"Our team made the peak," reported Hakan Kocakulak, supporting the Turkish team from home. "All of the team members with 3 Sherpas have reached the summit by the time of 5AM. Now, we are waiting for them to return safely." Image of members waving farewell to their mates before going for the summit in ABC, courtesy of the Turkish team (click to enlarge).
Garrett sent live images, text and a short panoramic video recorded on the summit. All multimedia messages were posted on the expeditions website straight from the death zone! It's the highest transmission ever using lightweight gear weighing below 1kg. Image of MountainLink's summit yesterday, courtesy of the expedition outfitter. (Click to enlarge).
Paul and Fiona are currently at the South Col (Camp 4), getting ready to attempt the summit tonight. The couple slept with O2 already in C3 - as seen in the image. Image courtesy of the Adlers (click to enlarge).
A number of South side climbers are currently at C4, getting ready for a summit bid tonight. Image of tents at the South Col courtesy of Paul and Fiona Adler (click to enlarge).
"Yesterday we had our last EBC baseball game lots of fun with teammates from IMG, HRA medical clinic, Mountain Link, Polish, Indian Army, BBC and other journalists, and of course some Sherpa sluggers," reported Dr. Luanne. Image of the game courtesy of BaseCampMD.
Everest wrap-up: Casualties, summit videos, the 4th Filipino, more summit pushes and more traverses
Posted: May 22, 2006 02:30 pm EDT
(MountEverest.net) Teams are reporting on climbers perishing almost on a daily basis now. The latest confirmed is that of French Jacques-Hugues Letrange, while Tomas Olsson's body was found last weekend.
More fatalities have been mentioned, without details. Apparently, climbers on the mountain say they don't want to upset the families. Moreover, BC Clinic staff say theyve never seen so many frostbite injuries...and the season is far from over.
British Army West ridge team: Dangerous Hornbein Couloir forces the team back
On Sunday morning John Doyle, Paul Chiddle, Guy Homan and Frankie Francis were climbing the Hornbein Couloir en route to the summit of Mount Everest. About 200 meters into the Couloir, John and his team encountered 'wind slab' - a hard crust of snow which sits on a much softer layer, thus resulting in high avalanche risk, so that the team retreated to C4."
"After receiving John's report, Dave Bunting ordered all the teams off the mountain. They are currently reconvening at Tilman's Camp where Dave will discuss the situation with his colleagues.
Jacques-Hugues Letrange lost on Everest
Jacques-Hugues Letrange perished on the way down from Everest's summit. The French mountaineer had climbed Everest from its North side with his wife Caroline. Read more in a previous story published on MountEverest.net.
Everestmax: Members going down
Dom, Jamie, Andrew and Sarah summited on Sunday along with Sherpas Karma and Tsering. They are expected back in ABC today. All other team members are already down. Seb, Chris, Phil and Pauline also summited last week.
Harry Kikstra: Summits, Fatalities and Dale
7Summits/7Summits-club team has placed 16 members on the summit (read previous story on MountEverest.net). However, Harry also remarked the horribly large number of fatalities this year:
Though everybody remembers 1996 as the 'Everest disaster', 2006 is proving to be worse. Many people have died this season, while the weather has been quite favorable. Yesterday morning we heard that our friend Vitor Negrete from Brazil died. He had summited without oxygen, but got into trouble on the way down. Sherpas got him back in a tent in high camp (8300m) but he did not survive the night.
More fatalities will be announced in the next days, we want to give families a chance to get informed, but so far we count 10 or 11 dead climbers for 2006, while many people have not even started their summit bid. Too many don't take Everest seriously and notable is that quite a few fatalities are from low-cost, budget expeditions, without proper Sherpa support.
One guy who beat the odds was Dale Abenojar. You will have read about him on my blogs and many Philippine news agencies and followers have asked me about him, so here is the latest: On 12th May I saw him going up with a Sherpa. He was dress in full down suit (at 6500m!) and going very slowly. On May 18, I saw him, again on a yak, going down, just below middle camp. I was going up, but while passing he said: 'Harry, I summited May 15 and lost one toe. So the good thing is that he is still alive and can return to his wife and children ( I had given him less than 50% survival chance, but Everest can be strange in her decisions...). Whether he actually summited he should prove himself, I have no further info about that...
Turkish: Second summit attempt on but it was not easy
Serhan, Bora, Burçak, Meltem, Suna and Mustafa have launched a summit push the second attempt after some other members summited last week. But the team had to solve a few problems before they were ready for a second try.
For the second attempt, there were many other things we had to deal with. The most important: Our Sherpas didnt accept going to the summit for a second time, reported the team.
For about a day and a half, we observed other expeditions negotiating and bargaining with other Sherpas. Just as we had come to an agreement with another teams Sherpas, our Sherpas said they were re-considering our offer and wanted to talk to us. Finally, we agreed with Sherpas Lakpha, Lakhpa and Lama from our old team.
Then we found out that we didnt have enough bottles left for the summit. Therefore, we once again had to ask other expeditions for spare oxygen bottles. With a little bit of bargaining we solved that problem too."
The weather forecast predict a good weather window for May 24 and May 25. Surely its early for a definite date, but it seems like were aiming for the top of the world in about 7 days."
Simone Moro: Some explanations ahead
"After the quick descent from the summit of Everest in only 5 hours with a 12 kg backpack, Simone departed today from North side's ABC," reported his home team. "He is on his way to Chinese BC - 20 kilometres down the moraine in his high altitude dress, including his double boots. At BC he will meet the liaison officers, and with them he will try to regulate his presence in Tibet diplomatically."
Everest Peace Project: Summit Video
Everest Peace Project members not only summited, but also managed a stunning video of their arrival at the summit. Check it out on ExplorersWebs latest Week-in-Review.
Ken Stalter (Summit Climb): Turn back at C3 two members frostbitten
Ken called again and asked that information about his teammates be posted for their families and friends to see:
Colin summited the mountain on May 18 and has frostbite on his left hand. Phil is in ABC and has frost nip on his right hand, but told Ken he has "had worse." Andrew is at ABC and is disappointed he didn't get to the summit. He is feeling strong and debating a second attempt. Hector also summited on May 18. Ken himself turned back from C3 due to high winds.
Mountain link: Summit proof reported LIVE
Mountain Link members were the only ones to summit Everest from its South side on Sunday, in fairly high wind conditions. Garrett Madison, Michael Lindaas, and Tap and Heidi Richards, plus five Sherpas reached the top. Back at the South Col that day, they posted images, texts and a video straight onto the expeditions website. Read more in a previous story published on MountEverest.net earlier today.
Paul and Fiona: C4 going for the summit tonight
Paul and Fiona are currently at the South Col (Camp 4), getting ready to attempt the summit tonight. As my pace is slower than Paul's, we're planning for Mingma and I to leave sometime between 8pm and 9pm tonight, while Dasona and Paul will probably leave sometime between 10pm and 11pm, reported Fiona. If all the stars align, we might hit the summit at the same time, but in reality, Paul will probably pass me somewhere along the way - it will probably be too cold for him to slow down for long.
"Otherwise, I'm worried about being too slow and having to turn around before we reach the summit. After the 1996 disaster almost everyone will be making sure they are heading down by midday-early afternoon to ensure they're back at camp while it's still light. I'm certainly not known for my speed and would be disappointed if I was traveling well but couldn't make it in time. (But not disappointed enough to keep plugging on regardless.)
As for other IMG members, Dave, Jim, and Dan were in C2 yesterday, according to IMG. Dennis is climbing with Paul and Fiona, the trio being supported by Sherpas Dasona, Mingma Ongel, and Phinjo. The weather is looking decent and everyone is on track for summit bids. Brenda and Sophia made it down to BC, whilst John, JF, Walter, Karl, and Markus headed down the trail on Saturday.
Malaysian-Singapore Friendship: Two days in C4 bid tonight rescue and traverses
Malaysian Vincent Loo and Singaporean Koo Swee Chiow attempted a summit bid from C4 on Sunday, but tough weather conditions turned tem back. They are still in C4, waiting for the night in order to give the summit another try. Although it is not confirmed, Vincent reported yesterday on Koo probably using O2, since two days is too long a time to remain at the South Col without supplementary O2.
There are people from Camp 3 coming up to Camp 4 today - and there will be others with us tonight (going) to the summit, reported Vincent. I have observed that there are people coming over to the Nepal side from China after summiting. I see one guy descending now but I can't tell who it is.
There is one rescue mission on to bring a Korean who is suffering very badly from Mountain Sickness. He ascends from the Tibetan border and the Chinese government has agreed to allow a Nepalese Army helicopter to cross the border so that the rescue can be executed.
ACs Team Canada: At the South Col
Couldnt have asked for a better day: Perfect conditions, no wind to speak of, reported Steve from C4 earlier today. Well be checking on the latest forecasts and looking out the tent door to see when we will go for the summit. Maybe it will be tonight, or maybe the next.
BaseCampMD: BC turning into a ghost town more frostbites than ever
The last few South side 2006 Everest hopefuls are up at Camps 3 and 4 now, and we are watching EBC dissolve into a ghost town, reported Dr. Luanne.
Every night has been a party, congratulating some for their summits and others just for surviving their experience here.
"This morning we saw 7 patients off in a Nepali army heli that landed in EBC most of them with frostbite (none of us remember a year when we have seen so much cold injury!) including our Korean patient who is headed home. The weather was dicey, so we were all relieved to see the chopper take off safely.
Links to teams on Everest North:
UK Army 's West ridge expedition | Ecuadorians w/o Limits (Spanish)| Brazilians Vitor and Rodrigo w/o O2 (Portuguese) | Bill Driggs & Anne Parmenter's Aspen Aerogels team | Adventure Peaks| Scott on Everest| Everest Peace Project| DCXP | Project Himalaya | S. Woolums' Adventures Intl | Abramovs 7 Summits Club | Harry Kikstras 7 Summits | Thomas Webers SightOnEverest | News on Bahrainis - The Gulf Times
Links to teams on Everest South:
Khoo Swee Chiow | Malaysia/Singapore EverestFriendship | Paul and Fiona Adler | South Africans | John Turner | Will Cross | Alpine Ascents | Adventure Consultants | Mountain Link | BaseCampMD | Simone Moro