Chad Kellogg going up Lhotse Wall to Camp 3 (via CONTACT 5)
Image by Chad Kellogg courtesy Chad Kellogg, SOURCE
Chad did an Everest speed attempt in 2011 but got stuck in traffic jams.
Back in 2005. Speeding the Khumbu Express.
In 2006 Patricio became the first South American to summit Everest w/o supplementary oxygen.
ExplorersWeb special: Mount Everest speed records

Posted: May 01, 2012 03:23 pm EDT
(AdventureStats) There's chatter in Everest camps about the upcoming speed attempts.

The record up for grabs is 21 years old, set by French climber Marc Batard: Basecamp to summit without supplementary oxygen in 22 hours and 29 minutes.

Here is an AdventureStats special on the occasion.

Kellogg's algorithm

Chad Kellogg is back on Everest for another go at the speed record.

Getting most of his gear stolen in Namche last month Chad had a rough start but is now on track. April 23 the climber made a carry from BC to C2 in 4 hours. Five days later he lugged 25 lbs to C3 in 3 hours from C2.

Read Chad's latest updates at www.explorersweb.com/kellogg5 including his detailed strategy and 'Everest Climbing Algorithm':

Total Distance + Total Elevation Gain/Loss + Available Oxygen Start/End + Weather (wind,snow etc) + Temperature + Route Conditions + Hydration + Caloric Intake Per Hour + Weight of Equipment + Weight of Pack + Traffic = Total Duration of Climb

Ueli's Khumbu boot camp

During the past weeks speed climber Ueli Steck has been warming up with fast ascents on lower peaks around the Khumbu valley but he has yet to confirm his Everest plans.

According to his website on April 20 Ueli went to Everest Camp 2 and recently summited Ama Dablam (April 29).

Patricio's "Everest en 1 Dia"

Ecuadorian Patricio Tisalema left home last week for a shot at climbing Everest in one day (alpine style) from the north side. Fairly unknown Tisalema is no rookie: In 2006 Patricio became the first South American to summit Everest w/o supplementary oxygen.

The Wild West of Everest Speed Records

Everest speed records have a checkered history with accusations of cheating, arrests and government intervention. Read a great summary here.

Standing Everest speed records:

Oct 5, 1990, Marc Batard (no O2): 22 hrs 29 min
Oct 17, 1998, Kaji Sherpa (with O2*): 20 hrs 24 min
May 21, 2000, Babu Chiri Sherpa (with O2): 16 hrs 56 min
May 22, 2003, Pemba Dorje Sherpa (with O2): 12 hrs and 45 min
May 25, 2003, Lhakpa Gelu Sherpa (with O2): 10 hrs 56 min
May 21, 2004, Pemba Dorjie Sherpa (with O2): 8 hrs 10 min

* Kaji (Kazi) Sherpa claims no O2 to be confirmed.

(Note! Christian Stangl's lonely speed climb on Everest North Ridge started at C3 and is thus not complete.)

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