Interview: Patricio Tisalema about speed-climbing Everest, "I will ask for permission to pass"
Posted: May 11, 2012 12:54 am EDT (HumanEdgeTech/Tom Sjogren) Last week ExplorersWeb ran a special about the upcoming Mount Everest speed records.
Chad Kellogg has his 'Everest Climbing Algorithm', Ueli Steck has been warming up around the Khumbu valley and Ecuadorian Patricio Tisalema will try to climb Everest in one day (alpine style) from the north side.
Fairly unknown Tisalema is no rookie: In 2006 Patricio became the first South American to summit Everest w/o supplementary oxygen. Yesterday Explorersweb caught up over Skype with Patricio 'Pato' Tisalema in Tibet.
Exweb: Hey Pato, where are you - it's midnight in Tibet?
Pato: Right now in Nyalam and going to Everest BC tomorrow. At an internet cafe - they will be kicking me out soon :)
Exweb: You are arriving in BC May 10th - very late for a summit push especially without oxygen - what is your plan?
Pato: I'm already very well acclimatized. Have been sleeping at 5000 - 6000 meter every weekend for the last month. Mostly at Chimorazo, the highest mountain in Ecuador at 6310 meter.
It was always easy for me to go on altitude. Last year I did Shisha Pangma (fore summit) direct from BC without acclimatization.
Exweb: How many 8000ers have you climbed now?
Pato: Cho Oyu, Everest without oxygen in 2006, Manaslu in 2010 and Shisha (fore summit) in 2011.
Exweb: You have a team mate?
Pato: Yes Rafael Martínez. He is my trainer and we also climbed Manaslu and Shisha together. He will go up Everest now but slower.
Exweb: Where does your speed attempt start and when?
Pato: Will start from ABC and hope to have a go in 2 weeks.
Exweb: What will you do if there is traffic jam on the ladders?
Pato: I will just ask permission to pass. People see I'm moving very fast so they are always nice and let me go ahead.
Exweb: Let's talk later - have a good night.
Pato: Good Night!
Video from 2006 Everest without oxygen
Ecuadorian Patricio Tisalema (35) summited Everest from its north side, w/o supplementary O2 or Sherpa support on May 16, 2006. He was sharing permit with other teams and independent climbers on Monterosa Treks’ permits.
The record up for grabs is 21 years old, set by French climber Marc Batard: Basecamp to summit without supplementary oxygen in 22 hours and 29 minutes (Kaji Sherpa remains unverified).