Posted: May 10, 2006 10:18 am EDT
(MountEverest.net) Paul and Fiona Adler have reported on a Czech Lhotse climber falling above Camp 3 yesterday. He was found badly injured this morning by Sherpas heading for the South Col. The unidentified climber reportedly died on the way down.

It comes as a sad reminder of the 1996 tragedy which took the lives of eight people including guides Rob Hall and Scott Fischer, exactly 10 years ago today - making it one of the deadliest days in the mountain's history. For further info check stories previously published on MountEverest.net, and today’s Himalaya wrap-up.

On the North side excitement is increasing as a number of climbers have started up for the summit. There are reports on traffic jams at fixed ropes, and a large number of climbers progressing above the North Col. On the south side pushes are also around the corner – climbers will rush up as soon as the Sherpas finish fixing the route.

Everest North

Brazilians: “People are getting anxious”

“Several people are departing ABC today for the summit,” said Rodrigo Raineri, celebrating his 40th birthday today in ABC. The Brazilians are not rushing up though. “All these going up today are climbing on O2. The weather is not yet good enough. Vitor and I are climbing without supplementary O2, and thus we need a real good weather window – we hope that will happen by the beginning of next week, and then we will go up. If the forecasts are wrong, no problem either. We will just go down, rest and wait for the next chance.”

Comarques Gironines: Summit push on

The Spanish team members are in ABC. After studying the forecasts, they’re going up this weekend, hoping to summit by May 17.

Disabled climber Mark Inglis (Himex): Summit push in two teams

"Today Himex’s Team 1 headed out of ABC for the North Col and higher, planning at this stage to summit on Saturday the 13th,” reported double amputee Mark Inglis. “Team 2 will follow tomorrow; summit day planned for Sunday the 14th. This is both an exciting time for everyone and a nerve racking time for Russ (leader Russell Brice) who is stage managing the whole show.”

“We have chosen to head for the summit instead of the traditional rest at BC because all the team is in great health and the calm weather has not worn out the team. Then, we’re divided into two teams mostly to limit congestion on summit day and optimize logistics.”

“Speaking of logistics, this year Russ has had his Sherpas fix all the rope on the north side of Everest (from the bottom of the North Col wall to the very summit. 5400m of rope, freight, taxes, anchor gear, Sherpa's wages and their safety gear (including Oxygen), costs over $32,000USD! So far, the ropes have looked like a highway, the only problem is recovering the cost as all climbers are using the ropes. So far, only 12 expeditions have paid up ($11,600), Himex is currently shouldering the extra cost, which is a shame when it is only $100 per climber, Sherpa's are free!”

DCXP: Watching the traffic jam from below

“After spending 2 to 3 days up at the North Col we're as ready as can be for our summit push sometime in the next few weeks,” reported DCXP/Project Himalaya team leader Scott Woolums.

“A lot of people are moving up for early summit pushes. The fixed lines are jammed with up traffic; lots of people this morning were walking out of the North Col with Oxygen on heading up. It has been a very amazing weather break for this time of the year, one of the best I have seen.”

“We are going to be a little more conservative and look towards a bit later in May. It may be a very good thing to let a bunch of teams summit and then the rest of the season will be a lot less crowded. There really are a lot of teams on the North side this year.”

7Summits/7Summits-club: Webcams, Poisk O2 and plans

“After long delays due to the cold Russian winter, finally our oxygen arrived a few days ago and it is now already in ABC,” reported Harry Kikstra. “Many expeditions had delivery problems and apparently the black market prices of 2nd hand and not so trustworthy bottles had increased a lot. But we will only use Poisk, straight from the factory, all 200 bottles!”

The team has divided into two big groups. The first team has been at the North Col for two nights. The second team leaves BC today.

“We’ve installed 2 cams in BC, one is pointing towards Everest, so you can see the current weather; the other is either showing the overview of BC or is placed inside one of our many tents,” said Harry.

Tomas Olsson: Everest powder confirmed

“I, Thor Granheim and photographer Fredrik Schenholm have been in Tibet for more than a month already,” reported Swedish ski-skier Tomas Olsson. “We have skied from about 7500m twice.”

“We are now resting a couple of days in a Tibetan village before heading up the mountain again with the ambition to ski from the summit and down the north face!

Everest South

Paul and Fiona Adler: Accident at the Lhotse face – Czech climber reported dead

Details are still sketchy, but the Adlers have posted a new report with bad news.

“We woke this morning to hear that a Czech climber on Lhotse had fallen overnight and had just been found in the snow on the face below the Yellow Band,” reported Paul Adler. “He was found by Sherpas heading up to the South Col. They had him on oxygen pretty soon, and moved him over to the fixed line. They were joined by a doctor from the Chilean team (currently climbing Lhotse). They then attempted to get him down to the tents at camp 3, but by the time they got him there he was pronounced dead by the doctor.”

Mallorca: Meetings and new summit planned dates

Mallorca Spanish team members have organized a team leaders’ meeting to coordinate route fixing tasks. “Attempting the summit on May 14 seems too early now. Next possible date could be May 18,” they reported. “Kari Kobler’s Swiss team could be in charge of coordinating a group of Sherpas, in order to fix the route from the South Col to the summit of Everest.”

Harry Farthing -Schools Around the World: Sherpas fixing up the route

“Back at ABC now after five nights on the mountain – four at Camp 2 at 6,400m and one at Camp 3 at 7,000m,” reported Harry Farthing, member of Jagged Globe team. “Our acclimatization has now finished and we are resting and technically waiting for our summit attempt.”

"At this moment our Sherpas are working flat out from Camp 2 to prepare Camp 4 on the South Col at 8,000m, although as far as we know no-one has gone beyond Camp 4 yet from our side of the mountain. They are up on the Geneva Spur again today checking the ropes.

"Not being a Sherpa, the last six days have been a bit of roller-coaster and I freely admit that I have been right up against it at times. It’s a hard mountain that’s for sure.” Harry had to be helped by Jagged Gloe team leader Kenton Cool to reach camp 3, who provided Harry with O2 to finish the climb.

"Next trip up hopefully we will go C2, C3, then C4 to summit. For now though we need to rest and start studying the weather forecasts. There is a plan but sorry, no details at the moment! I am now off down to Dingboche at 4,400 m today for 3 days to eat and live in the thicker air and hopefully get some strength back for the summit attempt.”

Kari Kobler’s Swiss team: C4 supplied

Yesterday the team’s Sherpas returned to BC after supplying the tents in C4 with gear, food and O2.

Singapore-Malaysia: Up and down

“I am currently in Deboche,” reported Malaysian Vincent Loh. “I will be resting here for two days.”

“Khoo has reported that he is now at Camp 2 and has visited camp 3 earlier. He will ascend to Camp 3 to stay for a night tomorrow, after making a visit to Camp 4. He will proceed to sleep at Camp 4 before returning to Base camp. We will then attempt our summit from then on. His acclimatization process is different from mine as he is climbing without the aid of supplemental oxygen.”

Alpine Ascents: Deboche rest

AA team members are enjoying the rich air and blooming rhododendron in Deboche.

Adventure Consultants: Remembering 1996 tragedy

“It is with sadness in my heart that I remember Rob Hall, Andy Harris, Yasuko Namba, Doug Hansen and Scott Fischer who were lost on Everest 10 years ago today,” reported AA’s director Guy Cotter. “I think often about the effect their passing had on my life and the lives of their friends and families. My love and thoughts go out to all.”

Mark Squirrel: Back from Pheriche by May 13

Mark, member of the Ice 8000 team, is currently resting in Pheriche, but hopes to start his summit bid on Saturday.

Links to teams on Everest North:
Russian Climb | UK Army 's West ridge expedition | Ecuadorians w/o Limits (Spanish) | Tomas Olsson's Blog | Swedish Everest NFace Sky-ski team | Swedish Everest NFace Sky-ski team - English dispatches | Everestmax | Joby Ogwyn's updates | Brazilians Vitor and Rodrigo w/o O2 (Portuguese) | Pepe Andrés Blanco (Spanish) | Mark Inglis' Legs on Everest | News on Andalucia Everest (Spanish)| Carlos Garranzo's UPCT expedition (Spanish)| Bill Driggs & Anne Parmenter's Aspen Aerogels team | Northern Ireland-England | Terres de l’Ebre (Catalan) | Comarques Gironines | Adventure Peaks| Scott on Everest| Everest Peace Project| DCXP | Project Himalaya | S. Woolums' Adventures Int’l | Abramov’s 7 Summits Club | Harry Kikstra’s 7 Summits | Thomas Weber’s SightOnEverest | Noel Hannah | World Wide Vikings | Lorenzo Gariano’s blog| Turkish Everest expedition | News on Bahrainis - The Gulf Times | Dr. Ken Stalter’s Climb for Child Leukemia | Malaysian Treverest website | Spanish Castilla-La Mancha expedition

Links to teams on Everest South:
Polish-Russian Traverse (Polish) | Martyna Wojciechowska (Polish) | Khoo Swee Chiow | Malaysia/Singapore EverestFriendship | Paul and Fiona Adler | South Africans | Schools around the world | John Turner | Will Cross | India’s BSF | Romeo Garduce’s GMA 7 expedition blog | National Philippines FPMEE team | News on the Philippine National team in Studio23 TV | Mallorca a Dalt de Tot | Alpine Ascents | Jagged Globe | Dr. Botha | Mark Squirrel | Adventure Consultants | IMG | Mountain Link| Kari Kobler's team updates(German)| BaseCampMD

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