A delicate traverse on the summit ridge. All images by Christian Trommsdorff courtesy of Mountain.ru (click to enlarge).
Exit point from the south face onto the summit ridge (click to enlarge).
"It is maybe the most beautiful route we have ever done - steep, sustained and constantly exposed," Christian ensured (click to enlarge).
Christian (or Yannick?) on the higest point reached (click to enlarge).
Nemjung's south face (click to enlarge).
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Another alpine-style Himalayan first: Graziani & Trommsdorff climb Nemjung’s south face
Posted: Nov 05, 2009 11:10 am EST
(MountEverest.net/Madrid) Further reports are pouring about of new routes forged in alpine style on Himalayan big walls. Next up are Yannick Graziani and Christian Trommsdorff, right back at home in Chamonix after climbing Nemjung’s 2,400 meters-long south face.
Originally planning to give Manaslu a try, loads of snow and lack of acclimatization they were caught in bad weather after just some days in BC) made them turn their aims towards the nearby Nemjung (7140m). The stormy spell kept the climbers stuck in BC for yet 12 more days, but then a last-minute weather window let them jump on the peak’s south face.
Maybe, our most beautiful route ever
It took 6 days on the wall to complete the 2,400m-long, 45 pitches (plus 25% of the route in simu-climbing), ED+ route. “The itinerary goes on ridges, across and along snow-flutes, fantastic gullies and mixed sections,” Trommsdorff told Mountain.ru. “Otherwise, it is maybe the most beautiful route we have ever done - steep, sustained and constantly exposed.”
The new line reaches up to the top of the face, but the climbers didn't cover the last meters to the actual summit. “We would have needed another bivy in order to follow the rather flat and long ridge to the summit, but the weather-window was closing, and I felt too weak after being hit on the head by a chunck of ice the previous day -so we turned around” Christian explained.
“We free-climbed the entire route. Our gear list was: 2x60 twin ropes, 4 ice screws (not enough!!!), 6 friends, a few nuts, 10 pitons and a few slings," Christian noted. "The route includes no objective dangers but a short traverse under a big serac. Also, the gully behind the first tower has some mixed sections with very poor rock.”
Chamonix' mountain guides Yannick Graziani and Christian Trommsdorff are devoted to new routes and alpine style in the Himalayas, usually teaming up with Patrick Wangon. Together, they've signed a remarkable number of cool new lines on Nepal and Pakistan 7000ers and 7000ers.Latest ascents before Nemjung's were Chomo Lonzo's and Pumari Chhish's. Last year the team attempted a new route on K2's SW face.
Christian also summited Everest without supplementary O2 in 2001. He is the current president of France's GHM (Groupe de Haute Montagne/High Mountain Group), and then amn in charge to update and re-launch the Piolet d'Or Awards last year.
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