Kwangde Lho's north face. Routes marked in red from left to right: Japanese route WI6 M5, Breashears-Lowe WI6 M?A?, French (Benoist) route WI5+. Image courtesy of Simone Moro (click to enlarge).
After attempting GIII and GIV in summer, Swedish David Falt (in image) is back to the Himalayas for a taste of winter climbing (click to enlarge).
12x8000er summiteer before 35 - Kazakh Vassiliy Pivtsov. Image courtesy of David Falt.
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Winter Himalaya action ahead: Falt and Pivtsov for Kwangde Lho!
Posted: Dec 08, 2009 05:59 pm EST
(MountEverest.net) Comparing routes, style and proper cool-value in Himalaya becomes much easier in winter. Usually, there's no one there.
But just as we started to prepare for another deserted season, Vassily Pivtsov (33) and David Falt (38) unwrapped their plans for Nepal’s’ Kwangde Lho (6187m): a cool new route up the peak’s north face in alpine style and within strict calendar winter.
Trained in Kazakhstan Army’s hard-core mountain division, Pivtsov has already bagged 12x8000ers without supplementary O2, while Swedish Falt returns recovered from a crevasse fall that thwarted his latest Himalayan expedition, on GIII and GIV past summer.
North face – if possible
Teaming up for the first time, the Kazakh-Swedish combo’s prime goal is a new route on the peak’s north face, but there is a plan B. “If conditions looks too thin on our targeted route, we will attempt the second ascent of 1982’ Breashears-Lowe route (ED2, WI6, 1200m),” the team said.
“The North Face is about 1300 meters in vertical height and has 7 routes that we know of,” David and Vasso added. “They are all highly technical: ED, Ice pitches never easier than WI5 and mixed sections between M5 and M8. We expect steep ice, rock and mix terrain.”
Altitude + cold weather experience
The climbers bring different skills to the table. Young Vassily’s vast Himalayan experience has been focused towards completing the 14 8000ers, while David is an expert cold climber, with 45 plus winter accents in the Alps up to ED3.
Member of three previous Himalayan expeditions: Falt was part of a Swedish team establishing a new route (ED-) on the previously unclimbed Hunza Peak 6270 in alpine style, two alpine style attempts on Shani (5885 m), and the recent Gasherbrum IV expedition.
Falt and Pivtsov will hit Khumbu valley towards BC in January 2010.
David Falt, born in Sweden, started climbing in 1986, bagging 45 plus winter ascents in the Alps up to ED3. David undertook his first Himalayan expedition at 18; two years later he was part of a Swedish team establishing a new route (ED-) on the previously unclimbed Hunza Peak 6270 in alpine style, 1991. David also launched two alpine style attempts on Shani (5885 m). In summer 2009, Falt joined Don Bowie, Bruce Normand, Guy McKinnon and Billy Pierson for an attempt on GIII/GIV; from where David was airlifted after a crevasse fall.
Trained in the tough Pamir-Tien Shan ranges since a very young age, Kazakh Vassiliy ("Vasso") Pivtsov has accomplished a series of remarkable Himalayan climbs. Still only in his 30s', he has already bagged 12x8000ers - with only K2 and Lhotse left.
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