Posted: May 07, 2010 09:30 am EDT
(ExWeb/Madrid) After setting up C2 on the SE ridge, four members in the British Services expedition helped American Chris Warner, ill with serious respiratory problems. However, he managed to descend under his own power on the following day, after the rescue chopper was grounded in bad weather.

The story ended well, with all climbers safely back in BC and Chris airlifted to KTM today.

Here is Phyl Scott's recount of events:

"The week's group consisted of Dick and Matt, and Rob and myself. Our arrival at Camp 2 coincided with Marty Schmitt and Chris Warner’s arrival at the same sheltered (?!) coll," Phyl Scott reported. "The American pair and their support team have become firm friends with our team over the last few weeks; their goal, a new route on the south west face of Makalu."

Chopper grounded - descent mandatory

"Our second day at Camp 2, camped eerily close below the Black Gendarme, saw Chris develop some serious symptoms. With communications back to our BC down, myself and Rob crammed into their tent and between the four of us we tried to work out what was going on. Later, following sat-phone calls ‘state-side’ to proper medical professionals, a serious respiratory cause for Chris’ symptoms seemed likely. Not good."

"Global Rescue (not International Rescue – yes they really do exist!) were called and a helicopter evacuation was planned for yesterday morning. By 11:30hrs we were all still hunkered down in our small mountain tents with yet more poor weather in bound and bad weather expected over the next 3 days. Descent was necessary."

Battling the elements

"Marty was certain that the recent heavy snow fall meant their route was impassable – high avalanche risk and covered crevasses. Accepting our offer to guide them down our route, we were soon on our way as a party of 6. Dick and Matt broke trail, next up were Chris and Marty, lastly was Rob and myself."

"Marty was set on making it to BC – over 2000m of vertical descent and a technical ridge traverse of 3000m. It is with sincere and humbled respect to Chris I can report that although benighted (arriving at BC at 8pm), we battled the elements and persevered for over 8 hours thankfully without incident. It was a pleasure to climb with two such consummate professionals and thoroughly genuine gentlemen. Chris and Marty accepted our offer of hospitality and lodged at our BC last night. Early this morning Chris was picked up by helicopter and evacuated to Kathmandu. Everyone here at the British Services team wish him the speediest recovery."

Chris and Marty had launched a summit push on may 1st, but loads of fresh snow forced them to change their minds by Tuesday. According to a report from BC on Tuesday, the two climbers hoped to reach as higher as possible towards 7500meters and get a view of the eastern cwm before heading back to Base Camp.

Phyl describes the route to C2 as "sustained technical ground; bullet blue ice for most of the ridge; no-where to hide from the wind; and huge drops falling to infinity all contribute to making every movement a conscious one."

Links to Makalu 2010 teams

Chris Warner & Marty Schmidt

Field Touring Alpine

British SE ridge expedition

Russian Climb

Chris Klinke

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