Done! The Italian became the 27th climber in the world to complete al the 14, 8000ers, and the 16th to do so without supplementary oxygen.
Image by Patrizia
To make sure he was bagging the real top, Mario Panzeri called from the ridge to another Himalayan knight: Italian Gnaro Mondinelli (pic). "Go left after the ridge and see three peaks, the third one is the top," Silvio Mondinelli told him, Montagna reports.
Dhaula: Mario Panzeri breaks 14 eight thousanders no oxygen
Posted: May 18, 2012 01:08 am EDT
(Newsdesk) This time it worked. In their third attempt on the summit, the Italians made the top of Dhalagiri, Montagna reported.
"I'm on top! I'm on top! Cimaaaa" cried out Mario Panzeri from the summit of Dhaulagiri, his final 8000er.
Wanting to be sure he was headed for the real top, Panzeri reportedly called home from high up and asked for Gnaro. "Go left after the ridge and see three peaks, the third one is the top," Silvio Mondinelli told him after he was tracked down on the mobile. The call was cut off, but Panzeri found his way after that.
The climb took seventeen hours in cold winds and the men didn't make the top until 6 pm. With them was Dawa Sherpa and two Czech climbers.
Descending in the dark, Mario Panzeri and Giampaolo Corona planned to sleep in C3.
Many others reportedly gave up on the ridge at 7,500 meters, turned back by the icy gale. Marco Confortola, whose fingers were amputated after frostbite he suffered on K2 in 2008 reportedly gave up his ascent at that altitude due to cold feet.
With his success, Panzeri is joining a still select group of men (and two women). The Italian became the 27th climber in the world to complete al the 14, 8000ers, and only the 16th to do so without supplementary oxygen.