,” Lock noted. “I think it might have been a combination of both. I think the Austrians traversed the north face above a large serac band whilst Inaki went below. We also went below."

"From there I'm not too sure which line the various parties took. We went to the left of the 3 fingers of rock that rise from around 7700 metres to 7800 metres, and from there went straight up to the summit ridge. Then along/up the ridge to the top. Those who care can fight over the 'name' of the route. We just enjoyed the climb.”

”Climbing Shisha was more than just reaching the top of an 8000er for me,” Andrew said. “It was the final peak in my quest to climb all fourteen of the 8000ers and it was also the first Austalian ascent of that mountain's true summit. So it was a lot of reward for a tough climb and the experience is all the richer for having worked hard for it. I think the bivy on the way down was Shisha's way of letting us know that we'd been 'allowed' the summit but shouldn't get too cocky about it.”

”Sooooo - have I finished with 8000 metre climbing? No. I have at least one more climb I'd like to do next year in the pre-monsoon season (details to be announced later). Stay tuned!”

Links to Himalayan fall 2009 expeditions:

Everest:
Basque team Hornbein expedition

Makalu:
Ueli Steck

Annapurna:
Oh Eun-sun

Shisha Pangma:
Edurne Pasaban
Ferran Latorre
Andrew Lock
Kinga Baranowska
Juanito Oiarzabal
Carlos Pauner
Nick Rice's dispatches
Romanian Expedition
Piantoni's Italian expedition
SummitClimb

Dhaulagiri
Chilean expedition
Italians Cala and Ivo

Manaslu:
Mexicans Badia & Mauricio
Altitude Junkies
Chilean Ski expedition
Guillaume Hintzy
Dream Guides team

Cho Oyu
Simone Moro - Cho Oyu SW face
Cho Oyu SW face Czech team
Mario Merelli
Argentinean team
Malta's Challenge8000
Alpine Ascents
Hvitserk
Adventure Consultants
IMG
Jagged-Globe
Reto Everest

Himalayan 7000ers:

FTA - Satopanth
Fabrizio Zangrilli - Pumori
Peak Freaks - Pumori

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