Carlos climbing on Dome Kang, March 2009 (click to enlarge).
Dome Kang's new route topo (click to enlarge).
File image of Carlos Soria on Makalu summit, spring 2008. All images courtesy of Carlos Soria's website (click to enlarge).
Young at Heart: ExWeb interview with Carlos Soria
Posted: Dec 02, 2009 10:27 pm EST
"Too young! Mid-life crisis! Too old!"
Some scientists have found that due to routine most people stop to think outside the box by age 40 (some even at 30). They also quit sports about that time and by 60+ most retire altogether.
Act your age, we are told, but recent records (junior and senior) in the world of extreme adventure beg the question: what age is that, exactly? This year Spanish Carlos Soria achieved a new route on Dome Kang and one of the few (real) GI summits of the season. He barely stopped to celebrate his 70th birthday.
Since he topped out K2 at age 65, Carlos has in fact been smashing Himalaya age records one after the other. With eight 8000ers done, Carlos plans to climb the rest by 75, keeping in shape on the Seven Summits meanwhile.
Currently back from Carstenz Pyramid and preparing for Kili and two more 8000ers next year; the veteran climber took a break in his daily training for a chat with ExWeb's Angela Benavides.
ExplorersWeb: After so many expeditions in altitude, how did the Carstenz jungle compare?
Carlos Soria: Oh god it was tough! Not the climb itself, which is nothing remarkable, but the approach! Some people get an airlift right to the base of the mountain but I did the trek, which basically means three days of soaked rainforest scramble, sinking in mud up to our knees. My feet ended up so blistered I couldnt use boots on the climb instead, I wore sneakers and two pairs of socks with a plastic bag in between. But it was a lot of fun.
ExplorersWeb: You've had a great climbing year, with Dome Kang and GIs summits
Carlos: Yeah Dome Kang was just amazing: a virgin summit just for us to explore and climb. Hidden Peak took a long fight with bad weather and some bitter moments.
(Ed. Note: Fellow Spanish Luis Barbero, who shared climbing permit with Soria, was lost while attempting GII in bad conditions and very late in the day. A stormy spell and high avalanche risk thwarted all rescue attempts.)
ExplorersWeb: By the way, yours was a real summit, proved and checked some other claims are being discussed though
Carlos: Really well, I guess you mean the Iranians watching them in BC celebrating a summit they had not actually reached was shocking of sorts. I mean, it is great of them that they got that far on the mountain they deserve to feel happy and proud about it; but they didnt top-out, thats how things are. A summit is a summit, not somewhere near the highest point; no exceptions should be made to the rule.
Then I read some blog comments doubting Miss Oh Eun Suns summit which is unfair. We reached the top together, in very bad weather. The Korean lady climbed without O2, together with her two Sherpas (one used O2, the other didnt) - both are extremely good climbers. In fact, the two Nepalese contributed a great deal to our own success: the wind was so high on our summit day that we eventually considered to call the attempt off. But the Sherpas stayed optimistic and strong; and their enthusiasm motivated us all to carry on.
ExplorersWeb: Theres been an alarming high number of false claims this year though to the point that one ends up wondering whether climbers statements are less honest than before
Carlos: I dont think so. Liars have always been around, no matter the season. Perhaps more people are watching these days, and so those who lie are caught faster and their false statements are made public. The percentage is the same its just that there are more climbers around.
ExplorersWeb: Youve been climbing in Himalaya since the early 70s have you seen many changes?
Carlos: Since I first visited the Himalayas - in 1973 - I've seen an amazing increase in the number of expeditions. In 1986 we were alone in BC on Everest north side and look at it now! The large numbers make the climbs easier since there are more people around to break trail, fix ropes, share work, etc
But the basics are still the same. Of course, with more people you'll find all kinds of human characters but climbers in general are still a nice bunch I really think the great majority are honest and helpful and I feel great in their company!
Exweb Interview with Carlos Soria, final: things to do after retirement
Carlos Soria was born in Avila, Spain, 70 years ago. A current Madrid resident, he has summited eight 8000ers, 4 of them after the age of 65.
In 2009, Carlos climbed Dome Kang, a 7000er in the Kangchenjunga region, via a new route and summited GI on August 3rd, together with fellow Spaniards, Marta Alejandre, Oskar Porras, Unai Zendoia, Arkaitz Lasa; South Korean Oh Eun-Sun and Nepalese Dawa Wangchuk Sherpa.
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