Both Italian teams worked together yesterday to fix ropes up to Makalu La Col, at 7400m; then returned to ABC. Along the route, the Italians have found some gear possibly belonging to Jean-Christophe Lafaille who went missing on Makalu in January 2006. Image of Italians approaching Makalu La, courtesy of Daniele Nardi (click to enlarge).
Gerlinde reported on Monday from “upper” C2, at 7240m on Kangchenjunga. She, Ralf, Veikka, Hirotaka and Andrew Lock are breaking trail to C3 as acclimatization before their definitive summit push. Image by Veikka Gustafsson of Ralf in C2, courtesy of Amical (click to enlarge).
Palencia team member, and Carlos Soria and Nuria Garcia are leaving BC between today and tomorrow. Divided into two groups, they will supply C2 and set up C3 before returning to BC. Image of team members digging a ledge to pitch a tent in C2, courtesy of Carlos Soria (click to enlarge).
Colombian Camilo Lopez, climbing independently on Dhaulagiri, has set up and spent two nights in C2. During that time alone, he says his emotions have varied from sheer happiness to deep loneliness. Image of the climber in his tent, courtesy of Camilo Lopez (click to enlarge).
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Himalaya wrap-up: Dhaula success, Lafaille’s trace, climbers’ solidarity and summit pushes
Posted: May 03, 2006 09:57 am EDT
(MountEverest.net) Several strategies can be followed on the same mountain, as we’ve just seen on Dhaulagiri: While some teams set up two or three higher camps, a bold Kazakh pair launched a single summit push which put them on the top yesterday. No other team has confirmed the news yet.
On Makalu, Italian climbers have found some gear probably belonging to Jean Christophe Lafaille, who disappeared on the mountain a few months ago.
Germans have launched a summit push on Manaslu, and Mondineli’s team could be trying to reach the top of Shisha Pangma right now.
Lhotse
Mario Merelli: Thanks for helping Walter
Mario’s team has updated us on the state of team member Walter Berardi, who was injured on May 1 when a chunk of ice struck his head on the first section of the Khumbu icefall.
As team leader, Mario Merelli wanted to thank all climbers and Sherpas who ran to the rescue and helped Walter down.
Now, the remaining team members will proceed up to C2 as soon as the weather permits. Simone Moro accompanied the injured climber to Kathmandu.
Simone Moro: Nurse operation
Simone Moro has reported today from Kathmandu, where he is taking care of injured Italian climber Walter Berardi.
“Everybody, Sherpas and foreign climbers, helped Walter down,” Simone recalled.
“I’ve offered myself to accompany him to Kathmandu in the chopper, as an interpreter. Walter is doing OK, he has nothing broken and apparently no brain injuries. He will fly back to Italy tomorrow, and I’ll take a helicopter back to BC, in order to resume my climb as soon as possible.”
Norwegians: To C2
The Norwegian team on Lhotse, led by Sven Gangdal, planned to leave BC for C2 today.
Makalu
Italians at 7400m following Lafaille’s trace
Both Italian teams worked together yesterday to fix ropes up to Makalu La Col, at 7400m; then returned to ABC. Along the route, the Italians have found some gear possibly belonging to French climber Jean-Christophe Lafaille who went missing on Makalu in January 2006 while attempting to climb the peak solo and in winter. Apparently, Katia Lafaille and the deceased climber’s two children are expected in ABC during the upcoming days.
Dhaulagiri
Kazakhs: Single-push summit
Kazakh young guns Maxut and Vasiliy summited Dhaulagiri yesterday after a single push in fairly bad conditions. They hoped to reach C1 today. Read more in a separate story published earlier today.
Palencia team+Carlos Soria: The last preparatory climb
The Palencia team, including Carlos Soria and Nuria Garcia are leaving BC sometime between today and tomorrow. Divided into two groups, the climbers will supply C2 and set up C3 before returning to BC. This way both teams will be ready to attempt the summit on their next trip.
Camilo Lopez: Acclimatization done
Colombian Camilo Lopez, climbing independently, has set up and spent two nights in C2. During that time alone, he says his emotions have varied from sheer happiness to deep loneliness.
Regardless, he is back in BC and ready for a summit push. Camilo is apparently not setting a third camp; instead he will go for the summit from C2 on his next trip up.
Manaslu
Germans: Summit push
The team has already set up and supplied C1, C2, and C3. After some much needed rest, the Adventure Train team departed BC yesterday hoping to spend a night in each Camp and hopefully reach the summit before the end of the week.
Kangchenjunga
Ralf & Gerlinde: Breaking trail to C3
Gerlinde reported on Monday from “upper” C2, at 7240m on Kangchenjunga. Last Saturday the team (Ralf, Gerlinde, Hirotaka, and Veikka, plus Andrew Lock) left BC on an acclimatization trip which had them spend the night in C1; they spent Sunday night in a “lower” C2 at 6400m.
Yesterday’s plan was to open trail on the route to C3, and signal the way with bamboo poles. Afterwards they’ll return to BC.
Shisha Pangma
Mondinelli: C2 – or summit?
Silvio Mondinelli and the Italians left for C2 last weekend. Depending on the conditions they find, they will return to ABC after setting up camp - or will proceed to the summit. News is expected soon.
Jarle Traa: C1 ready
Norwegian Jarle Tra is currently in ABC, after setting up and supplying C1.
Links to teams on Himalayan 8000ers:
Ralf's Amical (German) | Andrew Lock | Ivan Vallejo | Norbert Joos’ Kangchenjunga dispatches (German) | Joao Kangchenjunga’s blog | Simone Moro | Mario Merelli | Norwegian Lhotse | Chilean Lhotse | Tunc Findic (Turkish) | Italian Makalu team (Italian) | Italian D. Nardi’s Makalu dispatches (Italian) | Czerwinska & Natkanski’s Makalu Entre.Pl Xpedition | Valeri Babanov | Iñaki Ochoa (Spanish) | Manaslu Adventure Train German team (German) | Nives Meroi (Italian) | Carlos Pauner (Spanish) | Palencia team Dhaulgiri | Iranians on Dhaulagiri | Dutch Dhaulagiri expedition | Friendship Beyond Borders | DCXP | Jagged Globe| Silvio Mondinelli| Jarle Traa (Norwegian)
| Latvian Shisha team (Latvian)
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