14, 8000er summiteer Andrew Lock is out to bag Everest again, without oxygen this time.
Image by Andrew Lock courtesy Andrew Lock, SOURCE
Weather woes on Everest
Posted: May 20, 2012 04:25 pm EDT
(Newsdesk) The weather has been playing foul over the weekend with winds spiking yesterday high up on Everest. Adventure Consultants reported they were holding their second summit push at the south col and the few climbers who ventured up quickly turned back.
Initial summit waves in fickle weather often cause tumultuous situations on the mountain. Even with the infrastructure, at 29,029 feet/8,848 m Mount Everest remains a difficult ascent.
Summits were reported on the north side by Abramov's teams. American Bill Burke and Aussie Andrew Lock (both without oxygen) reported hard going though in rough winds. Lock will give it another shot with a window forecasts show could open May 25th.
Expeditions with RSS feeds can be followed in the links streams at the Pythom app and at ExplorersWeb. Alan Arnette (world news) compiles extensive summaries.
Overview of all expeditions with links to homepages can be found here.
From the mailbox:
Jacques Puyo (France) and Jangbu Sherpa (Nepal) summit Mt. Everest!!
Hi, this is Dan Mazur, the SummitClimb Everest Tibet leader, calling in a dispatch for the 20th of May. I'm calling from Advanced Basecamp.
On the 19th of May we had a busy day. We were in camp 2 in the morning and packed up to go, hiking up the hill. A large team next to us decided to pack up and go down the mountain. They had heard a bad weather forecast, so
everyone on that team went down, including all of their staff. We decided that we would go with them because it would be the wise, prudent and conservative thing to do.
We've heard there is supposed to be a good weather window on the 24th and we hope to have some assistance in verifying that with wind speeds, altitude,
Jan, Beow, Tenji, Josette, Dan, Pasang and Gyalje went down to the North Col and eventually basecamp. However, Jacques decided he wanted to continue
going up. Jangbu joined him and we received a call on the radio this morning that was relayed from Gyalje on the North Col that they had reached the summit! It was hard to understand the call because of the wind speed and it seems like Jangbu seems to have laryngitis and has lost his voice. But it sounds like they reached the summit, are doing OK and on their way down.
We'll have more updates for you as they come in. Thank you very much for following our expedition. Bye, bye.
Seven climbers of 7 Summits Club expedition reached the summit of Everest. It happened at about 5.30 Tibetan time. First from Tibet side. Guide Alexandr Abramov (4th ascent of Mount Everest), Guide Sergei Larin(4th ascent of Mount Everest),
Ivan Dusharin (65 уеars, 3rd time),
Fyodor Konyukhov (60, 2-nd time),
Maxim Shakirov (2-nd time),
Ludmila Korobeshko (2-nd time),
Aznor Hajiyev (1 - s ascent, the first Ingush – north Caucasusmountain people).
They were with seven Sherpas.
Also, two climbers from Donetsk (Ukraine) went with them in the group.
Today, at 8 AM the second group of 7 Summits Club expedition reached the summit of Everest.
6 members and 6 Sherpas. Weather was good. Not so mush snow and not so strong wind. Joe Pratt and guide Noel Hanna (5th ascent of Mount Everest) were the first, followed closely by 2 climbers: Leila Albogachieva and Vladimir Korenkov(2-nd time)
(team of Ingushetia).
Guide Sergey Bogomolov (He has 13 eight thousand meter peaks) and Igor Kadochin reached the summit after about half an hour. Now they are going down on 8300. We are waiting for them at the camp ABC.
Total during 2 days 19 and 20 May:
13 members and 13 Sherpas of "7 Summits club" reached Summit of Everest.
Ms.Tamae Watanabe break her own record:
Everest North side:
Asian Trekking's International Everest Exp.2012 leader Ms.Tamae Watanabe (73 yrs) of Japan and Noriyuki Muraguchi from Japan with climbing Sherpas, Mingma Sherpa, Phura Nuru Sherpa and Phurba Sherpa left for the summit from camp 3 (8300m) at 9pm. The team successfully summited at 7:00am on the 19th of May. After summit, they decent down to Camp 3 (8300m) at 3 pm and after resting an hour, they further decent down
to Camp 2 (7700m) for night stop. For update information, please visit:
Ms.Tamae Watanabe who held the record of the oldest woman to summit Mt.Everest, breaks her own record after 10 years at the age of 73. She had summitted
Mt.Everest in 2002 at the age of 63.
Everest South side:
Asian Trekking's Eco Everest Expedition 2012, Sirdar Naga Dorje Sherpa is leading the 1st summit group of members Gia Tortladze from Georgia,
Dr. Naim Logic from Bosnia Herzegovina, Kapil from India, Paul Thelen and Dr. Eberhard Schaaf from Germany, Brothers Jan Morava from Canada
and Vit Morava from the Czech Republic. Together with 10 Sherpas, the 18 man team will start climbing to the summit tonight from camp 4South Col
(7950m) at 9 pm. Kapil from India summitted at 9:45 am with Nima Kancha Sherpa
Dr. Naim Logic from Bosnia-Herzegovina summitted at 9:55 am with Nima Kanchha Sherpa and Aarita Sherpa
Georgian Parliamentarian and President of International Mountaineers Asssociation Gia Tortladze summited this morning at 11:05am with Kami Tshering Sherpa. This is Gia’s 3rd time on the top of Mt. Everest and the 9th summit on an 8000m peak.
Dr.Eberhard Schaaf summitted at 11:05 am with Pasang Temba and Pemba Sherpa. Jan Morava summitted at 1 pm with Pasang Tharke Sherpa Vit Morava summitted at 1 pm with Pasang Rita Sherpa.