Storm in Dhaulagiri BC.
Image by Richard Bolt courtesy R.Bolt/Kari Kobler & Partner
Wind and sun hitting Makalu.
courtesy British Armed forces Makalu 2010 expedition, SOURCE
Himalaya wrap-up 2nd update: Shisha summiteers safe in C2, Makalu summit push, casualties reported on Dhaula and Cho Oyu
Posted: May 17, 2010 03:30 pm EDT
(Story updated 11.45 am) Brand new 14x8000er summiteer Edurne Pasaban and her team are resting in C2 on Shisha, while the Italians hoped to reach BC already tonight. On Makalu, uncertain weather is halting teams on summit push but the Ukranians will go for it tonight.
New reports from Dhaulagiri speak of three Chinese climbers perished during a summit push in the storm, and on Cho Oyu a climber reportedly passed away during the night in C2.
While waiting at the North Col, Alex Abramov and three members summited the nearby Changtse (7,550m).
After so many years of struggle I am so happy! an emotional Edurne said over the radio to BC from Shisha Pangma Main summit. I can name all the persons I am grateful for this but most of all I thank my family, my friends, supporters and the ones lost on the way. Pasaban has finished her 14x8000ers quest on Shisha Main summit today.
We had some wind and snow at first, Mario Panzeri told his wife, according to Montagna.org. Otherwise weve enjoyed pretty good conditions; in fact, we summited rather early.
Juan Ramón de Madariaga team needed 9 hours to reach the summit. They are resting for the night in C2. All team members topped-out but for Pepe and Jose Luis, the expedition home team reported.
Edurne and Madariaga teams are spending the night in C2; Italians Mario, Michele and Alberto hoped to climb back all the way down to BC today.
Dhaulagiri: Rescue report from BC
Weve had no summit push chances yet the window last week was too narrow, risks too high; we are all waiting in BC, expect for two team members forced back to Switzerland due to lack of further expedition time, Kari Kobler team leader Richard Bolt reported.
A Chinese expedition hoped to summit on the mountain 50th anniversary on May13th. So, in spite of bad weather forecasts, 7 climbers and 7 sherpas set off from BC on May 11th.
According to Richard, the Chinese used O2 from C1, and proceeded in spite of increasing wind. On summit day, their pace was so slow that they only reached the summit by nightfall and had to force a bivouaq through the stormy night.
Conditions were too bad for us to consider a rescue operation, Bolt, a UIAGM Mountain guide stated. Luckily, a short improvement in conditions and the presence of the highly skilled Swiss Pilots from Air Zermat (jointly with Fishtail) in Nepal, permitted the B3 chopper to fly and perform an amazing rescue at 6,500m, retrieving the surviving Chinese and Sherpas.
Three Chinese climbers lost their lives according to the report. A previous news report by state press agency Xinhua said one Chinese climber had perished on Dhaula.
In a later update today from the Himalayan rescue service -a cooperation of Fishtail Air and Air Zermatt- it is reported that the service rescued seven climbers from an altitude of 6800 meter and 6100 meter. The rescue crew used two different approaches (human sling operation and hovering) to evacuate the seven wounded Chinese mountaineers and Sherpa's.
Since the beginning of the current season, the new rescue service has performed rescue operations at altitude on Manaslu, Annapurna, Everest, Dhaulagiri and a number of 6000er and 7000ers.
Cho Oyu: Lost climber in C2
Taking advantage of good weather during the weekend, SummitClimb team (leader Max, Mia, Alex and Palden Sherpa) went up to C2 on an acclimatization trip. Cho Oyu Camp 2 is higher than any mountain outside of the Himalaya at 7100 metres/23,300 feet, Max pointed out.
We'll head to ABC tomorrow, so we'll be ready to leave for the summit on the 21st or 22nd.
There was a member from another team that wasn't too lucky with the acclimatization and passed away at 6700 metres, Max added. Our sherpas, Ang Gelu and Ngima Kanchha, went down there today to help with recovering the body.
IMG leader Eric Remza reported yesterday from C3 his was the only team in position for a summit bid today. No news were reported on the expedition website at the time of editing this story.
Makalu: uncertain weather
Fabrizio Zangrilli and FTA team were in C2 Saturday, checking uncertain forecasts in order to decide on whether to go up to C3 or return to BC. A French team also in C2 were waiting until today before making decisions.
Today, the team checked in from BC, where they will wait for a weather window expected for may 20-21st.
"They got some good additional acclimatization but did not waste energy or reserves trying to gain height in very strong winds," the team stated. "As predicted, the winds rose quite a bit on the 16th."
According to the SE ridge British team skies reminded clear today. While the Brits are fixing the route to C3, they reported on the Ukrainians approaching the summit:
We have heard that the Ukrainian Team are due to push for the summit from their Camp 5 at midnight tonight under light from head torches, thus making them true mountain ninjas, they posted yesterday.
Both Zangrilli and the Brits reported on a large number of climbers hoping to launch summit pushes asap: action is expected as weather improves later this week.
Changtse (Everest North Peak): Abramov & Co. summit
7- Summits Club Everest north side team leader Alexander Abramov, Sirdar of the expedition Sirdar Mingma Gelu and porters Nima Wangdi and Pemba Nurbah summited Chagtse (7,550m) yesterday morning. The mountain is also known as Everest North Peak.
The climb took 6 hours, home team crew reported. The route was quite difficult: 4B - 5A, Russian degree. Alexander Abramov has compared it to the classic route on Khan-Tengri from the Saddle:A lot of mixed climbing using ice tools and ice screws.
I'm happy, Abramov stated. Ive been admiring that summit since 2000 - no one has climbed it for 10 years. After toppingout the group returned to the North Col (7000 m.).
Chris Warner & Marty Schmidt
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